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Old 10-24-2014, 10:24 AM   #61
H311RA151N
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Originally Posted by 2winRB25 View Post
Did you buy that carburetor for this truck?
Yeah. It will be here today. So I will be able to try it out.

Ordered it yesterday, get it with UPS ground shipping today. First time I have ever bought from Speedway Motors but it isn't going to be the last. I got some other shit too I didn't say anything about but it will make a big difference in the bay.
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:52 PM   #62
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If I were 6'8" instead of 5'8" it would make this thing a lot easier to work on.


Got the new valve cover gaskets on. The old ones were cork. Which sucked.


I like the way the new ones kinda clip onto the valve covers so they are easy as can be to install.


I also got rid of some unnecessary stuff in the bay. Like cruise control, the jack tie downs, and windshield washer tank. Which also got rid of my coolant reservoir but I will be adding a large universal one here soon. Hopefully I can find one that has a gallon capacity.

Showing how the EGR system was deleted. This is the carburetor spacer or plate that has been welded.




Some rust like build up on the rocker arms. It's weird. It's not really rust although it's starting to rust the rocker arms. I took a vacuum and a Dremel and cleaned the hell out of them just to be safe. There isn't any coolant in the oil or anything like that so I don't know what's up.







How the valve cover gaskets go in.




You cannot tell a whole lot but the bay is somewhat cleaner than it was since I deleted some things. I have a bunch of wire loom coming in today so we will see how much of a difference that will make. I got a battery box too.




Stupid cork gaskets.

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Old 10-24-2014, 06:29 PM   #63
wildBill83
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So you ended up going aftermarket on the carb after all eh?

I've got my S10 Blazer tore down to short block right now and I'm debating on pulling the block and reworking the motor and inspecting the crank. I've been heart broken though because all of my tools were stolen so now I'm starting from scratch and it's going to put my CB7 plans on hold ... yet again.

When you put the vacuum gauge on what did it read at idle and under acceleration?
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:01 PM   #64
H311RA151N
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So you ended up going aftermarket on the carb after all eh?

I've got my S10 Blazer tore down to short block right now and I'm debating on pulling the block and reworking the motor and inspecting the crank. I've been heart broken though because all of my tools were stolen so now I'm starting from scratch and it's going to put my CB7 plans on hold ... yet again.

When you put the vacuum gauge on what did it read at idle and under acceleration?
Yeah. I didn't make a good call in trying to rebuild the old one. Sank around $100 in it I think.

I got the carb today, put it on but didn't adjust it at all yet. My father came over just in time for me to finish it up. It immediately ran better. A quick jab from any RPM and it revs right up. I took it out on the road real quick and it lit the tires up in 2nd when I romped it. So it's running a lot better and I'm so glad it isn't something else.

Tomorrow I'm taking it to my Dads and he's going to show me how to tune a carburetor that isn't fucked up.

I would be super pissed if someone stole my tools. I'm sorry to hear that though man. I hate thieves almost as much as I hate snitches.

Shit I received today from Speedway.



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Old 10-25-2014, 01:19 PM   #65
H311RA151N
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Have not tuned the carb yet. Going to wait until I get new fuel in the tank as the current fuel is a mix between 1 month to 6 weeks old fuel and 4 months old fuel.

I had to quit with the wire loom today. The tips of my fingers are raw. What I have done isn't finished but most of the wires for the Duraspark II are loomed. I have so many more wires to loom it's not even funny.

Spark plug wires are a mess. I have random vacuum lines going all over the place. In order to start the truck I have to leave them on until I go and get vacuum caps.





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Old 10-25-2014, 10:35 PM   #66
2winRB25
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Originally Posted by H311RA151N View Post
Have not tuned the carb yet. Going to wait until I get new fuel in the tank as the current fuel is a mix between 1 month to 6 weeks old fuel and 4 months old fuel.

I had to quit with the wire loom today. The tips of my fingers are raw. What I have done isn't finished but most of the wires for the Duraspark II are loomed. I have so many more wires to loom it's not even funny.

Spark plug wires are a mess. I have random vacuum lines going all over the place. In order to start the truck I have to leave them on until I go and get vacuum caps.




It's still dirty but its looking better all the time. I give it a month until its looking alot better inside and out. And why is the radiator overflow hose in a knot?
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:18 PM   #67
H311RA151N
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It's still dirty but its looking better all the time. I give it a month until its looking alot better inside and out. And why is the radiator overflow hose in a knot?
So I can run it long enough to move it without it pissing coolant everywhere. I don't have a coolant tank yet but I'm going to order one here soon.

Every hose and vacuum line in the bay will be replaced. All of them are old and not in the best shape.
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:38 AM   #68
2winRB25
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Whats next? I heard you got the inside cleaned up. Is it redneck ready yet? lol
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:50 AM   #69
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Whats next? I heard you got the inside cleaned up. Is it redneck ready yet? lol
-Felpro Timing Cover Gasket Set
-Gates Water Pump
-Fel Pro Water Pump Gasket
-SKF Front Crank Seal
-Spectra Heater Core
-Precision Electric Fuel Pump Hanger Assembly A30250
-QuickCar Racing Products 57-009 Battery Cable Kit
-Motorcraft Starter Solenoid
-Forecast Fuel Filter
-Kat's 11606 600 Watt 38mm Frost Plug Heater


Pulling the front of the engine off. Replacing water pump, timing chain set, setting the timing at 0* instead of the factory -4*. Replacing all the gaskets and seals I can while I'm there.

