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piston to head clearence

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    piston to head clearence

    tried alot of searching.....anyone know what a good piston to head clearance is good for a f22a? and what compression ratio i could expect


    thankyou

    #2
    compression to expect from what?

    a stock setup is 8:8.1
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      #3
      Originally posted by wed3k
      compression to expect from what?

      a stock setup is 8:8.1
      milling the head



      well to answer the second question you have to answer the first one. i read somewhere .035 is good for honda's. i thought maybe someone here would know from first hand experience . the second question dosent matter that much i can figure that out with cisco calculator

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        #4
        I'm wondering the same thing. I read that milling the head would raise the compression and in turn that would equal more power.... so I want to know how much a jdm h22a head should be milled to see a noticeable gain and keep in mind this is a daily driven car so I don't know how milling affects reliability..??

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          #5
          Originally posted by Chrisisiced
          I'm wondering the same thing. I read that milling the head would raise the compression and in turn that would equal more power.... so I want to know how much a jdm h22a head should be milled to see a noticeable gain and keep in mind this is a daily driven car so I don't know how milling affects reliability..??
          Most people don't just go out and mill a perfectly running stock head. Milling is done when the head is either warped or the surface is in rough shape.

          The more you mill now the less you can later. I think its really no point in taking apart an engine thats running to fix something thats not broken.

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            #6
            Originally posted by bruno8747
            Most people don't just go out and mill a perfectly running stock head. Milling is done when the head is either warped or the surface is in rough shape.

            The more you mill now the less you can later. I think its really no point in taking apart an engine thats running to fix something thats not broken.
            Ok i understand that but the plan is this:

            Buy a spare head.
            Piece together an improved valvetrain.
            Port and polish intake and exhaust ports....

            Then ive been reading about how if you mill the head just a little ie .03" or something like that it would raise compression and yield more horsepower....

            Right or Wrong?????

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              #7
              I had mentioned that .035 clearance on another tech board. Since then I talked to a local engine builder. He said that he liked to be a bit more on the safe side with his clearances. He said that he shoots for .080 for intake and .100 for exhaust.
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                #8
                good

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Chrisisiced
                  Ok i understand that but the plan is this:

                  Buy a spare head.
                  Piece together an improved valvetrain.
                  Port and polish intake and exhaust ports....

                  Then ive been reading about how if you mill the head just a little ie .03" or something like that it would raise compression and yield more horsepower....

                  Right or Wrong?????
                  here i what i'd recomend in your case...
                  do what i did and get some 11:5:1 pistons and run them in your motor, thats a very safe comp for every day drivers like ours. remember any milling that you do you will have to advance or retard your cam gear to perform right. give me a few and I'll write an indepth artical about it.
                  "Self Renewed"

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                    #10
                    Just to clarify... 11.5:1 pistons, while streetable, would require at least a decent tune and premium gas at all times. That's .4 higher than the H22 Type S compression.






                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by KeelesKustome
                      here i what i'd recomend in your case...
                      do what i did and get some 11:5:1 pistons and run them in your motor, thats a very safe comp for every day drivers like ours. remember any milling that you do you will have to advance or retard your cam gear to perform right. give me a few and I'll write an indepth artical about it.

                      Ok well my plan was to build a spare head to minimize downtime because i cant afford to not have my car running. Can pistons be installed without having to pull the motor and or ripping the thing apart? If i built the spare head when its all said and down the heads can be swapped in a day....

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                        #12
                        If you spend the money to build a head, I would suggest upgrading the bottom end as well... nothing is worse than dropping $1000+ into a head just to put a piston into it! The h22 stock bottom end is very strong, but these motors are old. Plus, headwork and an improved valvetrain would benefit from a higher redline, and revving beyond the stock redline with old stock parts holding the bottom end together could end up disastrous. It may not... but is it really a risk worth taking?

                        Pistons can be changed with the block still in the car, but you have to hone the cylinders. You CAN do it yourself, but most people I know would prefer a machine shop to do it. It's not too hard to remove the internals with the engine still in there, I don't think... as long as you don't mind working under the car.

                        Once you pull the internals out, the bare H22 block is EXTREMELY light. I have one in my shed that I got from bruno. I was amazed at the weight! I can lift the sucker with one hand! Get the guts out, and you don't need a hoist to remove the block. You and a friend would have no trouble doing it by hand (and a friend is only needed due to the awkward angle you'd be working with alone).






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                          #13
                          doing headwork will be best with a nice set of cams. but too high of a lift will require a higher compression piston.

                          milling your head is different from resurfacing it. resurfacing your head is taking enough out so your head isn't warped anymore. milling your head is more for race applications, beware of milling your head though. high dome piston with milled head, beware. I could be wrong though. check with wed3k, he's a machinist I believe.
                          The beginning of a new era............................
                          165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                          184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

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                            #14
                            I would plan your internals before having any work done. Don't go by what someone says is good... go to a machine shop that understands your application and give them the specs. They will be able to tell you how much you can mill and still be safe.

                            Also, when milling and using high compression domed pistons, valve float is dangerous. Don't even think about using stock valvesprings! Especially if you get an upgraded cam!






                            Comment


                              #15
                              fuck it, I'm gonna mill my head, get some high ass domed pistons, bore the block out .25 over, port the shit out of the head, get some stage 3 cams with no valve train upgrade, with stock ecu. hahahahahaLOL




                              I was just kidding guys.
                              The beginning of a new era............................
                              165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                              184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

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