Have $4k budget. 93 lx 4dr auto right now, swap for sure but which one????

[smac]

Gotcha. So your path to a swapped Accord is pretty straightforward now I guess. No more issues like chopped harness or whatever else was a problem when this thread was started?

Correct for the 2dr as thats the car that someone stole the distributor from and left wires everywhere cut...

4dr however, the shop called this morning asking me about my AEM fuel rail? They state the injectors are not lining up straight?
Anyone have any experience here and know what they mean? I bought the h22 AEM setup and injectors? I haven't been down there to look yet but Im sure they should get it figured out. I am trying to source a front and rear engine bracket that I screwed up and didnt pull off old motor. I was in a HUGE hurry but no excuse. DUMB.
Heading to junk yard to try and find one later today. They have some ideas that would work so we will get it figured out one way or another...

[Jarrett]

I hope this shop knows what they're doing. Otherwise you're going to have a cobbled-together mess that they charge you for but won't want any part in later when it has issues.

An F20B is an OBD2 engine. That means the injectors, distributor and MAP have issues that need tending to in order to work in the CB chassis. All completely doable. Specific to the F20B (as well as H23A VTEC, H22A7/ Euro-R or even F23A) is an IACV issue that will require an adapter or a plenum change. As with any engine swap into these cars, your best results will be from reusing the factory engine harness and addressing any issues it has. That way, you know it plugs directly into your shock tower connectors and interfaces with your chassis harness correctly. Assuming that is the case here, the issues I mentioned before can be addressed as follows.

The injectors can be used without issue, but as they are high-impedance, you will need to eliminate the resistor box on the driver's shock tower under the hood. Cut the pigtail off at the chassis harness side. twist all wires together and flow solder onto the join. Slide adhesive-lined heatshrink over the soldered wires, then pull back and tie out of the way. This is how you would have to modify the chassis harness to use any newer injector like ID1050s, RDX, etc., and not specific to F20B injectors. The fuel rail is a separate deal with the F20B and H23A VTEC. The easiest way to solve it would be to find and purchase an H22A intake manifold P13 casting. This is on all H22A engines with the exception of the H22A7 and H22A Euro-R. This will have the 3 studs you need to mount the AEM fuel rail and bolt up to the head. I have no idea why Honda changed such a meaningless thing on these engines. The change in manifold will also rectify the 3-wire IACV issue as it will give you provisions to install the OEM F22A IACV.

The distributor can be used with an adapter harness, such as one from RyWire, or you can go buy a TD-59U distributor from a '92-'95 Prelude Si/Si VTEC. The latter option will plug directly into your OEM engine harness because the '92-'93 Accords used a SOHC version of the same distributor with an external coil.

The MAP can be done a couple of ways. You can leave the F20B MAP on top of the throttle body disconnected and plug in the OEM MAP inside the firewall black box, or you can snag the MAP plug from the F20B harness and extend the wires from the OEM MAP to the new throttle body MAP. Guides are available on this site to help you match wire colors.

The rear mount is an easy one. You want the rear mount and bracket from a '90-'97 Accord DX/LX 5-speed. The same bracket can be found on a '92-'96 Prelude 5-speed. Almost all aftermarket mounts are based around this bracket. If you don't care about upgrading to aftermarket mounts ever, then any '90-'97 Accord rear mount with a matching bracket will work.

[smac]

I hope this shop knows what they're doing. Otherwise you're going to have a cobbled-together mess that they charge you for but won't want any part in later when it has issues.

An F20B is an OBD2 engine. That means the injectors, distributor and MAP have issues that need tending to in order to work in the CB chassis. All completely doable. Specific to the F20B (as well as H23A VTEC, H22A7/ Euro-R or even F23A) is an IACV issue that will require an adapter or a plenum change. As with any engine swap into these cars, your best results will be from reusing the factory engine harness and addressing any issues it has. That way, you know it plugs directly into your shock tower connectors and interfaces with your chassis harness correctly. Assuming that is the case here, the issues I mentioned before can be addressed as follows.

