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Old 11-15-2019, 04:23 PM   #1
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Accusump Setup...A lot to consider

Well, after the shiny microsopic shavings in my first oil change after the H23A swap, even with the Moroso pan (raced at Laguna Seca), I am set on the accusump for the extra level of protection.

Canton Racing provides this selection guide to help you make your choices. Here is what I am sure I am purchasing based on the guide:

- 2 Qt. Accusump
- 10AN Hose and Fittings
- 2 Utilitarian Mounting Clamps

The two things I am not sure about are the plumbing and the valve setup.

1. For plumbing, I want to ask you guys if there is a 1/2" NPT or at least a 3/8' NPT fitting unused somewhere on the JDM H block. Directly plumbing this into the block seems like the easiest method overall, especially when I consider the new oil capacity of the motor. Since the H blocks already have an adapter for their mini oil cooler, I am not so sure another adapter on top of that would be wise. The other options they mention are T tapping the accusump into remote oil filter and oil cooler pluming, which would obviously cost the most, be the most work, and make determining the new oil capacity at oil changes the most difficult. To keep a reserve of oil cool, I could just install the accusump in the cockpit rather than the engine bay, and it would then release a reserve of cooler oil into the block in hard cornering situations.

2. I am even more unsure about the valve choice, and here is why. I need more info on this, but I found Ghost once writing on here what our warm idle and 3k rpm oil pressures are:

- Warm idle: 10psi
- 3k rpm: 50psi

I'm guessing the oil pressure is even higher near the redline. This large fluctuation makes valve choice really difficult. If I use a manual ball valve, then I would just open it up before startup to prime the block, then close it after I start the car, which would allow oil to recharge through the one-way valve back into the accusump. I would then open the valve once on the track to allow discharges and then have to close it again once leaving the track to avoid excess windage while not racing. If I use their fancy electronic valve with the pressure switch, I am not even sure which one to buy, since they say one thing on the selection guide (go with 25 psi but turn off after start when at idle and turn on when entering the track) but another entirely on their blog post on the website (use the one that matches operating psi and shut valve off at idle). The only positive I see to the fancy valve is the option to have an indicator light wired to the dash so I can see when the accusump is discharging.

I guess there is also the need to properly set the precharge of air in the accusump. Should that be set at whatever the psi level is somewhere in the middle of the revs, such as at 5k rpms?

Some of you are probably wondering why I see this as a necessity. Well, last time I went to the track (only time on new H23A motor), the car had trouble engaging vtec during cornering when it was actually in the proper rev range for vtec. I know I am not running a pressure switch, but doesn't the solenoid still check for proper oil pressure before engaging vtec?
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Old 11-15-2019, 05:04 PM   #2
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Yes. The Solenoid looks for oil pressure & correct temperature.
So if there was not enough oil or not hot enough then it will not engage.
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Old 11-15-2019, 05:18 PM   #3
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I'm not pro on the topic but it's the 3/8" on the back of the block you want. My turbo oil feed is there now. (for example) looking at this page.

"The preferred port size is 1/2" N.P.T., however, 3/8" N.P.T. is acceptable." And if you wanted a 1/2" you'll have to drill and tap.

For a race car, manual makes sense. The more expensive is for the lazy i guess. Or auto features etc. Go big or go home?
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Old 11-15-2019, 08:34 PM   #4
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I can tell you at least with my car oil pressure at redline is about 80-90psi. During warmup it sits around 60-80 until it’s up to temps. Then at idle it sits about 10-13 and yes above 3k it’s over 50 psi.
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Old 11-15-2019, 08:57 PM   #5
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Thanks for all the help, guys. I must've not had adequate oil pressure in some of those high velocity corners...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
I'm not pro on the topic but it's the 3/8" on the back of the block you want. My turbo oil feed is there now.
Just so I am clear where it is, are you talking about the plugged hole below the top two intermediate shaft bolt holes to the left of the oil pressure sensor?



