Dyno results; your opinions wanted

[Raf99]

What is with the dip in the middle of the chart?? Not like its a shift point, etc. I think someone mentioned its the runners opening? VTEC change over?

[Jarrett]

It's the secondary runners in the intake manifold. VTEC changeover is at 4800rpm on this engine.

[jdm_inspired]

After every run we did at the shop I went to, he put a fan on top of the engine bay and IM to cool down the car. I guess the shop I go to cares about customer satisfaction. I would talk to the manager.

[owequitit]

Due to the missing RPM lead on the first pull, which was operator error, you should at least have been given a 4th pull to compensate.

The CL-S is rated at 260hp, so with a full 20% drivetrain loss, you're looking at 208whp. 221whp with a 15% loss. I'd say that puts your initial pull right smack in the reasonable middle of that estimate.
Given the age of the engine, the 3rd gear pull (as Scott said, it should be higher... but perhaps there was some overcompensation in the correction?), atmospheric conditions, and dyno calibration, a lower reading wouldn't be unreasonable. Heat soak is definitely a possibility as well, considering a 45 minute highway drive. Did the engine have a chance to cool down once you arrived, or did you pull it right onto the dyno?
Had the first pull not shown so high a reading, I'd be tempted to say the lower ones are to be expected given the factors mentioned above. The fact that the first run was 7-10% higher than the next two seems a bit fishy.

Hopefully the manager works with you. As I said, the disconnected lead for the first pull makes that pull essentially worthless. Especially since that pull reads significantly higher than the other two (would connecting that lead have anything to do with that?)
"Whoops! We messed up! You're only going to get 66% of what you paid for today. That's cool, right?" That doesn't fly in my book.

Honda's J series ratings have been sandbagged for a long time.

The MT J30A4 would typically throw out around 230WHP 100% bone stock on premium (on a DynoJet), even though it was rated at 244HP. It was actually pretty similar to this engine, with less torque and was close to the updated version of this engine in the 2004-2007 base TL.

So, I would expect about 220-225WHP in this engine and I don't think 216 is that far off considering mileage of the engine, or the weather conditions.

After 2003, the only J series I can think of that wasn't under-rated was the one in the automatic equipped 8th gen Accords and the current RDX. Basically anything that had 3-4-6 VCM as there was no "high lift" cam...

The new ones all put out about 300HP regardless how they are rated on paper.

[owequitit]

If there's one thing the Metroplex has in abundance, it's new money.

I guess I just assumed, but you had run at least 3-4 tanks of premium though this right? Didn't that J32 need premium?

[wed3k]

dont get hung up on dyno numbers, its a baseline so use it as a tool.

[Jarrett]

Why do people read this and think my main concern is that my car didn't make the power that so-and-so's did? I'm concerned that the three runs that were all done on the same dyno and the same car seconds apart were so different. Not only that but they were incomplete and don't seem to drop off at any point. So yes, I'd like to use it as a tool. But I'd like to be sure the tool is doing what I want before I pay to use it two more times.

[cb7 calling]

I would be concerned with the accuracy of the rpm reading. I believe the Dyno only measures torque and hp figure is determined mathematically. It seems like the graph with the rpm readings are exactly 1000rpm off to me. I bet the car was ran to the limiter but the dyno is 1000 rpm off. There is a big difference between 190 ish lb ft at 5200rpm and 6200 rpm. Approx 20 hp difference actually. That would put your last two runs more in line with the first one.
I think a refund or rerun is not out of line to ask for. It's all rpm based.

[deevergote]

Why do people read this and think my main concern is that my car didn't make the power that so-and-so's did? I'm concerned that the three runs that were all done on the same dyno and the same car seconds apart were so different. Not only that but they were incomplete and don't seem to drop off at any point. So yes, I'd like to use it as a tool. But I'd like to be sure the tool is doing what I want before I pay to use it two more times.

Read? You expect people to read? Words!?!?!

[cb7 calling]

I read it a few times and believe I may have figured out why you would be entitled to run again. See my previous post. If the rpm readings where not there on one run and possibly wrong in the others you do not have a good baseline. Say the other intake manifold does not add any torque but moves the point at which 196 lb ft is reached up in the rpm range it would still add hp.

[Smiley_cb7]

Man, redline is shady af... Most people with experience in the area knows this. That was a mistake going there. I know you're fairly new to the area, and you should inquire with locals about trustworthy tuning, dyno, etc shops

[Jarrett]

Well, any suggestions?

[Ralphie]

But me, personally, playboy I don't give a fuck
And I'mma always show love to my cut
Hit the club, light the bitch up
The Cash Money motto - we gotta drink 'til we throw up



Ummm but yea did you ever speak to the manager?

[Jarrett]

I did. He responded somewhat favorably, but is out of the country in Vietnam until mid-October. He says he'll get me taken care of then. Truthfully, I didn't even want to wait this long.

[owequitit]

Best option is probably to just cut the losses and find a new shop.