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Electrolysis viable for fixing panel rust?

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    Electrolysis viable for fixing panel rust?

    Hey y'all, Some of you may remember my car, Daisy. She had really bad cancer around the wheel arches, the tail light, and the doors. I had new metal welded in and painted for about $700 and 6 weeks of time. Its been about 1 year and it looks like the rust is coming back. The majority of the new rust spots are in areas which were never rusty before, and weren't even touched by the body shop I took the car to. The rust appears to be back on one of the areas done by the shop. Left rear wheel arch, hiding underneath the paint and bubbling it up, Not yet noticeable but will be soon enough. The biggest most visible spot is the driver door along the bottom. I want to deal with this before it gets as bad as it was when I got the car, However, I cant really afford to get it done professionally as I am a broke college student, and frankly it's very discouraging to see the rust return so soon, Dunno if I wanna spend the cash just to see it return again after a couple months.

    Now a couple ideas came to my head, Can the affected area be cut out, and placed in an electrolysis tank for a couple days until all the rust is eliminated?

    I would imagine the electrolyte (Water+Baking Soda) being as thin as it is, would reach into every possible nook and cranny of the metal and eliminate the rust from within where it hides, but I'm no expert.

    From there, could the freshly cleaned part be placed in a tub or rust killer to get rid of the flash surface rust that happens after electrolysis. From there, it could be rewelded or bonded into place with that 3m panel bonding crap, primer-ed, painted, etc.
    What are the chances the rust would return on that panel?
    I am aware that due to the way a grinder cuts, it probably would not quite fit back as well, and wouldnt look great, But I would rather have a strange panel gap than a orange flaky hole that just gets bigger every day. I dont care if I have to paint the affected spot purple! Just as long as the damn rust doesnt come back, at least for 5 years.


    Betty and Betzi died for our sins


    #2
    Throwing in the towel

    I pulled off the rocker covers and sanded away the rust spot. The rust is much worse than I thought. As much as this saddens me, I think its time to give up and just drive it until the car breaks in half. Mods, you can delete this thread if you want, doesn't really contribute jack shit imo


    Betty and Betzi died for our sins

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      #3
      Post some pics, but based on your repair thread from last year, you were fighting a tough battle with rust on this one. I'm pretty sure the electrolysis method requires direct line of sight for the electrodes. There are metal strippers (at least one near me) that can dip and strip an entire car body if need be, but cutting it apart just to try to derust it, then use those same parts to put it back together doesn't seem to be a good plan.

      For doors, it would probably be easier to find rust free doors and swap them.
      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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        #4
        just soak everything you can with ATF or melted petroleum jelly even used motor oil.. thatll stop the rust in its tracks. Since its not a show car, clean up areas with acetone and patch with tigerhair fiberglass.
        That sucks, I know the feeling of dread, put my JHM 93 SE out to pasture because of rot.




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