While the accessory brackets and accessories are off I'm paining those because they look like crap currently. New belts as well. I'm supposed to have two alternator belts and I only have one and it's cracked all over.

Rebuilding the power steering pump while it's off as well.

Installing a universal Dorman coolant overflow tank.

Every hose and vacuum line in the bay is going to be replaced.

There is much more to do after all of that but that's the next "step" if you will.

It's almost ready to be on the road. Not far off.
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Old 10-28-2014, 03:46 PM   #70
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A couple 4K revs after carb tuning.

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Old 10-29-2014, 10:23 PM   #71
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Choke cable routed and installed. Turned out perfect. When the choke is all the way open the knob pushes back about 1/4" so you know its all the way open. Ran the knob to a different location than I originally planned at the last moment. Idle when choked still needs to be adjusted on the carb. I like a high idle at choke and it helps with starting.



Choke cable location.



Choke cable routed.




Rear differential.



Bolts removed.



Nasty old gear oil. Unknown weight.



Cover off.



This fill plug gave me hell...



Cover cleaned off a little.



Threw some paint on it.



Differential cover back on, Fel Pro gasket with Permetex grey RTV on both sides. Cover bolts torqued down to 40ftlbs. Tag will be relocated once the RTV is fully set up. I forgot it until the last moment. It will go up on one of the top bolts.

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Old 10-29-2014, 10:59 PM   #72
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Looking good Josh. Looks like your rear dif had water in it eh? I'll be updating my S10 thread sometime this week. You got me beat though, I'm still working on finding a machine shop to bore my v6 block .030 over. Until I get my V8 I'm going to run a slightly modified V6.
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Old 10-29-2014, 11:10 PM   #73
H311RA151N
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Looking good Josh. Looks like your rear dif had water in it eh? I'll be updating my S10 thread sometime this week. You got me beat though, I'm still working on finding a machine shop to bore my v6 block .030 over. Until I get my V8 I'm going to run a slightly modified V6.
Hey, thanks man!

I would say it was a bit wet, yes.

Looking forward to your S10 update, those 4.3l's can run really well when they are set up properly. My uncle had a cammed 4.3 years ago. Sounded like a small block and had quite a bit of power as well.
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Old 10-30-2014, 03:06 PM   #74
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Idk why I missed this last night. I never checked the vent on the rear end. Like a dumb ass.

The vent tube orifice and the hose was clogged. I have a temp hose on the now cleared orifice for moving the truck around where I need it to be until I get to the store to buy hose and vacuum line.

So this is why it had water in the rear end.





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-Youíll never be as lazy as whoever named the fireplace.
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Old 10-30-2014, 03:46 PM   #75
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Filled the front diff with gear oil. Valvoline 80w90. It was 1.25 quarts low... I have to keep an eye on this thing. If it doesn't leak a lot I'm going to leave it and just add it as it needs it this winter because it's so easy to add gear oil.


On another note... I have to pull the transfer case because I don't trust it. I wanted to wait and do it in the spring but it's not sounding too healthy. $375 to rebuild it with fluid included.

It's whining and the "gears" if you will are not very defined. Neutral (not that I need it) is hard to find.

Once I engaged it after adding front diff fluid just to get the front diff all lubricated it started whining even louder. So it's getting rebuilt.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borg-Warner-...item3a98e78b38
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Old 10-30-2014, 08:05 PM   #76
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Going to pick one of these up tomorrow. I'm going to see which of the three this guy has is the best and purchase it.

http://joplin.craigslist.org/pts/4725904815.html
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Old 11-01-2014, 09:23 PM   #77
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I could have a catastrophic problem on my hands.

The rear pinion yoke has a ton of play in it. It looks as if it's about to fall out of the rear end. I never noticed it and it never made any noise. I'm hoping the bolt just backed off and I can tighten it up. Apparently it's not uncommon with the 10.25" and heavy towing.
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Old 11-02-2014, 05:56 PM   #78
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If your rear pinion goes out what is your plan? Axle upgrade or a rebuild?
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:05 PM   #79
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If your rear pinion goes out what is your plan? Axle upgrade or a rebuild?
Upgrade to a 10.50" if I can find one. But I have done a bunch of reading and it most likely just backed the bolt out. If it will tighten up most of the way but I'm still not happy with it then it should make it through the winter and I will decide what I want to do in the Spring.

I would be glad if it would just tighten up. I would leave it as the rear end is solid other than the pinion being loose.
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:14 PM   #80
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My temporary 10" air cleaner. The engine spends most of it's time at 25% throttle or less and at less than 2200RPM. So the flow of this air cleaner will be enough for now.

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