Rear strut broken

[Krazy Kruse]

Hey everyone hope all is well, last week I finally went to get an alignment after procrastinating it for 2 weeks and to my surprise the technician said he found something... So he pulled out his phone and showed me this:

I'm 95% sure that wasn't like that when I bought it but I don't recall any events that would have made that snap like it did.

Anyway.. I'm probably just gonna bite the bullet and order coilovers earlier than I thought. I was looking at the Function & Form type 1s and I think I wanna go with those, I just want to know if coilovers or a good set of struts other than koni yellow$ and some lowering springs would be cheaper or better? I want the car fairly low, not tucking but little to no wheel gap, and it's my daily with decent roads in town. Thanks in advance for any input!

[Fleetw00d]

You need to shrink that picture down some.

I can help you out in the short term if you can get that lower bolt out.

[GTRON]

Hey everyone hope all is well, last week I finally went to get an alignment after procrastinating it for 2 weeks and to my surprise the technician said he found something... So he pulled out his phone and showed me this:

I'm 95% sure that wasn't like that when I bought it but I don't recall any events that would have made that snap like it did.

Anyway.. I'm probably just gonna bite the bullet and order coilovers earlier than I thought. I was looking at the Function & Form type 1s and I think I wanna go with those, I just want to know if coilovers or a good set of struts other than koni yellow$ and some lowering springs would be cheaper or better? I want the car fairly low, not tucking but little to no wheel gap, and it's my daily with decent roads in town. Thanks in advance for any input!

I had the exact same thing happen about a month ago. I went with the Type 1s and I'm happy with them! They can be bumpy (especially going from stock to coilovers!), but I've gotten used to them, and I can lower my car as much as I want. It's my daily as well, and I rub my exhaust header if I'm not careful on speed bumps and such, but I've never bottomed my suspension, and I'm pretty low to the ground.

I would recommend them!

[Corweena]

You're not going to match Koni quality with any setup under $1k. That's why its the best setup for the money.

Buy yourself a set of Koni's (I suggest new, so you have the lifetime warranty). Name brand lowering springs can be had for pretty cheap (think $80-120). Pairing them with the Koni's will be a great first setup, if you don't want to drop the $330ish for a Ground Control sleeve setup. But at anytime after that you can order them, and have a kick ass setup.

The only full coilover setup I will recommend would be from Tein. Either their Street Basis or Street Advance. Only downside to their setup though is that its limited to how much you can lower the car. 2" drop is the max recommended on them, which isn't much more than a lowering spring will go.

I don't like, and will never recommend any of the countless other off the shelf coilover setups out there....whether its F&F, KSport, D2, Yonaka, TruHart....etc. Their quality control is lacking, and while most people will say great things about them, I've never been impressed. Once you've ridden in a proper setup (such as a KW V2), all the cheap stuff just won't compare. Plus they all have horrible spring rate pairings.

[GTRON]

How does the koni set-up ride better? Just smoother, or what? (quality control aside)

[F22Chris]

Koni setups ride better, yes. also, you can get different spring rates from GC depending on your goals.

Like if you're wanting a daily, you can buy a different spring rate so running over a pebble doesn't deteriorate your spine.

OP, I don't see a photo.

[deevergote]

He deleted his photo because it was huge, I think. Here's a link to it.
http://i.imgur.com/P3cHTSZ.jpg
I wonder what brand that shock was. I can't see OEM failing like that. I bet it was a Monroe, Gabriel, or something even worse.
I bet that bushing is toast as well. Time to do some work!

I'm 100% with Corweena on cheap knockoff suspension stuff. Even brands like F&F are not high quality. They're perhaps among the better, but still not great. Better than Raceland, Emusa, or Truhart... but still... Most of those things are made in China or Taiwan (you'll notice that 90% of the inexpensive coilover companies NEVER say where their stuff is made... that's a red flag.) They are made with thinner, lesser quality materials than quality brands. They are made with machinery that is likely outdated or of low quality, with looser tolerances than modern, more high-tech machinery. The welds are usually sloppy and weak. They are often copied from generic designs, likely for chassis that are significantly dissimilar to your application. Shock? Check. Spring? Check. Appropriate shock body width and height? Check. Appropriate mounting tabs? Check. (those things can all be copied cheaply from OEM components.) Appropriate spring rate for the shock valving? Who knows? Appropriate spring rate for the specific vehicle's chassis dynamics? Who cares? Will they get you low and make the companies lots of money even at a low price point? You betcha!

