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    H22a Swap from H23a1

    Hi all,

    I'm in the process of swapping motors from my h23a1 to an JDM h22a. I've been doing a lot of digging and trying to find all the info for swapping the two. I know im going to have to add some wiring on my old harness and then use it, since the JDM harness is wired opposite of our cars. I also know I'm going to have to use my fuel rail, however; the injectors are throwing me off. During my reading on here I've gained a lot of knowledge about injectors but I'm still unsure about a couple things. So the h23a1 has stock injectors (200cc I think) and the H22a should have 350cc injectors (I think that's what I read). With that being the case I know I need to use the H22a injectors otherwise I'll lean the car out waaayyyy too much at higher RPMs. My main question would be about the injector resistor box (I keep finding mixed answers for this) will I be able to leave it on or am I going to have to take it off? The motor is a 92-95 OBD1 (at least that's what HMO said) so would I be able to leave the resistor box on since it is not an OBD2?

    Also I'm trying to figure out what I want to do header wise for the motor since I know I wont be able to use my old header (nor would I even want to). I've narrowed it down to two given the $$ I have to spend on a header at the moment. So I've seen the OBX-R 4-2-1 header for $224 on amazon and a DNA motoring Tri-Y header for $270. My main concern is the merging area as they have two different types of connections (Flange and bolts and a slip together and bolt). Does anyone have any input on these two types of headers and which would be a better bang for buck? I have the links attached below

    http://www.amazon.com/Prelude-Design...eywords=header

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z5X136/...I2FRGKRZM0NGJ1

    Thanks ahead of time for the input!


    If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

    I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

    #2
    OBD1 H22A injectors are 345cc
    H23A1 injectors are 290cc (same as the F22A)
    Leave the resistor box. Use your current fuel rail.

    Both of those headers are generic knockoff junk. I honestly wouldn't pay over $100 for either of them. I say go for the cheapest header you can find on ebay or amazon, or shell out the cash for a legitimate brand that will offer respectable performance and longevity (I wouldn't get anything less than DC Sports if I were to pay over $100 for anything!)






    Comment


      #3
      What about the fuel pressure regulator? They look identical but would the one off the H22a be different, maybe higher pressure? Also the H22a has some sort of vacuum solenoid between the pressure regulator and the plenum, is this something I need to wire in or can I skip it and just go straight to the plenum like the one on the h23a1 does?

      I looked at DC sports but I kept reading reviews of the ceramic coating cracking and then the headers rusting. I'm just trying to find a header that will suffice for now, I've looked at the megan racing ones too (which is what I had on my h23a1) I just know that their gaskets suck. I have the manifold on the H22a but no downpipe, I might try talking to an exhaust shop and seeing if he could make a new flange for my downpipe off the h23a1 or is that something I should avoid doing?


      If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

      I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

      Comment


        #4
        Did some more digging, and I think ill be able to use the old pressure regulator off the h23a1.

        Another question I have about this swap, will the tune on my ECU for the h23a1 run the h22a? I'm not talking about run and drive it around kind of thing. I'm coming up on my 30 day start up garuntee date that HMO offers and I need to get it fired up. I wont be able to get it tuned before that day so I'm wanting to just start it and maybe get it up to temp. So im just curious as to if I can do that with my old tune with out messing something up on the motor?


        If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

        I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

        Comment


          #5
          Sorry, missed your reply earlier this month!
          Regarding the header, DC used to make a stainless one. Do they not anymore? The ceramic coated ones seemed to last a good long while for most people. I think many of the complaints about the coating were from people who bought them used, or from people that simply weren't careful with them. Megan is knockoff junk as well, though better than the cheapest of the cheap on eBay. Get new gaskets, and that would probably do the job well enough.

          I don't really know about the FPR. At this point, you've probably learned more about it than I ever knew. First step to see if a part is the same is to compare part numbers. You could always pick up an adjustable FPR. I don't really know how to use them, but many people do. It'd be something shiny in the engine bay, at least.

          The H23A1's ECU (should be a P14) will run the H22A well enough. Keep the RPMs low, and drive it as little as possible. It'll get it running well enough to troubleshoot any issues. I had my H22A running on my old PT3 ECU for a bit (after the car had been sitting... didn't want to risk frying my P28 if something had happened to my wires.)






          Comment


            #6
            No worries! I found a couple of old old threads about the injectors and what not that seemed to help.