The injectors can be used without issue, but as they are high-impedance, you will need to eliminate the resistor box on the driver's shock tower under the hood. Cut the pigtail off at the chassis harness side. twist all wires together and flow solder onto the join. Slide adhesive-lined heatshrink over the soldered wires, then pull back and tie out of the way. This is how you would have to modify the chassis harness to use any newer injector like ID1050s, RDX, etc., and not specific to F20B injectors. The fuel rail is a separate deal with the F20B and H23A VTEC. The easiest way to solve it would be to find and purchase an H22A intake manifold P13 casting. This is on all H22A engines with the exception of the H22A7 and H22A Euro-R. This will have the 3 studs you need to mount the AEM fuel rail and bolt up to the head. I have no idea why Honda changed such a meaningless thing on these engines. The change in manifold will also rectify the 3-wire IACV issue as it will give you provisions to install the OEM F22A IACV.

The distributor can be used with an adapter harness, such as one from RyWire, or you can go buy a TD-59U distributor from a '92-'95 Prelude Si/Si VTEC. The latter option will plug directly into your OEM engine harness because the '92-'93 Accords used a SOHC version of the same distributor with an external coil.

The MAP can be done a couple of ways. You can leave the F20B MAP on top of the throttle body disconnected and plug in the OEM MAP inside the firewall black box, or you can snag the MAP plug from the F20B harness and extend the wires from the OEM MAP to the new throttle body MAP. Guides are available on this site to help you match wire colors.

The rear mount is an easy one. You want the rear mount and bracket from a '90-'97 Accord DX/LX 5-speed. The same bracket can be found on a '92-'96 Prelude 5-speed. Almost all aftermarket mounts are based around this bracket. If you don't care about upgrading to aftermarket mounts ever, then any '90-'97 Accord rear mount with a matching bracket will work.

Thanks again for this help Jarrett

Injectors dont sit far enough down into AEM rail? They are suppose to be for h22a as I bought together but when I test fitted them they seemed very snug and I didnt force them all the way down? The shop took out the intake side grommets and they seem to fit better but of course would leak without gromment? I may have been sent the wrong ones? Have you heard of such?

Distributor: I purchased H22 OBD1 distrubtor- 31-17405 but also got Robert Burton Racing COP kit so all is needed is to use yellow wire ( power) and blue RPM wire from distro and should be good there? This seem correct?

Rear mount found and just have to pull.
Front bracket pulled and dropped off already.

[Jarrett]

Injectors dont sit far enough down into AEM rail? They are suppose to be for h22a as I bought together but when I test fitted them they seemed very snug and I didnt force them all the way down? The shop took out the intake side grommets and they seem to fit better but of course would leak without gromment? I may have been sent the wrong ones? Have you heard of such?

If you're describing the problem I mentioned before, then it's because of this fuel rail's incompatibility with the studs on the intake manifold. Can you take a picture of what's wrong for verification?

Distributor: I purchased H22 OBD1 distrubtor- 31-17405 but also got Robert Burton Racing COP kit so all is needed is to use yellow wire ( power) and blue RPM wire from distro and should be good there? This seem correct?

I'm not familiar with which color wires are affected. But if it's anything like the TRI's kit, it will include a harness pinned with two additional leads that will replaced wires inside the OEM connectors at the distributor to get a cam angle signal.

Rear mount found and just have to pull.
Front bracket pulled and dropped off already.

You don't need any different front mount at all. The OEM CB front mount will bolt right up to the F20B.

[smac]

I hope this shop knows what they're doing. Otherwise you're going to have a cobbled-together mess that they charge you for but won't want any part in later when it has issues.

WOW did you hit this nail right on the HEAD!! The shop gave up and called me to tell me they are not moving forward with my car?
Crap, now I am right back in the same spot as started practically. They did manage to get the motor and tranny bolted in at least... Now I need someone near Orlando to finish this job the RIGHT way! I am willing to pay anyone that knows what they are doing from this site to finish. I guess I can open a new thread in the regions forum and ask for help? Is this where I would do this?

[Jarrett]

There's a pretty good chance it's not sitting level, too. The driver's side engine mount bracket bolted to the block needs to be swapped for one from a '92-'96 Prelude Si/Si VTEC. It's available from Honda for pretty cheap (11910-P13-000
). This bracket can be replaced with the engine in the car and the engine supported with a jack underneath.

[smac]

There's a pretty good chance it's not sitting level, too. The driver's side engine mount bracket bolted to the block needs to be swapped for one from a '92-'96 Prelude Si/Si VTEC. It's available from Honda for pretty cheap (11910-P13-000
). This bracket can be replaced with the engine in the car and the engine supported with a jack underneath.

