Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

H311RA151N : 1993 Accord EX

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #61
    Originally posted by Kev1990 View Post
    Actually no nothing visibly wrong with the circuit board my Aunt and I who has electrical repair experience couldnt find anything wrong with it even with a magnifying glass. I don't have much experience in this topic but maybe when it was rebuilt or when they get rebuilt in some cases the wrong values are used? I mean if you got a code for shift solenoids I'd definitely look into that first though. You know what's messed up too Ace hardware really took the previous owners on the price of repair I have the receipt somewhere I could of gotten a couple of TCU's LOL.
    That's pretty odd. I will check into this.

    I have three sets of shift solenoids and all three test at around 14 ohms. One set clicks the loudest and they are what's installed currently. I also no longer have codes for the shift solenoids. All that's left is this torque converter issue.



    Originally posted by F22Chris View Post
    I think the valves will make noise no matter what. I've adjusted my valves [cold and correctly might I add at 10 and 12] and the shit still ticks. I've done this probably 8 times since I've owned the car thinking I fucked it up, but its always at spec. Lucas oil makes this worse if you didn't know. I'm guessing because oil cant get in between due to that shit being thick as all hell.
    And why are you even fucking with the transmission if it's gonna be swapped? <-- This smile is so Asian!

    They are always noisy. I had one rocker arm that was excessive and I could hear it. It stood out from all the rest. It was an exhaust valve on cylinder 2 and I would guess it was at or near 0.0135. Not far off but far enough off that I could hear it.

    I use Valvoline conventional 10w30. I will try and remember that about your experience with Lucas. I don't use it but a friend does.

    I don't want to swap it out right now nor do I have the time. On top of it all with this site dead as a door nail it makes it harder than hell to gather up everything I need for a 5 speed swap. It's going to have to be one of those things I accumulate parts for until I have everything.




    Comment


      #62
      This is the second thread I've read today stating Lucas additives aren't as good as everyone says they are.

      To the OP, sure valve adjustment and shift solenoids aren't as exciting as an K-swap (or the guy swapping a V*) but it's the little things like this that are keeping these cars going. In ten years time, after all the beater CB7's have rusted back into the earth, our cars will still be on the road!

      On the same note, can't think of any other 20+ year old chassis that you see more of than CB7s.

      Comment


        #63
        Originally posted by Flip-Eye View Post
        This is the second thread I've read today stating Lucas additives aren't as good as everyone says they are.

        To the OP, sure valve adjustment and shift solenoids aren't as exciting as an K-swap (or the guy swapping a V*) but it's the little things like this that are keeping these cars going. In ten years time, after all the beater CB7's have rusted back into the earth, our cars will still be on the road!

        On the same note, can't think of any other 20+ year old chassis that you see more of than CB7s.
        Corollas? I see tons of those still kicking around.

        YouTube Clicky!!

        Comment


          #64
          Yeah it is kind of dead... Makes me wish I was an OG when the CB game was on par with others. I still think it is, but not everybody is cool with the forum rules. Either that or they're dipshits who we won't want here anyway from what I see.

          Thanks again for helping out with the ICM troubleshooting too! Not a problem since I rebuilt the dizzy. The idle is still bumpy, but the warm stutters are no longer present. I'm going to just window weld the mounts and we'll see how it goes.

          Post some full car pics for us, please :]

          Comment


            #65
            Yeah its definitely a bit odd Josh especially since were only talking 4-5 years ago the TCU was rebuilt I hope the one I took from the other car lasts me but I know the girl who bought the car off of me with the rebuilt TCU that wouldn't lock up the torque converter she still drives it I see her once in a while its really funny to see her in such like a ran down Honda that will probably go for thousands of miles! The tail lights were screwed in by drywall screws done by the previous owner and the inspection sticker is still bad lol. Exhaust is loud as fuck and for her only having second and fourth gear she fly's around town like its nothing ahahha. I can post some pictures of this Honda if you'd like its real special L.M.F.A.O
            Last edited by Kev1990; 04-25-2015, 10:24 PM.

            Comment


              #66
              Originally posted by Flip-Eye View Post
              This is the second thread I've read today stating Lucas additives aren't as good as everyone says they are.

              To the OP, sure valve adjustment and shift solenoids aren't as exciting as an K-swap (or the guy swapping a V*) but it's the little things like this that are keeping these cars going. In ten years time, after all the beater CB7's have rusted back into the earth, our cars will still be on the road!

              On the same note, can't think of any other 20+ year old chassis that you see more of than CB7s.
              I don't know much about additives because I don't use any.

              Good way to look at it I guess. The kinda things I've done so far (other than deal with the more recent torque converter issue) has been really fun! I've had a great time working on this car so far.

              There are definitely a lot of 4th generation Accords on the road, that's for sure.

              Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
              Corollas? I see tons of those still kicking around.
              There are quite a few Corollas as well. Another great 90's Japanese car.

              Originally posted by F22Chris View Post
              Yeah it is kind of dead... Makes me wish I was an OG when the CB game was on par with others. I still think it is, but not everybody is cool with the forum rules. Either that or they're dipshits who we won't want here anyway from what I see.

              Thanks again for helping out with the ICM troubleshooting too! Not a problem since I rebuilt the dizzy. The idle is still bumpy, but the warm stutters are no longer present. I'm going to just window weld the mounts and we'll see how it goes.

              Post some full car pics for us, please :]
              I remember lurking back when it was rockin' and a rollin'. When I joined it was churning pretty good too.

              No problem on the ICM stuff. I've just happened to have dealt quite a bit with them over the years. I wish I was that knowledgeable with torque converters and automatic transmissions. That would come in handy right now.

              I will see what I can do as for pics. Or what I have rather.