            When I was doing my research DC still makes the Stainless steel one (or at least I can still find them for sell), but they are about $120 more than the ceramic. I'm probably going to wind up just shelling out the extra $$$ instead of dealing with crappy header issues again, if I can convince my wife to let me haha

            I should have mentioned this before but my h23 was running on a p28 with hondata s200, not sure if that will make a difference or not for the start up testing. I plan on using that ECU but of course getting it tuned once everything checks out.


            If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

            I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

            Comment


              #7
              You could probably find an H22A basemap that will run your engine safely enough for the time being. I wouldn't beat on it, but if it's a basemap from a reputable source, it'll probably be fine to drive it as-is. Do you have access to the necessary equipment to change the tune?






              Comment


                #8
                I don't have any of the stuff to tune with the s200, you need a chip burner an emulator and a romeditor cable I believe. I've never done the tuning myself (don't have near the knowledge for that). I always bring it down to the dyno in town and have it tuned there, the guy at the shop does a lot of dyno work for Hondas and has a great reputation around here.


                If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

                I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Give the shop a call and see if the guy would be willing to burn a basemap for you. You should be able to find a decent basemap file online for free (someone here could probably just email you one...) Or you could just order a chip and pop it in yourself. Shouldn't cost very much, unless you're buying from some scam artist!

                  Still, if you need to get it started, the H23A1 map should run it well enough, as I said. It won't hurt it if you take it easy. Just don't drive it like that for too long, if you can help it.






                  Comment


                    #10
                    I asked one of the moderators here if he knew of anyone with a basemap, and he suggested sending a message to John Vega of Pherable.net. He may send you the file for free. Might even burn a chip and send it to you! I've never dealt with him personally, but many have without complaint.






                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thank you so much! I've been trying to get ahold of the shop but haven't had much luck (Only the one guy works there during the summer and the shop is only open on the weekends). If I can't get ahold of him I'll definitely go and see if I can get one from the John Vega guy (even if I need to pay). I really do appreciate all the help. It makes me feel a lot more confidant doing mods on my car when I know if I have an issue I can come on here and find/get answers!


                      If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

                      I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        So quick update, got a new header and put it on. Car fires right up! However it will not idle on its own, if i keep my foot on the gas a little it will keep running but Its running a little rough.... is this just a tune thing or should i look at other stuff? I finally got ahold of my tuner and we have an appointment to get it tuned on saturday.

                        Update: after fiddling around with the car some more, reseting the ecu (by unplugging the battery for a bit), and double checking all the vacuum lines are secure, the car idles... kinda rough idle but it idles.... stoked for tomorrow! will keep you guys updated.

                        Update 2.0:
                        Tuner backed out Friday night cause he got called into his other job Saturday....I'm suppose to get with him this week to try again for a tune. I put putted the car around my neighborhood the other day (never passed 2k rpms); its running pretty rough, seems to be waaayyy down on power, and is still having a hard time idleing. I'm hoping it will all be taken care of in a tune, I've only driven it that once, the next time I drive it will be on the trailer to the dyno (if I even drive it up on the trailer, might just pull it up with the wench).
                        Last edited by thumping_accord; 07-12-2016, 12:01 PM.


                        If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

                        I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I've had my DC Sports Ceramic coated header for almost 2 years now, granted I haven't driven the car for one of those years, but the header itself hasn't even begun to rust yet, all the gaskets hold up as well, I had no issues at all, but it won't boost your performance, the Y-Pipe is bottleneckign at 2.25", if you increase that to 2.5" you should see a couple of horsies there, but the main issue really lies with its design, its a stock type design.

                          You can easily identify a header that has the capability to increase your power, usually the primaries and secondaries have some sort of expansion compartment before the Y-Pipe, like the Bisi header had, it serves the purpose of accelerating the escaping gas and thus pulling more exhaust fumes out of the cylinder, I am by no means an expert so don't quote me on this, I am still learning.
                          Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Honestly from my personal experience John Vega is pretty good with his ecu's from phearable.net. Did a real good job with the type S.I.R-S spec h22. Honestly the stock header I never had an issue with. As far as the intake a cold air would do just fine.

                            The exhaust on the hand I happen to just leave it at 2.25. You have to ask yourself which one do you want more top-end power which is 2.50 allmotor-wise or 2.25 on the exhaust which is more for downlow midrange. This is with no tune at the time when I was running some tests.

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