Additionally, do you have the need, knowledge, and tools to effectively utilize a set of adjustable coilovers? I don't. Most people probably don't. Most people with adjustable coilovers probably don't. But that's what all the cool kids have, and they look fancy (because people are going to see your suspension when you're sitting 3" from the ground...) so people buy them.

You'll be better off with quality springs and shocks (notice I keep saying shocks... CBs don't have struts, they have shocks.) If you need adjustability, the Koni/GC setup that Corweena mentioned is the best you're going to get for the price. It is the best you're going to get for a daily driver. It will most certainly exceed your needs and abilities. It will absolutely surpass pretty much any sub-$1000 full coilover setup, and will likely be better than a few $1000+ setups as well. Anything "better" than that would be designed for a race car, and would still be inferior to the Koni/GC setup on the street (a race suspension on a street car is an accident waiting to happen.)



GTRON, the Koni/GC setup, or any quality static spring with Konis, will ride better, more consistently, and likely for a longer time than any inexpensive full coilover setup. The materials and build quality alone will ensure this. Additionally, as F22Chris mentioned, you have the option of picking a spring rate that is more forgiving than the stiff crap you can get on the cheap full-body stuff (F&F does let you swap out springs, or at least they did... but I don't even know who makes their springs anymore. Eibach used to make stuff for them, but they no longer do... I'm curious as to why that partnership is no more.) The cheaper companies give high spring rates to make the car feel more like a race car. Since most people are likely replacing worn out stock stuff, a stiff ride is a drastic and welcome change. "It rides tight, so it must be good!" I think people with worn out suspensions would be AMAZED at the difference even a full OEM (or true OEM equivalent) suspension overhaul would make in the feel of their car.
Konis also have a lifetime warranty, so when they do eventually go out on you (shocks are a wear item, after all), you'll be able to get them repaired or replaced for free. F&F would be glad to sell you a shiny new set of coilovers once your old ones have worn out.


I would HIGHLY recommend ignoring anyone that says "I have them and they ride good." Anecdotal evidence from people that are likely no less ignorant than you should not be the basis for making such an important decision. Your life rides on your suspension, as do the lives of anyone with you, and anyone in your path. Poorly functioning suspension (which could also include poorly set up suspension, going back to my need, knowledge, and tools question) will also compromise the suspension's ability to do what it should do. That means handling and braking will be unpredictable at a certain point... usually when you most need it to be predictable. I like to use the example of a child chasing a ball into the street. Will you be able to stop? Will you be able to swerve? Will you be able to maintain control?
Not only in the first few weeks... but in the next few months... or the next few years... will your suspension be able to keep you in full control of your vehicle? With the cheap stuff, that's a hell of a gamble. Buy quality. Keep it simple. You don't need fancy adjustable stuff, because I GUARANTEE you don't know how to adjust it properly (again, I don't know how myself... I don't mean that to be insulting in the least!) You just need stuff that works. The simple, high quality stuff has been designed and tested by engineers... most of it has been on the market for decades at this point, meaning it has been THOROUGHLY tested. Engineers are smart. They know what they're doing. Trust them. Trust real suspension engineers over copycat artists... because they don't design or test a damn thing.

[GTRON]

I would love to try out Koni shocks with GC springs, feel what the difference is. And a lifetime warranty is pretty awesome! The type 1s that he's considering are just height adjustable, no dampening settings or anything. Personally I like the option to be able to slam my car, or raise it up (which I might do during winter months). Granted, you will probably need an alignment after doing that.

[Corweena]

I would love to try out Koni shocks with GC springs, feel what the difference is. And a lifetime warranty is pretty awesome! The type 1s that he's considering are just height adjustable, no dampening settings or anything. Personally I like the option to be able to slam my car, or raise it up (which I might do during winter months). Granted, you will probably need an alignment after doing that.

If you're ever in SoCal, you're more than welcome to take a ride with me.


You wouldn't think, but its a pretty big difference. Way more balanced, and much more comfortable, especially over nasty roads.