Here's another picture. The plugged hole I am talking about sits right below the leftmost intermediate shaft bracket bolt hole:

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Old 11-16-2019, 04:06 PM   #6
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Right below the oil cooler/filter. (The one you are looking at I believe is a coolant freeze plug (but i'm not 100% sure))

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Old 11-16-2019, 05:52 PM   #7
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Ok, I see. It looks like you have two extra pieces sandwiched between the block and the oil pressure sensor. The brass colored one is a T with a 3/8" NPT thread? Did the two pieces come as a set?
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Old 11-16-2019, 07:46 PM   #8
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It's a 3/8" and it's also where the OEM oil pressure sensor /switch was. I have a T-fitting for the turbo line and the bras thing is the oil pressure gauge in the A-pillar. (want the pressure read where the turbo oil feed is).
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Old 11-16-2019, 08:51 PM   #9
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I found one of those T fittings from KS Tuned and it looks really nice, but the fittings are 1/8 NPT.



That seems to be the standard for turbo oil feeds and oil pressure gauges on Hondas, and that is too small for the Accusump. Man, I really want to avoid the sandwhich plate if I can...although that is one of Accusump's suggested options. I have just heard that they leak.
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Old 11-17-2019, 12:36 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G. Wiffington View Post
Yes. The Solenoid looks for oil pressure & correct temperature.
So if there was not enough oil or not hot enough then it will not engage.
Are you sure about this one? Pretty sure the solenoid only activates VTEC and has no "sensing" capability.
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:26 AM   #11
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To add to this, while the hold coming out of the block is 3/8" (I think) we know the turbo line feeds are 1/8.
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Old 11-17-2019, 06:59 PM   #12
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go with the automatic if you can. the manual is a pain in the ass if you forget to do the procedure perfectly every time
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
To add to this, while the hold coming out of the block is 3/8" (I think) we know the turbo line feeds are 1/8.
On Ktuned's website, they claim that the port on the block for the oil pressure sensor is 1/8 BSPT.

"Designed with 1/8BSPT male thread to match Honda Block. The adapter offers a couple nice features to help installation and prevent problems."

After I did all kinds of research, I figured out what that means, and it makes since to be BSPT vs. NPT because this block was machined in Japan. I guess I am out of luck for that port, since I must have at least a 3/8" line for the Accusump.

There is such an array of sandwich plates out there, I can't even begin to tell you. Canton wants $110 for their 20mm x 1.5 plate! I can find it for just under $100 with shipping on ebay, and it has a single 1/2 NPT accessory fitting. Still, that is pricey! The only other thing I have to check is the O-ring diameter compatability. Canton's plate is looking for a 2 5/8" diameter, but I can't find the diameter info for our filter O-rings anywhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbluesleepR View Post
go with the automatic if you can. the manual is a pain in the ass if you forget to do the procedure perfectly every time
I originally wanted to go with the EPC electric valve, but our idle pressure (10psi) and operating pressures (50+psi) are so different, that I am not sure which pressure switch to pick for the valve. It's almost like I need to install an oil pressure gauge just to see what exactly my oil pressures are supposed to be at racing revs: 60psi, 70psi, 80psi?? The highest psi rated pressure switch they have is 60psi, which means it discharges at 55psi or below and refills at 60psi or above. The next lowest psi rating available is 40psi (< 35psi draining and >40 psi refilling). Canton's blog tells me to pick the one "just below operating oil pressure" when the idle pressure is low like ours, and that I need to switch it off when not preoiling or racing. The benefit here is the one way valve, which allows oil to refill even when the switch is off.

Would you go with the 40psi switch or the 60 psi switch?
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Old 11-18-2019, 02:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
Are you sure about this one? Pretty sure the solenoid only activates VTEC and has no "sensing" capability.
Maybe not the solenoid itself, but the ECU that controls it. I've experienced lockouts in the form of early rev cuts for both conditions. Once for temp in the CB when I sped up to avoid 'technically' running a red light before my H22 was fully warmed up, and once for pressure in the RSX after I forgot to look after my oil level - sometimes it burns more than usual.

Also, don't forget to upgrade to an OEM S2000 PCX oil filter! They've been proven to maintain oil pressure past 8,000 rpm. Cheap insurance.
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Old 11-18-2019, 02:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgGT View Post
Also, don't forget to upgrade to an OEM S2000 PCX oil filter! They've been proven to maintain oil pressure past 8,000 rpm. Cheap insurance.
I did! I am on my second one right now. It grabbed the majority of the microscopic shavings after the first oil change, so I know it is doing its job well.

