SUSP: Front Sway Endlink replacement

[Shehzada]

Update:

I installed new endlinks on the passenger side. I did not have time to do the driver's side since I also had to replace an upper control arm.

The OP's pictures helped me get the right order combo of washers and bushings. The endlink I removed had way to many collars than the one I installed.

I also used the tip here of tightening the bolt until you couldnt move the you washers. I still think mine is under-torqued at the moment.

Thanks to everyone!

[accordztech]

yeah, go back and loosen for sure. you'll probably want to get an alignment after this is done, that goes for any suspension components you touch. i remember after doing mine though, no more clunking on turns! good DIY, props to you!

Alignment isnt necessary at all.

Holy shit!! Why do you squeeze them like that??!!! You know you're only supposed to hand-tight that nut right? turn by hand until it's tight, then use a socket wrench and do one full turn or something..That's it!!! By the time you're done, those bushings should still look like this installed:



Definitely not supposed to look the way you installed it!!! I hope you haven't damaged those bushings!

Ronald

The way to do it, is to load the suspension arm. THen tighten till it snugs the bushing...not super compress it...just snug it.

Oh and I dont think its necessary to lube the bushing cause its not like any of the other type of bushings like control arms or anything. I never lubed any of my sway bar endlink bushing on any of my cars. Even when they sell just the sway bar endlinks on its own they dont sell any lube with it.

Also get the sway bar bushing to, the one that mounts the bar to the frame of the car.

[Losiracer2]

I just bought the Energy universal kit from Autozone part number 9.8105R.

For some reason I can't get the nut to thread onto the stock bolt. Do I need a MUCH longer bolt to use these bushings?

How long is your Energy Bolt that came with your master kit? I tried looking for a longer bolt in my parts bin, but this OEM bolt that originally came with the stock rubber bushings on the car is already longer than an AC compressor bolt (think IAB double stack)

I can't think of a longer bolt of this diameter and pitch I could use.

[Losiracer2]

Ok well I jacked up on the control arm and that seemed to bring them in slightly, so I can sorta thread it on there now.

But I can't do it finger tight or hand tight as some said.

I read in my Chiltons manual and they said to tighten them to 16 ft-lbs

But I also read in my Helms manual for a 1990 Accord, its a little confusing since they do those expoloded views and some parts overlap, but is this bolt an 8x1.25mm one? If so, then this manual recommends 9 ft-lbs.

This is what 9 ft-lbs (108 in-lbs) looks like:



I think this is the correct torque setting. Can anyone verify this? This is done with the car supported on jackstands under the jacking points and then I jacked up on the control arm and tightened them down to this torque spec. Just in case, this is the stock front sway bar off a 90' EX 4dr Sedan 5spd.

Also is the bevel part of the washer when seated against the bushing supposed to look like this:

) B / B ( {curved in} or like this: ( B / B ) {curved out}

[accordztech]

I think its a bit much. I did it like that, after 3 years the bushings were deformed.

Load the suspension by jacking the side you are working on up.

Tighten the endlink just till the bushings get pressed. Thats it.



Thats to tight. ^^



Just about right, but I dont think he compressed the suspension before he did this. ^^



Perfect ^^

I never had an issue at all, if you dont use a lock nut at the end, you can put blue loctite or just double bolt it if your concerned about it coming out.

[Shehzada]

Losiracer2:: I did my endlinks this weekend and you have the right technique. I also had the side I was working on set on a jackstand and I then jacked up the lower control arm and loaded the suspension. As Accordztech stated, tighten them as indicated in the pic. I also used a torque wrench and 16 ft/lbs seemed too much.

I will adjust mine this weekend to reflect the pics.

[Losiracer2]

Losiracer2:: I did my endlinks this weekend and you have the right technique. I also had the side I was working on set on a jackstand and I then jacked up the lower control arm and loaded the suspension. As Accordztech stated, tighten them as indicated in the pic. I also used a torque wrench and 16 ft/lbs seemed too much.

I will adjust mine this weekend to reflect the pics.

Any idea on the washer placement?

I think it should be done like this to minimize pinching of the bushings

) B / B (

right?

[accordztech]

what you mean by washer placment? Just alternate bushings and washers...?

[Losiracer2]

what you mean by washer placment? Just alternate bushings and washers...?

no should they be beveled towards or away from the bushings?

( B / B ) - ( B / B )

or

) B / B ( - ) B / B (

the "/" is the sway bar and control arm that the 2 bushings compress on and the "-" is the spacer between the two bushings and washers

[Shehzada]

I used Moog Part Number K90122. That washers that came with it are totally flat and do not have a convex surface. But in your case ............install them like : ( B / B ) - ( B / B )

[accordztech]

I used Moog Part Number K90122. That washers that came with it are totally flat and do not have a convex surface. But in your case ............install them like : ( B / B ) - ( B / B )

yeup...so the washer wont eat the rubber.

[Bad_dude]

Alignment isnt necessary at all.



The way to do it, is to load the suspension arm. THen tighten till it snugs the bushing...not super compress it...just snug it.

Oh and I dont think its necessary to lube the bushing cause its not like any of the other type of bushings like control arms or anything. I never lubed any of my sway bar endlink bushing on any of my cars. Even when they sell just the sway bar endlinks on its own they dont sell any lube with it.

Also get the sway bar bushing to, the one that mounts the bar to the frame of the car.

Could some one else confirm that alignment is not needed after the end links replacement? Also, if I replace the sway bar bushings, do I need an alignment on that?
If the answer is NO on both, would some one explain why it does not needed?

[Darkcloud]

No its not needed.

A. Because you arent adjusting the suspension itself(coilovers,strut and spring or redoing the main bushings uca or lca)

The bar itself doesnt affect the height,toe,or camber. That is why there is no need for the alignment

[Bad_dude]

Thanks for the answer.
I know we need anti seize on the bolt but what about the thread locker on the thread of the bolt?

Thanks.

[accordztech]

Thanks for the answer.
I know we need anti seize on the bolt but what about the thread locker on the thread of the bolt?

Thanks.

If the nut has nylon or is a lock style then you shouldnt need loctite. If its not then id put loctite blue.

As for anti seize, I dont put it. But I dont live in rust prone snow areas.