First post, looking for advice about buying.

[spiderpig]

Kick the tires inspect the car well and drive it both highway and local roads then ask seller if he would take $600 cash NOW. If he don't screw it old rusty Accords are not rare.

[Yulath]

Hey guys,

I did end up making an offer on the car -- $800 -- and I got it.

There don't appear to be any leaks; he had it parked in his driveway and there wasn't anything under the car.

The rust is on the rear wheel wells on both sides -- it's actually worse on the side that is shown in the pictures.

I wasn't able to figure out how to get the CEL code, unfortunately, but I did like the vehicle so I went ahead and bought it. Seems to drive OK -- one other issue that concerns me is that it kind of stutters a bit while starting up like it's struggling a bit for gas. Feed it a bit when you start it and then it idles fine.

The interior is very clean.

I wasn't able to drive it home, but I'll definitely keep you guys updated when I do and get the code checked and what not!

[Ralphie]

Nice!

That CEL could be related to the stutter.

I would do a complete tune up when you get it. Oil, new trans fluid, drain/replace brake fluid, PWF etc.

Clean the injectors and the throttle body.

New plugs/wires

valve cover gasket and tube seals.

New coolant!!!

check all hoses for leaks, when hot not just when cold...

and if you're keeping it for a bit, you might want to do the timing belt and water pump...

pain but will make sure you're not stranded!

rotors/pads...

check battery as well! Autozone will check battery, starter, and ignition system for free.

You should be good after that!

[spiderpig]

Sweet! Are you in PA?

[Yulath]

Nope -- in Ohio. The car's originally from PA though!

[PakaloloHonda]

Hey guys,

I did end up making an offer on the car -- $800 -- and I got it.

There don't appear to be any leaks; he had it parked in his driveway and there wasn't anything under the car.

The rust is on the rear wheel wells on both sides -- it's actually worse on the side that is shown in the pictures.

I wasn't able to figure out how to get the CEL code, unfortunately, but I did like the vehicle so I went ahead and bought it. Seems to drive OK -- one other issue that concerns me is that it kind of stutters a bit while starting up like it's struggling a bit for gas. Feed it a bit when you start it and then it idles fine.

The interior is very clean.

I wasn't able to drive it home, but I'll definitely keep you guys updated when I do and get the code checked and what not!

Good deal! Yes, 800 is more like it ...

Now you've got some xtra $$$ for more important issues .. awesome!
Do what Ralph suggests and get the code(s) up and get back here!

Oh and .. more pictures .. always more pictures. And why weren't you able to drive it home btw?

[PakaloloHonda]

What I do is go to google and type in "CB7" and then what I'm looking for. I never ever use the search function.

ahhh! k .. gotchya .. I'll have to try that. Thanks!

I never have too much trouble with the searches here. I know that I'm subscribed to one with all the codes in it.
I coulda sworn it was a "stickie" at one time or another!

I still say code 8-4 (or related) ..

Thanks Josh!

[Yulath]

Good deal! Yes, 800 is more like it ...

Now you've got some xtra $$$ for more important issues .. awesome!
Do what Ralph suggests and get the code(s) up and get back here!

Oh and .. more pictures .. always more pictures. And why weren't you able to drive it home btw?

Will do with the code/pictures.

As far as not driving it home; a few reasons. 1) It's roughly 30 minutes away from my home. 2) It's a PA registered car coming to Ohio; found out today that I have to go to a license bureau to get a temporary tag, then go get the car, bring it back and have them do an out of state inspection (basically checking the VIN number). So, working full time and basically being on my own, it's not the easiest thing to schedule

[Yulath]

Hey guys!

Sorry no pics yet, my phone's a potato.

I drove the car home last night, and everything seemed OK. It pulls to the right very slightly, but that's about it.

However, after the drive (and turning it on today) I noticed a few things.

1) The D4 light on the dash is blinking. I've read that his can be a VSS, possible tranny issues?

2) Now that the D4 light is blinking, it seems to take a lot more gas than necessary to actually get it moving. Like upwards of 1500 rpm (it idles at around 700) to actually start giving you more acceleration -- a stark comparison to going in reverse, as it will respond immediately to acceleration in reverse.

3) I used the ol' paperclip method to check the CEL code -- it gave me 7 short flashes, which indicates it is the Throttle Position Sensor. Could the two issues be related?

Thanks!

[ninethreecoupe]

When you do the paperclip trick you the D4 light should flash as well...or at least mine did after the CEL light flashed. I actually didn't notice my D4 light flashing right away since I was only looking for a CEL so it's possible you missed it too. And it doesn't always mean its the VSS, that's just usually the common issue. For me it was my shift solenoid so I replaced that and the lock-up solenoid to remedy it.

[Yulath]

Sorry, let me clarify; the D4 light was flashing before I checked the CEL on it.

[cb9love]

Nope -- in Ohio. The car's originally from PA though!

yeah he may have never found a rust free accord in the rust belt, damn southern kids and their minty rides.

[Restless]

Hey guys!

Sorry no pics yet, my phone's a potato.

I drove the car home last night, and everything seemed OK. It pulls to the right very slightly, but that's about it.

However, after the drive (and turning it on today) I noticed a few things.

1) The D4 light on the dash is blinking. I've read that his can be a VSS, possible tranny issues?

2) Now that the D4 light is blinking, it seems to take a lot more gas than necessary to actually get it moving. Like upwards of 1500 rpm (it idles at around 700) to actually start giving you more acceleration -- a stark comparison to going in reverse, as it will respond immediately to acceleration in reverse.

3) I used the ol' paperclip method to check the CEL code -- it gave me 7 short flashes, which indicates it is the Throttle Position Sensor. Could the two issues be related?

Thanks!

This may help a bit for the problems your having with either your throttle position sensor or shift solenoid "A" circuit being open or shorted . They talked a little bit about both in each thread

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=21259
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb//showthread.php?t=181891

[Yulath]

Heard back from the mechanic with a laundry list of problems. I'm not sure what to do.

1) Right upper ball joint is ready to snap at any point. Says I need a whole new upper control arm.

2) It's giving codes for an o2 sensor, throttle pressure sensor, and bad solinoids in "B".

3) There's metal chips on the transmission stick?

4) Front springs are completely broken (for suspension?)

5) He said transmission was slipping (I didn't notice this)

6) There's a bunch of holes in the exhaust

7) Dirty antifreeze, has the wrong type of PS fluid in it (I did notice intermittent power steering problems but it didn't seem that bad, I just chalked it up to age)

8) There's oil all over the bottom of the engine (valve cover?)

9) Dirty antifreeze

Obviously to get it roadworthy the ball joint/UCA would need to be replaced, flush/replace the fluids..but what about this other stuff? The transmission concerns me the most..

[wildBill83]

DIY the upper ball joints and TCU repair. I doubt your shift solenoids need little more than a clean screen and change your transmission fluid. Take a look under the car yourself. The springs being broken sounds fishy.

Use this site as a resource and search for the needed repairs.