Do you happen to know the diameter of the O-ring on these filters? Is it 2 5/8"? I need to make sure the Canton Racing sandwich pate I am looking at can mate up to this filter properly.
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Old 11-18-2019, 02:32 AM   #16
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Sorry, I haven't ordered mine yet. I would think it's the same, though, or people would report leaking, if you have an old filter laying around to measure. There's also that threaded male piece that the filter screws onto that you'll need to figure out as well. Do a search for Honda oil filter sandwich plates and they should detail the specs.

*ED. - I feel your pain, and I'm remembering now why I decided to try other tricks for the oil system over getting an Accusump. I'm getting into this search process all over again trying to help you out, and looking at all these different fitting sizes and adapters is making me feel dumb.

This thread on an S2000 install was an interesting read:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra...nsors-1038799/


Found these parts... again, I'm feeling dumb after this, so a second opinion is strongly recommended:

Going off that guy's experience I looked into Mocal. Here's their sandwich adapter w/20mm thread for oil filter compatibility, featuring two 1/2" BSP ports:
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...ate-p-687.html

They also offer a thermostatic version of the same sandwich adapter:
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...ate-p-688.html

And then here's a 1/2" BSPP (the second P referring to parallel threads, as opposed to Tapered; I assume that's what the Mocal port is) male to 1/2" NPT female adapter for the Accusump plumbing:
https://www.amazon.com/BRASS-ADAPTER.../dp/B015ROB2NW

Then of course you could get a 1/2" BSP plug if you don't need that other port, or an adaptor for a sensor or something.
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Last edited by CyborgGT; 11-18-2019 at 03:34 AM.
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Old 11-18-2019, 05:04 PM   #17
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I agree on the last posted sandwich adapter. The improved racing looks nice.
Also I'm sure your tuning software can tell you your oil pressure at certain revs..
dood. are you racing without a oil pressure gauge?

I reached under and took a close-up pic of mine.
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Old 11-19-2019, 04:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgGT View Post
Sorry, I haven't ordered mine yet. I would think it's the same, though, or people would report leaking, if you have an old filter laying around to measure. There's also that threaded male piece that the filter screws onto that you'll need to figure out as well. Do a search for Honda oil filter sandwich plates and they should detail the specs.

This thread on an S2000 install was an interesting read:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra...nsors-1038799/

http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...ate-p-687.html

And then here's a 1/2" BSPP (the second P referring to parallel threads, as opposed to Tapered; I assume that's what the Mocal port is) male to 1/2" NPT female adapter for the Accusump plumbing:
https://www.amazon.com/BRASS-ADAPTER.../dp/B015ROB2NW

Then of course you could get a 1/2" BSP plug if you don't need that other port, or an adaptor for a sensor or something.
That was definitely a good read, thanks! From an old link in that thread, it is clear that the proper Canton plate for the S2k is 2 5/8", meaning that this will work with my S2k filter usage as well. I am glad to knock that question out.

I like the Mocal sandwich plate, especially due to its price, and the fact that you can order the correct 20mm extension screw with it. I would just get one 1/2" BSP plug and the adapter to 1/2" NPT for the Accusump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
I agree on the last posted sandwich adapter. The improved racing looks nice.
Also I'm sure your tuning software can tell you your oil pressure at certain revs..
dood. are you racing without a oil pressure gauge?
I did race without one, and that needs to stop for sure. It was a really dumb move that killed both rod bearings in Cylinder 2 on the F22. So, I will get a 1/8 NPT adapter for an oil pressure gauge and install it like you did, between the oil pressure sensor and the block. Now, in your case, the silver colored adapter in front of the brass adapter was for your turbo oil feed, or was it a BSP to NPT adapter?

Oh, and do you guys recommend teflon tape or paste? Canton says to use tape, but others on here in the past have recommended to use paste over the tape.
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Old 11-19-2019, 04:59 PM   #19
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Just a simple NTP adapter with tape. The oil gauge is some cheap crap i found on ebay. I assumed it's not 100% accurate as it will dip to 5 sometimes at idle and there's no adjustment for it. But all I need to know is that I have oil pressure
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
Are you sure about this one? Pretty sure the solenoid only activates VTEC and has no "sensing" capability.
I guess it "doesn't sense" if you want to be "technical" "but"
certain "parameters" have to be "met".
If you start your car when it is freezing cold & try to
go to VTEC it won't hit. (unless you are crome chipped or hondata)
The ecu needs to have the engine at operating temperature.
Or if you are really low on oil it won't engage either.
That's why when people have a dented oil pans they have VTEC
engagement issues.
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