F22a1 to f22a6 swap?

[Extacee]

Yeah I took everything apart today on the motor and the intake is just like mine on the f22a1. But yet the block says f22a6 on this new motor. also the pistons where labeled pt3 on the top of them. This is so confusing... I thought the f22a6 pistons should say pt6 on them and the intake should have the 8 holes. It seems like the intake has been changed, but how does that explain the pt3 makes on the pistons. IDK can someone please explain to me whats going on?

I had the same problem with my car. i have an JDM F22A which is equal to a USDM F22A6 and it had an A1 manifold on it. i still have the PT3 ecu on it, i need to upgrade to a PT6 because i am limiting the power on my engine. I ended up swapping manifolds about a month ago and i also wasn't sure what ECU i was running until i had my check engine light come on giving me code 12 (which is for the EGR lifter valve). I cleaned out the EGR valve i had on (which was form the A6 manifold) and it still came up. Just yesterday i changed the EGR valve from the A6 to the A1 and that solved that problem and i figured out that there is two different EGR valves for either the PT6 and The PT3.

So if you do find and buy an A6 manifold and still are using the PT3 use the A1 EGR valve. Now if you get the PT6 make sure the manifold you buy comes with the EGR valve because if you use the EGR meant for the A1 your CEL will give you code 12

Just a little heads up

[Teddy]

thank you Extacee i will make sure i use the right one

[Extacee]

thank you Extacee i will make sure i use the right one

no problemo!

[CB7Man]

All the EGR valves are the same for our accords.
I used a Accord EGR on my H22 swap for a while, but I didnt like the Vacuum layout.
Infact you can swap over Prelude egr valves that have a different connector and it works great!
My H22 EGR is even JDM too!
U just had a bad egr, im running an 93SE (F22A6) EGR valve on my 90EX F22A4 with an A6 Head from a 91SE, Running a 90 LX PT3 ECU. Phew alot of words there lol


To the OP:
The F22A6 requires more maintenance then the rest of the family
It has an oil cooler, while this sounds cool, it sucks from a reliability standpoint. (The more complex it gets the more it breaks)
U now have two more mini hoses to replace, that u MUST replace these are 20 years old and just cant wait to *uck ur day!
Also u know oil filters have that O-ring right? Well this oil cooler is like an oil filter and has one of those O-rings. Ever seen em pop? Not good and 20 years later your odds are pretty high its going to randomly explode.
Then youll need a quart of oil to go a mile!


I was dumb, I only did the hoses for the oil cooler, I nvr thought about the O-Ring. I now have to add oil all the time untill I can figure something out with this leak

[CB7 Sleeper]

Ok, so you have an F22A6, but what looks like an F22A1 intake manifold? Well, then you still would need to source a PT6 ECU because of the cam difference. Otherwise, your F22A6 will not be making the power it should be making and it will not be running the proper way Honda designed it to.

I'd suggest finding a PT6 ECU as well as sourcing either an F22A6 IM, or an H23 IM from the junkyard and utilizing it for it's IAB capabilities. This way you will be running your engine properly as well as making the power potential you would expect from an A6.

[Honda Power]

Is there a way to tell if the cam is for an f22a6 or f22a1 / 4?

[BIGsnorlax]

I havent heard anything either on getting the iab to open up earlier? There is some people on here that dont have the a6 ecu and just hook up the iab with vacuum only? But the butterflies will open up at WOT only.

I've never quite understood how this works. The actual metal diaphragm that actuates the butterfly valves opens when a vacuum is pulled on it. Yes i goofed off and put my mouth on it just to see haha. But what vacuum line would you source to that diaphragm if your "ghetto rigging" it? Its my understanding that you pull more vacuum at lower RPM's and less at higher..... So wouldnt that make the valves all be open at idle? or theyd slowly close as you got on it and got higher into the RPM range thus decreasing the amount of vacuum?

Correct me if I'm wrong... thats just what iv always thought ha

[Cautrell05]

I've never quite understood how this works. The actual metal diaphragm that actuates the butterfly valves opens when a vacuum is pulled on it. Yes i goofed off and put my mouth on it just to see haha. But what vacuum line would you source to that diaphragm if your "ghetto rigging" it? Its my understanding that you pull more vacuum at lower RPM's and less at higher..... So wouldnt that make the valves all be open at idle? or theyd slowly close as you got on it and got higher into the RPM range thus decreasing the amount of vacuum?

Correct me if I'm wrong... thats just what iv always thought ha

Ok from what I have been reading on here the big black box is nothing more than an electrically controlled vac valve for the IAB solenoid. Why couldnt you just use one of these
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/silve...lue-light.aspx.
Replace the light with a vac solenoid from the parts store and off you go. adjustable IAB opening. Should work for vtec too. Granted the pt6 will still be needed for the tune.

Nick

[Teddy]

Is there a way to tell if the cam is for an f22a6 or f22a1 / 4?

there is different # on the a6 cam from the a1,a4 but i don`t know what the # is sorry

[Airhonda92]

Maybe this will help.



IABs are like throttle plates in the intake manifold in each port that open and close to help control intake air flow velocity, to the best of my understanding. Lol, I'm tired and can't really think of how to explain it.

Here is an F22A6 intake manifold diagram. The IAB plate is in between the numbers 17 and 39 in this diagram it looks like.


This one is an H23 IM diagram, and it give you a bit of a closer look at the IAB plate next to numbers 17 and 37 in the box 14.


And here is an actual picture of the IAB plate on the intake manifold.


Hope I helped.

That helped me out a ton, just to chime in on this thread. So I've completed the H23 IM to the F22A1 swap. I have the PT6 ECU installed. I finally see what the hell everyone has talked about as the iab "black box". Here's the thing, my H23 IM did not come with one so I know I'm not hooked up correctly. Where can I find one?! Also, which pin on the PT6 do I need to pin out?! Other than that I think I'm good to go! Thanks!!

[Gsquat]

So can you swap an A6 head to an A1 block? What else (other than ECU) needs to be swapped?

[poor_monkey7]

Yes, before you even think about putting it in, I'd recommend replacing all external engine seals, plugs, wires, and doing a full timing belt/water pump procedure.

Best fricken advice EVER, makes life alot easier down the road and much easier on a stand!!!!! Thanks Sleeper

[BkCB7]

swap

hey i have a f22A6 i wanna swap the head for a h22 head or the H23...can some1 point mi in the right direction witch is better and want i need to complete the swap??

[mtnbikaah]

hey i have a f22A6 i wanna swap the head for a h22 head or the H23...can some1 point mi in the right direction witch is better and want i need to complete the swap??

not a good idea from what i've read. why are you wanting to swap the head? is there something wrong with your current one?

[islandhopper]

there is different # on the a6 cam from the a1,a4 but i don`t know what the # is sorry

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...44#post2665144

Hope this helps answer your questions on identifying an A1/A4 - A6 camshaft