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Suspension and Brakes - what do you run?

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    #31
    I know it's an older thread, but I wanted to add a data point.

    I eventually wore out the Stoptech rotors. At the time I was short on money so I bought the cheap Centrics from Rockauto. Honestly I think the only difference is that the Stoptechs have a powdercoated hat, which I didn't like anyway since it melted and peeled off and made a mess. The Centrics are laughably cheap (like under $20 each) and they hold up to endurance racing just fine.

    BTW if you don't buy cheap organic pads most modern pads to not give off much or any gas when heated. Slotted rotors are not needed. None of the competitive teams in Lemons use anything but blanks. Drilled rotors are a bad idea, they crack at each of the holes and they go through pads like no one's business. They have less thermal mass and less surface area touching the pads. I know they look sexy, but don't waste your money.


    One other thing I wanted to mention here for posterity. Balance front to rear is important. I first upgraded our fronts to the CL knuckles and rotors. At that race we cooked our Porterfield front pads and had some scary rear end instability under braking. My brake points moved back about 50' because it was too easy to lock up the fronts. The fronts were doing all the work and it made everything worse. For the next race I upgraded the rears to the CL knuckles and brakes. Problem solved.
    ==========================
    1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
    1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
    Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
    Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
    M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
    Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

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      #32
      Old school follow up.

      I still go in and read information on forums. If none is available, I go right to the source at the track.

      For me, I'm still big on Hawk pads and Brembo. They've proved their worth year after year in the racing world.

      For suspenion, it depends what my needs are. I'm still a fan of Ohlins, Penske, Bilstein, HKS, Tein, and a few others. I've also learned to be financially smart with my purchases, and sometimes, getting the upper echelon stuff just isn't in the budget. It's rough out here.
      Last edited by Straight Success; 12-20-2018, 04:28 PM.
      The Lord watches over me!

      "Stop punching down on my people!!!"

      - D. Chappelle

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        #33
        Often, the upper echelon stuff is geared to dedicated track performance, and isn’t ideal for street driving. For many people, a quality sub-$1,000 setup actually WILL be the absolute best setup.
        For example: Tein Basics / Street Basis - pretty soft for track use, but predictable, comfortable, and reliable enough for street use.






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          #34
          This is true, but the OP was referring to the track if I'm not mistaken.

          Yes, the more expensive stuff geared toward track day drivers is ideal for exactly that. Street stuff can work on the track to a limted degree. ALL track stuff will work on the street as long as it meets DOT's approval. I don't think suspension falls under that realm for aftermarket stuff - brakes neither for that matter. It's only when it comes down to state safety inspection should one be really concerned.

          Custom valving, various levels of damping, different fluid viscosities, etc... One can either keep it simple or get exactly what one needs for the correct application. Believe you me, I know.
          The Lord watches over me!

          "Stop punching down on my people!!!"

          - D. Chappelle

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            #35
            True. Though he mentioned that it was a track day, which leads me to believe it’s not a dedicated track car. Building a daily for the handful of track days it sees is potentially a very bad idea! I’d argue that it’s not safety inspection, but ACTUAL safety that should be the priority.
            I remember the one time I left my shocks on track stiffness, and lost the adjustment knob. What was great on the track had me skittering all over rough nj roads!

            This thread is also over 2 years old, so I hope he got it sorted! Hasn’t logged on since summer this year.






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              #36
              Lol.

              That's exactly where people have to find the balance. This hobby can get really expensive, and the balance between building a car set up for track and DD treads a fine line. I'm sure he has it sorted by now, and if not, he's going through the perpetual cycle of testing and spending money in this hobby some of us are addicted to.
              The Lord watches over me!

              "Stop punching down on my people!!!"

              - D. Chappelle

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                #37
                And you can't go throwing parts on your car just because you see that someone else has them... I've definitely learned that being in German car land these last few years. It's far cheaper and easier to become faster on stock components, then adjust as needed.

                YouTube Clicky!!

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                  #38
                  Agreed. And then, we always circle back to, well the Accord is a family car. Its designed purpose was never intended for the track. Hence why the OP ran into some issues. Putting a stock production family car onto the track can be dangerous in inexperienced hands. However, some family cars are designed and engineered by companies who have "Track" purely embedded in their DNA. Look at BMW and Audi. You can probably track a bone stock BMW 335i or an Audi A3 without many problems. Ehhhh, the differences in engineering practices.

                  Mastering skills on stock components with proper conditions and then moving up as needed is great advice. However, to the inexperienced user, tread carefully.
                  The Lord watches over me!

                  "Stop punching down on my people!!!"

                  - D. Chappelle

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
                    And you can't go throwing parts on your car just because you see that someone else has them... I've definitely learned that being in German car land these last few years. It's far cheaper and easier to become faster on stock components, then adjust as needed.
                    OEM+ is there for a reason, sir. German will always be my love/hate relationship.

                    Edit: Mazda & Ford are close contenders. The newer Focus/Fiestas are more German than American. I wish we got the pre-bullshitbubblething generations that EU got on the Escorts..
                    Last edited by F22Chris; 12-20-2018, 09:06 PM.

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                      #40
                      I make sure to call her a POS everyday

                      Yes, OEM+ is a term I am very familiar with now. I do plan on going that route, just like the manufacturer should have made it.

                      The Accord is a very nice all-rounder, but really doesn't have the foundation to be a great track car. Sure you "can" track it, people have had great success tracking the greatest ecobox in the world...the Civic...just sayin.

                      I would do very inappropriate things for a Ford Falcon XR8

                      YouTube Clicky!!

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                        #41
                        Hell yeah, the 2015+ XR8 looks so good. 450/420tq o-o. Yas.

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