              Originally posted by Kev1990 View Post
              Yeah its definitely a bit odd Josh especially since were only talking 4-5 years ago the TCU was rebuilt I hope the one I took from the other car lasts me but I know the girl who bought the car off of me with the rebuilt TCU that wouldn't lock up the torque converter she still drives it I see her once in a while its really funny to see her in such like a ran down Honda that will probably go for thousands of miles! The tail lights were screwed in by drywall screws done by the previous owner and the inspection sticker is still bad lol. Exhaust is loud as fuck and for her only having second and fourth gear she fly's around town like its nothing ahahha. I can post some pictures of this Honda if you'd like its real special L.M.F.A.O
              Without TC lock up it's a gas guzzling SOB. I'm getting about 20mpg right now because of it. Not that I'm driving it but during testing over the last couple days that's about what it's got.




              Comment


                #67
                While replacing the driver side front window regulator and motor I discovered that the window channel/seal is in need of replacement as can be seen below.



                Luck has it I have an OEM drivers side front window channel/seal stored away. So I won't need to purchase anything to fix this issue.



                I will replace the driver side front window channel/seal once I get this torque converter issue fixed or I know what the problem is.



                I messed around with attempting to manually lock the torque converter via the torque converter lockup solenoid yesterday. However, I did not have the right method which I later realized. In the picture below the yellow wire should have also been de-pinned and a wire ran to the negative side of the battery from the yellow wire on lockup solenoid.





                What your looking at above is the lock up solenoid connector on the engine harness side removed and a connector from a spare engine harness installed onto the lock up solenoid connector. The green wire coming from the spare connector ran to the passenger side high beam bulb connector with the connector removed from the bulb. I did this to be able to selectively energize the torque converter lock up solenoid while going down the road at highway speeds instead of connecting it straight to 12 volts. The idea was to simply turn the high beams on and if the torque converter locked up then I would know that the torque converter does in fact lock up. However as I said before, this would work but the yellow wire from the solenoid needs to be earthed in order for the solenoid to engage torque converter lock up.


                Below is a spare engine harness in which I use for connectors such as I stated prior.



                This was only to see if the torque converter lock up is operational, not as a fix. Just a way to bypass the TCU's signals and tell it manually to lock up.


                I assumed that if the solenoid "clicked" it was energized and thus would trigger torque converter lock up. That's my mistake regarding the yellow wire and why this test did not work.


                What I'm going to do today is wire a light bulb, such an an 1156, to the engine wiring harness on the car to see if there is a signal going to the torque converter lockup solenoid. If there is no signal (light bulb never lights up) then I know to keep on keeping on as for figuring out what the issue is. If there is a signal (the light bulb lights up) then I know I'm dealing with an internal transmission issue and I need to prepare for replacing the transmission.



                EDIT.... I will add that if the transmission/torque converter is faulty I have a transmission at a friends house here locally with 160-170k on it which I can pick up for $100. A torque converter (DAACO from RockAuto) will run approximately $120 after the core is returned and another $80-$100 for OEM ATF. So for $300 and an afternoon I can have it back to proper operation. It will kinda stink if it comes to that, but it is what it is. I'll make do either way.
                Last edited by H311RA151N; 04-26-2015, 07:19 AM.




                Comment


                  #68
                  I made a testing harness for the lockup solenoid. It splices between the wiring harness and the lockup solenoid and is equip with a light bulb. I believe in order to lock the torque converter up the TCU will send a current through to that lockup solenoid which would turn the light bulb on in my testing harness. But that did not happen when I tested it this way. The bulb never lit up.











                  Then I modified the harness a bit more to be able to apply 12 volts on one side of the solenoid and ground on the other. Still no lock up. The D4 light did of course flash and I didn't hook the pigtail up from the engine/trans wiring harness during this test as I didn't want to back feed 12 volts onto the TCU.






                  This of course made the bulb light up. So I knew all my wiring was correct.





                  Comment


                    #69
                    Hmmm that's a bit odd I don't have much electrical experience but a different TCU may be worth a try possibly?

                    Comment


                      #70
                      Originally posted by Kev1990 View Post
                      Hmmm that's a bit odd I don't have much electrical experience but a different TCU may be worth a try possibly?
                      The TCU in it now is a replacement. The TCU that was in it when I bought the car was bad. But, if I can source another one to try out I will.

                      I done a lot to this thing today but I'm away from home at the moment. I will update later tonight or possibly in the morning.




                      Comment


                        #71
                        I gotta say I'm impressed with the crafty troubleshooting!

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Originally posted by Flip-Eye View Post
                          I gotta say I'm impressed with the crafty troubleshooting!
                          Too bad it didn't help much. Still have the same questions as before. Just now their are less ways to answer them.

                          But, I will figure it out eventually or the issue(s) will show themselves.




                          Comment


                            #73
                            Hmm Josh with the torque convert or not locking up at 50MPH what rpms are you at? I think if I remember correctly it was 2,400-2,600 rpms or something.

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Originally posted by Kev1990 View Post
                              Hmm Josh with the torque convert or not locking up at 50MPH what rpms are you at? I think if I remember correctly it was 2,400-2,600 rpms or something.
                              Too fuckin' many.

                              It depends on the grade. Can't even give a good guess.




                              Comment


                                #75
                                Pulled the H23A1 plenum and TB off a spare engine.






                                Disassembled, ready for cleaning, o-rings and A/T throttle wheel swap.




                                Removed the plugs. Cylinder 1 had ash deposits on it as can be seen. I cleaned them up with a wire brush, re-gapped them, put some anti seize on the threads and put them back in.






                                Installed NGK spark plug wires with a new coil wire.





                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X