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Have $4k budget. 93 lx 4dr auto right now, swap for sure but which one????

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    #46
    Originally posted by Rilas View Post
    This is the route I am currently taking as well, but with an F23A1 instead of an F22Ax or F23A block and F22Ax head. You have options, but you really need to setup a solid plan for yourself first. Pick an engine, pick what your goal is what it, and try to accomplish said goal.

    I had initially thought about keeping the F22A6 block and head, and just going big bore (like 90mm custom pistons) with a redline of around 7,000 RPM. But not long after I even started thinking of that, i shifted to F23 bottom with K20a pistons rotated 180 and forged rods. F22a head with extensive work and a hardweld cam about as bold as jdm_accorn. RDX injectors etc. Almost a copy of what accorn did. My plan is laid out across 3 pages in my build book (a spiral notebook comprised of every build I've ever done back to the 90's) and covers everything down to the type of oil and heat range of spark plug i want.

    A solid plan is a must, basic understanding of theory and operation of the STOCK systems is a must before you try to modify it. Having a solid baseline to work off of (working like it did from the factory) is a must.

    If this was mine, I would use the the money I have to get the H powered coupe running properly, fix all the oil leaks, etc. so I could DD it. Then get rid of your car payment, then start tearing down the auto CB to methodically build using the money I'm saving every month. That ~$500 will add up quickly to build the auto if that's what you want.

    *edit* I don't see flip flopping around while figuring out what direction you want to go in as a bad thing, and bouncing ideas around in a forum like this can yield a different perspective and reveal things you may not have thought of as a flaw. Flip flopping can be a bad thing if you are trying to rush it, or start buying parts before you have a concrete plan.
    Last edited by Size9zombie; 08-22-2018, 09:42 AM.

    Under Construction​​​​​​​​

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      #47
      I have purchased the f20b auto version 180HP. I considered the manual version (200HP) but am afraid my automatic wouldnt be able to take advantage of the higher revs anyways as I dont control the shift points with an auto. If/when I decide to switch this car to manual, I would get the other cams that make most of the difference at that time...

      Now, I would like to spend some money on improving this motors reliability to hold low boost in anyways possible while the engine is out of car and easier to reach everything. (I am purchasing an engine stand but not considering part of this build as its been a wanted/needed tool long time now). This means I am looking to change some internals and or bolt ons that would increase reliabilty but added power etc..
      I am considering this kit for certain. http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=196

      and this one too http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=748

      Please share with me any bare bone upgrade necessaties to a motor you would do to hold low boost....
      Last edited by smac; 08-22-2018, 10:20 AM.

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        #48
        *sigh*

        OEM bearings are fine
        OEM valves and valve springs are fine

        Replace ALL your seals with new OEM parts.
        Your ringlands are typically the first failure point.
        Get a manual tensioner and balance shaft delete kit. You'll appreciate the extra oil pressure.

        YouTube Clicky!!

        Comment


          #49
          Looking forward to seeing where this thread is in a month.


          Originally posted by lordoja
          im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

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            #50
            Ok so now we are getting somewhere. So you went the f20b route which has the iron sleeves so that’s a plus for turbo. But I would purchase rods and pistons as well as a complete bottom end gasket kit for the motor.

            Where did you purchase the motor from?

            No need to waste your money on valve springs and retainers, like sonik said OEM will Be fine.
            Most definitely convert the auto tensioner to manual kstuned sells both the conversion as well as the balance shaft delete kit.

            I would honestly get the H22a coupe reliable with the remaining money first though. Then use your extra 500 a month for your projects.
            ~Nick~
            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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              #51
              Originally posted by gloryaccordy View Post
              Looking forward to seeing where this thread is in a month.
              ThankS, and I literally started smiling ear to ear.....

              Comment


                #52
                Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                Ok so now we are getting somewhere. So you went the f20b route which has the iron sleeves so that’s a plus for turbo. But I would purchase rods and pistons as well as a complete bottom end gasket kit for the motor.

                Where did you purchase the motor from? JDM Orlando where I have purchased before.

                No need to waste your money on valve springs and retainers, like sonik said OEM will Be fine. Gotcha
                Ordered this auto tensioner to manual kstuned sells both the
                Ordered this balance shaft delete kit.
                My answers above^^^^^^^^^^

                Comment


                  #53
                  Guys I need your help. When I went to buy the 2dr with h22a4 motor, someone stole the dizzy and I think they cut the harness where the dizzy connect to car harness.

                  Can you guys confirm this below? Whats the cleanest way to go about fixing this?




                  Last edited by smac; 09-04-2018, 01:00 PM.

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                    #54
                    Here are some other pics I ve taken of the two "platforms"





                    Last edited by smac; 08-22-2018, 11:28 PM.

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                      #55
                      The 100&#37; way is to replace the engine harness.

                      Next best is to grab a distributor with the same style pinout and cut the pigtail about 4" down and crimp or solder (preferred) to your existing harness. Be careful with these connections because they carry the VR signals from the sensors. Make sure you have a very good connection.

                      Do not twist and tape. It won't work for long.

                      YouTube Clicky!!

                      Comment


                        #56
                        That harness looks dangerous all those twist connectors and it seems every wire is spliced. I would get a new wire harness from the junkyard and just extend the o2 sensor, and add the sub harness for the vtec solenoid, knock sensor. Also why would someone only steal a dizzy? So did you ever verify the engine is good and starts?
                        Also looks like your water temp sensor is busted, and your missing your sensor on the waterneck.

                        Also I like the sharkfin antenna on the four door. Was it a clean install? Curious to see more pictures of it. Body looks good from the angles that you took the pictures of.
                        ~Nick~
                        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                          That harness looks dangerous all those twist connectors and it seems every wire is spliced. I would get a new wire harness from the junkyard and just extend the o2 sensor, and add the sub harness for the vtec solenoid, knock sensor. Also why would someone only steal a dizzy? So did you ever verify the engine is good and starts?
                          Also looks like your water temp sensor is busted, and your missing your sensor on the waterneck.

                          Also I like the sharkfin antenna on the four door. Was it a clean install? Curious to see more pictures of it. Body looks good from the angles that you took the pictures of.


                          since Im gonna use my own harness for my swap, I think I am gonna try and use pieces from this new motor harness hopefully to get the other motor running. Is this even possible??

                          Can I use this motor as is with the sensors connected and then just buy a obd2 to obd1 converter then into my HONDATA S300??


                          I would like to use this motor as much "as is" as possible.

                          Comment


                            #58
                            The OBD2 bits won’t plug into the OBD1 harness. You’d be halfassibg a lot to make it work. Converting the engine to OBD1 is going to be the most straightforward, reliable, and ultimately easier way of doing things.
                            Don’t choose to swim across the ocean because you think airports are a hassle.






                            Comment


                              #59
                              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                              The OBD2 bits won’t plug into the OBD1 harness. You’d be halfassibg a lot to make it work. Converting the engine to OBD1 is going to be the most straightforward, reliable, and ultimately easier way of doing things.
                              Don’t choose to swim across the ocean because you think airports are a hassle.

                              TRUST ME, if I havent stated it yet, this job will be done RIGHT!!! I dont/wont take any shortcuts. I am asking questions because I am not sure on alot of things right now. I am for sure 100% on workmanship, cleanliness, and doing jobs RIGHT the first time.

                              Maybe I missed it laid out but I am looking for the most straight forward instructions you have. I am willing to buy whatever sub-harness or whatever to keep this swap clean and "OMEish" as humanly possible....

                              Comment


                                #60
                                HERE SHE IS.......SHE CLEAN NOW BUT WIL BE SPOTLESS SOON......









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