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Old 01-13-2018, 10:32 AM   #21
fleetw00d
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Latest part number for the TCM is 28100-PX0-823. I have one if you need one.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 01-13-2018 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 01-15-2018, 11:32 PM   #22
wtfisafleek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
Fleetw00d is right on this. My '93 SE has a broken passenger side front spring right at the front of the perch.
I'll have to check that out, along with the TCU whenever it gets warm. It's friggin cold outside and my back is messing with me. I'm in no condition to be picking the yard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
Latest part number for the TCM is 28100-PX0-823. I have one if you need one.
I thought it was called TCU? In any case please PM me how much you need to ship it my way.

I'm also looking for a negative battery cable, if anyone has one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by excalibur02 View Post
wow broken crank pulley bolt! that sucks. I would have been so upset..

All your work is great! ever think of doing some OEM upgrades? f22a6 intake manifold?
Nah, not too much mechanically; not right now anyway. My main focus was getting it running and getting everything functional again, which I have for the most part. I had the itch to grab a later PCU(M)? and cam because I had the head off anyway, but I figured I wanted to make sure it would run reliably first. Now I'm just chasing extra things like lighting, funny noises, cosmetic stuff, getting the suspension tip top, etc.

Last edited by wtfisafleek; 01-15-2018 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 01-18-2018, 05:52 PM   #23
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Over the past couple days the car has been intermittently just dying on the road. I've been able to restart, but only after turning the key all the way off and trying again. I just went out to start it up and now it won't even start.

I'm getting a code 15 for Ignition Output Signal. So I'll be going to get a new ICM soon from Vatozone or somewhere. In the meantime if you have a known good one I'll buy it from you for a backup since the aftermarket ones aren't as reliable.


**I spoke too soon. When reassembling everything after the cylinder head replacement I'd neglected to replace one of the electrical connectors that the PO had broken, probably when replacing the dizzy before. I reconnected it and zip tied it up and it starts up and runs just fine now.

Last edited by wtfisafleek; 01-18-2018 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 01-18-2018, 06:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfisafleek View Post
I thought it was called TCU?
Control unit, control module, it's all the same thing. Different brands have different names for things, and depending on who you learned from, you'll pick up different ideas of what to call them. There are actually several different acronyms for the engine computer. See, you're using PCM, and most of us here are used to ECU (engine control unit).
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Old 01-19-2018, 12:50 PM   #25
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Makes sense to get the car in tip top shape before modifying. That cam and the pt6 ecu would benefit for later like you said.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:00 PM   #26
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That's about the gist of it excalibur.

So it wasn't that connector after all. I went for a donut run this morning, and the damn thing died on me three times on the way there and back, about a 2 mile run or so.

I went to Autozone last night and got an ICM for the distributor. Looks like I needed it after all. After fighting a stuck rotor I was able to swap it out. After a short run around I think it may be fixed, fingers crossed.

Up next, whenever time allows: upper/lower control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, shock upper cushion/hat, and driver's door window run.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:51 PM   #27
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Moog yes!

Driveworks tie rods actually didnt work for my cb. Didnt have enough threads to get a good alignment.
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Old 01-19-2018, 05:03 PM   #28
fleetw00d
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfisafleek View Post
Up next, whenever time allows: upper/lower control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, shock upper cushion/hat, and driver's door window run.
Did you get the run channel new (OEM), aftermarket, or good used?


Officially (Majestic's site) it is ATCU (automatic transmission control unit) and ECM (engine control module)

Last edited by fleetw00d; 01-19-2018 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 01-22-2018, 09:19 PM   #29
wtfisafleek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by excalibur02 View Post
Moog yes!

Driveworks tie rods actually didnt work for my cb. Didnt have enough threads to get a good alignment.
I'll have to make sure and compare them before I try and install.
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Old 01-22-2018, 09:20 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
Did you get the run channel new (OEM), aftermarket, or good used?
)
Seeing how intricate the design is, I went with OEM. I wasn't aware they were made in the aftermarket.
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Old 02-13-2018, 05:35 PM   #31
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Just a little update on my gas mileage. I bought 12 gallons of gas today and by my math I got almost exactly 25mpg, which seems a little low. However, my suspension is pretty worn and out of adjustment judging by my tires wear pattern. Also, there's been a couple days when traffic on the highway slowed to a crawl so I didn't get the mileage boost from that.
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:16 PM   #32
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I replaced the factory stereo yesterday with a top-of-the-line (for 1998) Alpine. I was going to scour Ebay for a factory style that worked and didn't play Ozzy Osbourne tapes backwards but my friend just gave me this one. All in I think I spent $50 on an adapter harness et al.
It sounds great, is super configurable, and the best part, it fixed the problem with sound crapping out of the passenger side speaker. Not to mention the bass and treble are clear at much higher volume levels. With the original stereo it would start to hiss and distort.
I also ordered some Moog outer tie rods since Driveline's are apparently crap, as well as a window regulator and other suspension rubber bits I missed.
I can't wait to rebuild this suspension and have a good feel for the road.
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