[deevergote]

Properly matched components make all the difference as well. My first setup was a set of KYB AGX shocks and H&R Sport springs. The springs were a mild drop and spring rate, but both were still beyond the specified limits of the shocks. They were ok, I suppose. They're still being used in my friend's car, well over a decade later. Both KYB and H&R are quality manufacturers, but KYB doesn't make anything for the CB chassis that is compatible with a drop greater than 1.5" (even my 1.8" drop was too much.)
I replaced them with Koni yellows and H&R Race springs. Stiffer, lower springs, but on shocks that were designed to handle them. The ride was significantly better. Lower and stiffer, you'd think it would feel even more like a go kart, but it was quite the opposite. I never got to drive my car on the Konis and Neuspeed Sport (same specs as the H&R) that I had swapped on there shortly before it got smashed. That would have been my absolute ideal setup.

[AhYesCB7]

I'll put it to you like this dude, I only spent $400 bucks for my CB but you wouldn't catch me dead rolling on that buy it now bullcrap. In fact you wold catch me dead in it, on the side of the highway in a ditch or some other horror you can imagine, because the car would become a rolling coffin the instant you put internet $75 for a set of four coilovers on it.

I'm currently rolling on blown shocks and worn out bushings and I have no problem with the idea of spending pretty much what I paid for the car for shocks and lowering springs alone.

[deevergote]

You'd likely spend twice that for decent stuff. Plus an alignment, ball joints, bushings, and whatever else it might need. Suspension mods are some of the most misleading options. The cheap prices you see online lead people to believe you can do it cheap. To do it safely, especially on these old cars, you must spend a fair amount. It's worth it to do it right. For safety, comfort, performance, and reliability.

[AhYesCB7]

Absolutely couldnt have said it better. My old girl is 24 years old and it shows. I got a strange wobble I gotta make a thread about.

But yeah, Konis, springs, every bushing and joint, and yaddda yadda is probably the most expensive in both money and elbow grease but is the most REWARDING.

I'm a nostalgic guy, and I cant wait to feel this car rollin smooth and tight like its 1993 again. She already rides pretty damn good I'm almost in doubt it can get much better minus the strange wobble lol.

Believe it or not I even have a mint set of Boston Acoustics 704u speakers from 1993 that Im throwing in some EX speaker pods I found in the junkyard.

Ive been holding onto those speakers for a loooong time, way before I even had my own car (Im big into car audio).

[GTRON]

I'll put it to you like this dude, I only spent $400 bucks for my CB but you wouldn't catch me dead rolling on that buy it now bullcrap. In fact you wold catch me dead in it, on the side of the highway in a ditch or some other horror you can imagine, because the car would become a rolling coffin the instant you put internet $75 for a set of four coilovers on it.

I'm currently rolling on blown shocks and worn out bushings and I have no problem with the idea of spending pretty much what I paid for the car for shocks and lowering springs alone.

I spent significantly more than $75 on them (in fact $580), and I would say they're pretty reputable. Sounds like you got a nice deal on your car for $400, I would like to find a sweet deal like that on a second CB7 for daily driving, so I can tear into my current one more.

I think "Rolling Coffin" is a bit much, considering I've driven with them for a couple months, and haven't died. They fulfill their purpose, easy/adjustable lowering, with daily-able handling. I like em.

[AhYesCB7]

Rolling coffin is a bit harsh but Im only referring to the sub $100 dollar for all four corners set ups. F+F at least has a traceable company history, I'd trust their gear.

However in my personal opinion coilovers on a CB is some sort of cruel joke. Its an Accord not a Civ/Teg. Thats not to take away from anybody's goals or plans or enjoyment they get from their daily setups or track beasts, I just find it strange and a step in the wrong direction (in regards to what Honda had in mind) to throw stiff slam sleeves on a car that is all mid level luxury and not sporty by most definitions of the word.

I know these are abrasive opinions that will have some of you looking at me sideways, but at the end of the day its your car to with it what you will. My opinion on coilovers and what a CB7 should be is just that, my personal opinion.

And yeah thank you, I lucked out with this car for sure, Ill tell the whole story about the day I bought it in my ride thread lol. I definitely took a chance buying it the way I did.

Going to go look at a 9091 in an hour so so, trying to get it for like $150. Need a parts car for a friend and me to strip bare for his sister's 91 and my 93.

These cars are wanted in my area because of their reputation as reliable. Most you see are heaps though cause a reputation for reliability gives people the idea they should drive it till the wheels fly off then sell it to the next rube. Its a miracle my SE is in the shape its in in this area, then on top of that I paid about a third of what they usually sell for in ok shape.