I purchased this part 11910-P13-000 Jarrett and they installed it. I still need the back engine bracket ( number 11 attached link ) which I plan to grab from j yard later today hopefully. I hope I can install this without removing anything else etc.

https://parts.sonshonda.com/showAsse...rimLevel=24895

[smac]

What about getting help to finish this install? Where would I ask? Is it the regionals section? I also purchased a full h22a4 Intake manifold with rail and injectors.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/122856171351

Hopefully this makes things easier for me since I most likely will finishing this car by myself. I could/would pay for help.

[Jarrett]

Yes, that intake will help matters greatly. Your IACV and fuel rail issues will be behind you.

Have you also purchased a header from a '92-'96 Prelude Si VTEC?

Yeah, I think the regional subforums would be best for that. But I don't know what type of traffic to expect.

[smac]

Yes, that intake will help matters greatly. Your IACV and fuel rail issues will be behind you.

Have you also purchased a header from a '92-'96 Prelude Si VTEC?

Ordered a complete DC header back exhaust ( ebay like ) that the shop installed to block but they left the downpipe and cat back disco while they were still working on car. I will have to finish bolting it up but all "should" line right up and be good togo.

[Jarrett]

Assuming the entire kit was for this Accord, the upper manifold will not bolt up to cylinder head. You'll need the header for an H22A. In the case of our cars, the '92-'96 Prelude Si VTEC offers an exact fit to our catalytic converter location.

[smac]

Assuming the entire kit was for this Accord, the upper manifold will not bolt up to cylinder head. You'll need the header for an H22A. In the case of our cars, the '92-'96 Prelude Si VTEC offers an exact fit to our catalytic converter location.

It was for our accord and is already bolted on. They just left from the downpipe back unhooked for now. I took a pic and it looks pretty good.

[Jarrett]

You're saying that you have a header that was made for a '90-'93 Accord with an F22A bolted to the head of an F20B?

[smac]

You're saying that you have a header that was made for a '90-'93 Accord with an F22A bolted to the head of an F20B?

no, it is for h22a/f20b full exhaust header back for 90-93 accord
I cant find where I got it from but think ebay. I was not sure how or if it would line up to stock, so I bought the whole header back.

[smac]

Man its been way to long... I lost a family member and it really hurts. This project along with my life took a "backseat" I guess we could say..

I am reporting today that the car is 90% complete. It runs and drives but needs tune now.
I need help. When I finally got the motor dropped in and wired up, somehow I was missing my down pipe. My car moved from one shop to someones house where the job was completed, so when I picked up the car, it was with open header. It took me a month or so but finally I got the exhaust on right. I hate it however, because my muffler is SO loud. I will most likely buy a Vibrant as the exhaust is way too loud and poppy. I am more of a sleeper type of guy.

I need help with 2 major issues:

The 1st issue is after the exhaust was completed, the car ran pretty good other than a really bad shake and wobble under acceleration coming from the front wheels. If I take off slow and ease into it, its not really as noticeable. My thoughts were hubs or tires perhaps? The hubs are new for front so I doubt there bad, however the tires are really old and need replacing.

The 2nd and more important issue is that my car started running like its missing really bad and I had a CEL for o2 sensor. The o2 I know about because when my exhaust was finished, the o2 wasnt installed and got lost. I just ordered a new one ( denso I think ) and installed it and that cleared the CEL.
Before when I test drove my car for a couple times over a 2-3 month period, the car ran good except for the exhaust smelling terrible and the open header. Then about a month ago without any change or incident that I can think of or rememeber, the stutter/miss-fire feeling started. Even now with o2 and NO CEL's, the car runs rough. The idle sounds normal from under hood, but at tailpipe you hear what sounds like a slight miss-fire. I did the RPM test ( pull a coil while running ) and all 4 cylinders dropped like they should. While driving the car with this issue, at times it starts to take off as should it feels, built then it starts making bog noise and feels like something is holding the car back or its clogged.
Any suggestions here and what should be checked next?

as reminder my setup is

f20b auto version
Bought separate type S cams from H22A Euro ( I think this makes the engine back to manual version but not sure about that )
manual M2A4
Ktuned bal shaft removed and manual tensioner
Burton Racing COP setup
AEM fuel rail
Rosko EGR block off
Rosko IACV block off
4-2-1 header 3 all the way back to 4 tip
Hondata s300 on P28ECU running base f20b map ( the installer had some issued with this map but said he re-loaded it and all worked as should )