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Old 12-16-2013, 05:12 PM   #101
sepulveda87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
Was your car originally an automatic?
no
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Old 02-11-2015, 02:23 PM   #102
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Anyone figure out the shift lock issue yet?

This does not work. (As stated by others)

Quote:
Auto Tranny, Using the Prelude auto tranny and TCU:
Courtsey of JWise1203:

To make the shift lock operate properly you will need to run a wire from the shifter position switch to the tranny controller. On the left side of the shifter there is a box with about 5/6 wires going into it. This is the shifter position switch. You need to tap into the GRN/WHT wire and run it back to pin A7 on the TCM. Plug A is the bigger of the 2 plugs.

And unfortunately this also does not work. All I got was a blinking D4

Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgGT View Post
^ For the sake of future readers not having to search around: the solution was to go to the TCU plugs. Cut the GRN/WHT and WHT/GRN wires or de-pin them from the TCU, then splice them together on the harness side (i.e. don't make a jumper from one TCU plug to the other). No running of wire from the shifter position switch to TCU pin A7. I think this really needs to be added to that section regarding using the automatic transmission and TCU.

However after rereading it to post this, Im even more confused. I spliced the GRN/WHT wire to the WHT/GRN wire on plug A chassis side (so i cut them and tied them together)

"dont make a jumper from one tcu plug to the other"

ok.. so I went and looked again a second ago and both A & B have GRN/WHT and WHT/GRN..

Can you elaborate please cyborg

Thanks
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:19 PM   #103
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It's been a little over two years since I've had my car, and I didn't take pictures. I'm starting to doubt myself and think I had both of those wiring mods done at the same time. What year is your car? Mine was a '92; I have the factory service manual for that year, so I can double-check the schematics, but I remember the wires going into the TCU all being different colors. I took notes on paper way back, so I'll look around and see if I still have them; maybe I wrote down what I did to work.

*ED. - notes found; see my next post
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Last edited by CyborgGT; 02-12-2015 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 02-12-2015, 07:12 PM   #104
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here you go:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...085#post703946

there are three wiring issues to look out while doing the 5spd swap... if you dont have to deal with actual vehicle inspections, you could get away without hooking up the neutral safety switch, but its usually recommended that you do. but anyway, heres what you need to deal with:

#1. making the car think that the shifter is in park
when you removed the auto shifter, u disconnected a big grey plug. snip the black and green/white wires and connect them together. in the picture, i had cut the matching reverse harness off of the shifter, leaving enough wire to splice to.

#2. hooking up the reverse lights
on top of the tranny is a reverse lights switch, it has a yellow and a green/black wire. they need to be connected directly to the wires of the same color on the shifter connector. agian, in the picture you can see two black wires coming from the right gegtting spliced in. they run through a hole in the firewall and connect to the wires on top of the transmission.

#3. neutral safety switch
there was a brown 2-pin connector that went to the old shifter. the easy way to do it is cut the connector off and splice the two thick wires together (solder them!). or if you need to do it the "right" way to pass inspection, follow the diagram below. the "clutch interlock switch" is the switch that gets pressed when the pedal is put all the way to the floor, it has a yellow 2 pin connector. wire colors are indicated in the diagram.



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Old 02-12-2015, 08:31 PM   #105
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Erik, are you running a pure automatic setup or an auto-to-manual conversion?

At any rate, I found that I had adjusted the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual. For a full automatic-to-automatic H22 car, this is what I did. The "X" marks the spots where I cut the wires (TCU pins A3 and A18) and mated them before ever reaching the TCU:

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Last edited by CyborgGT; 02-12-2015 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:31 PM   #106
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This is how I did mine ages ago. As a matter of fact, every swap I have done has followed cp [mike]'s method. All have been worry free.
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:14 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgGT View Post
It's been a little over two years since I've had my car, and I didn't take pictures. I'm starting to doubt myself and think I had both of those wiring mods done at the same time. What year is your car? Mine was a '92; I have the factory service manual for that year, so I can double-check the schematics, but I remember the wires going into the TCU all being different colors. I took notes on paper way back, so I'll look around and see if I still have them; maybe I wrote down what I did to work.

*ED. - notes found; see my next post
Awesome thank you, yes a 92, p0f/p0n(Straight up auto from accord sir coupe and its ecu/tcu) ...reading now, will reread in the AM and see whats up, i got hasty and just cut them instead of depinning and testing it..im glad i left myself just enough slack..i ziptied things for now... and man it rips. im so pleased. thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgGT View Post
Erik, are you running a pure automatic setup or an auto-to-manual conversion?

At any rate, I found that I had adjusted the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual. For a full automatic-to-automatic H22 car, this is what I did. The "X" marks the spots where I cut the wires (TCU pins A3 and A18) and mated them before ever reaching the TCU:

Ok, Im gonna double check tomorrow. What TCU did you have? Im also a little perplexed as my engine came with a bolt instead of Oil pressure switch, and as far as I found, the ecu I have isnt supposed to look for one...but it was, that cel make it run super rich, I did the A4 jumper and took care of the only cel I got from the swap
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:55 PM   #108
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I used the Accord's stock TCU, and later a P19 (JDM H22A auto). No change in wiring going from one to the other.
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Old 07-15-2015, 01:48 PM   #109
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Staying In VTEC w/ H2U5 Transmission

I remember reading several times (can't remember where exactly) about people falling out of VTEC using the Accord transmission.

I've confirmed that you can stay in VTEC while using the Accord transmission with an H series motor; a H22a to be more specific.

I've recently finished my H22a swap mated to a H2U5, polished it with a chipped P72, and I had a chance to pluck it and open it up.

My redline is set at 7600, and if I come close to redline before I shift, I can stay in VTEC from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th. This of course is accomplished by speed shifting.

Have fun.
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Old 08-03-2015, 05:28 PM   #110
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Your VTEC engagement point wasn't modified with this chip? I don't think I fell out of VTEC with my automatics (I ran both Accord and Prelude transmissions) either.
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Old 08-21-2017, 07:18 PM   #111
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Puzzling observation

So I had a question that I could use some help with. Now I understand that our cars run an injector box in order to drive the stock injectors using the stock ECU. Assuming someone is using a converted OBD2 engine (such as a late model H22A), Saturated injectors (that do not require a injector box) and an OBD1 ecu from a car not using an injector box why would the car require the wiring for an injector box (the injector box bypass) in order to run?
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Old 10-24-2017, 10:30 PM   #112
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So I just wanted to add on here what I discovered swapping the the H22a. If your vtec solenoid didn’t come with a pressure switch like most JDM H22as. You can bypass the switch by splitting the vtec solenoid wire and have one going to pin a4 and then tap that wire and run the other one to D6. This eliminated the CEL. And the need for the pressure switch or a chipped ECU.
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