help: tensioner pulley/ oil pump pulley/ coolant leak

[siR_F20b]

the car has been driving me crazy all weekend, i just been dealing with alot of leaks and overheating.

about 2 weeks ago the car was dripping oil and coolant so i located the leaks and replaced both the coolant hoses and an oil pan gasket. not too long after coolant started leaking again, this time on the side where the water pump is.

i have the water pump replaced. this would be my first time doing it, so i still have all the belts to put back on correctly. i assembled everything before and got the car to run, but its making a really sharp whine and a flapping noise, also the belt running the alternator is heating up even with a tiny bit of play, not too much tension in the belt.

so far here are the things i have probably done wrong:
- i was told LATER that i should never take off the tensioner adjusting nut, and i did, perhaps this is why my timing belt isnt tensioning correctly. is there a fix to this?
- timing belt isnt tensioned correctly even after cranking it three teeth back and retightening the adjusting bolt.
- i forgot to mark the positions of the oil pump pulley and the other pulley on the other side of the crankshaft. can this cause anything to be running at the wrong time?
- when i had everything assembled incorrectly the car still ran but like shit, however i was more concerned with where coolant was leaking from AGAIN this time on the side where the upper and lower rad hoses had been replaced. except the leak isnt involving the rad hoses, it is coming elsewhere. i havent had the time it locate it yet, but it seems there is coming from a smaller hose that is also running from the head. i looked in the manual breifly but coudlnt find out what sort of line this is.

if anyone could offer any assistance it would be greatly appreciated

[trah]

is it the hose, where it's located on the left side upper on the tranny and right below the head? check there i believe it is like a 5/8 (14mm) tube. if thats not the case then maybe your radiator has a leak. if not check the hose from the evap to the engine that may lie your problem ( its located on the back side has 2 tubes comming out of the firewall right next to each other)

- for your timing take everything back off. put your crankpully back on check where the tranny flywheel lines up with the mark. check the mark on the pully left of waterpump and up a little) the water pump and oil pump gears shouldn't matter what there on. just make sure your pulley is set to the specified are where the arrow is and the pulley to the left of waterpump and the flywheel mark. check those and then your car won't idle like it has mud in the pistons.

[siR_F20b]

so far lining up all the gears and pulleys havent been a big a problem as i am unable to put tension on the timing belt?? wat i have done is lined everything up to tdc including the gear left of the crankshaft. i undo the adjusting bolt. i slap the belt on and reassemble everything. i crank the thing 3 teeth counter clockwise and tighten up the adjusting bolt and still so tension. there is tension between the cam gear and the water pump but on the other side its loose

[Tony1M]

Hi, this is my first post.

I don't know which year and model you have, so maybe what I say will be useless, but here goes anyway.

I did this job last week on a 92 Accord LX and posted a rather long report, with lots of photos, about it here:
http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/92_A...m_22119/tm.htm

Also read my last post on that thread about getting the timing belt on the proper teeth of the cam and crank pulleys.

The most important tool you should have is either the Honda manual, or another manual like Haynes. Follow it step by step.

Yes, it is important to have the balance shaft pulleys in their proper positions relative to the crank and cam pulleys when installing the belts.

It is a mystery to me how you can rotate the crank shaft so as to rotate the cam shaft three teeth, and NOT have a tight belt on that (left) side of the belt. The cam shaft does not rotate that easily, so the belt has to be farily tight to do that. Even with NO timing tensioner installed, that side of the belt should still be fairly tight.

Make sure that the timing belt tensioner is mounted on, and properly pivoting on, its pin on the engine and that its spring is mounted properly. The slot on the timing belt tensioner (the one in the thin metal outside the main body of the bearing) should NOT have a bolt in it after both belts and tensioners are properly installed. The timing tensioner pivots only on that small pin.

Hope this has helped a bit.

[trah]

turn it 3 times (360) clockwise then get it back to TDC. it should tighten the belt and try to start it with the belt on and crank. then it would not make a loud squealing noise like before. also make sure that the pulley theres 2 (one in and one out) on the same area is inside is down and oustide is up. if you mess this up your crapola. just get a 10mm bolt and bolt in the inside pulley and use your pry bar to hold it there and tightening for now then put the spring back on and then crank it 3 times. after you test start it take out the 10mm bolt and your good to go