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Transmission grinding after CV replacement

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    Transmission grinding after CV replacement

    F22a6 4AT
    After replacing my driver cv axle, passenger was recently replaced but not driver by po. It's an automatic but I believe as soon as it shifted into second gear it completely just stopped and made this horrible grinding noise, while pushing it back home it constantly kept making a constant clicking noise with it in neutral. If I turned it over it sounded fine, but once I shift into reverse, since its the first gear on the shifter, it makes a horrible grinding noise and does not move but the mph do, and if I threw it in park the pitch would change. Got it back home and check the fluid and it was very low, so I added more fluid and got it to an okay level, the grinding got quieter but it's still there. Jacked the front end up and (sorry if I confuse you on this) if I rotate the driver tire the passenger tire does not move at all. When I rotated the passenger tire the driver tire caught once and moved but then stopped. Driver tire has more resistance when trying to turn but the passenger side makes a clicking noise. If you have any advice I would greatly appreciate it and thank you for reading this.

    #2
    First make sure the inner end of the driver side axle is actually engaged in the transmission. Jack up the front of the car. Does the inner end of the driver axle turn in the opposite direction of the passenger axle/wheel when the passenger side wheel is rotated? If the inner end of the axle rotates, and the outer end doesn't, then a CV joint failed. If no part of the driver side axle turns, then either the spline on the axle stripped, or something in the differential failed. Remove the axle and check the condition of the splines.
    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
      First make sure the inner end of the driver side axle is actually engaged in the transmission. Jack up the front of the car. Does the inner end of the driver axle turn in the opposite direction of the passenger axle/wheel when the passenger side wheel is rotated? If the inner end of the axle rotates, and the outer end doesn't, then a CV joint failed. If no part of the driver side axle turns, then either the spline on the axle stripped, or something in the differential failed. Remove the axle and check the condition of the splines.
      I've been working 12s since I made the post so I just got to look at it. Neither axle moves when the opposite tire is spun. I was working on getting the driver axle out but had to leave to take the gf home, was stuck trying to get the upper ball joint out of the knuckle.

      Looking at the old inner spline(the part that goes in the tranny) it has about 1/8" of spline before the c-clip, could it have engaged on that 1/8" of splines? I didn't look before I took the old driver axle out but the new axle appears to have a gap where it seats in, it's all solid and rotates with the tire.

      I will continue working on getting the axle out tomorrow.

      Comment


        #4
        You shouldn't see any of the spline exposed between the transmission and the axle joint. There may be a small gap, but not enough to see any of the splines.

        Not to insult you just asking because I have done stupid crap before. Did you try to rotate the tires with the car off the ground and in gear?
        ~Nick~
        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
          You shouldn't see any of the spline exposed between the transmission and the axle joint. There may be a small gap, but not enough to see any of the splines.

          Not to insult you just asking because I have done stupid crap before. Did you try to rotate the tires with the car off the ground and in gear?
          You've got me hitting my head, yes I did jack up both tires, but only in park.... I will do it again in drive today, wow I feel dumb. I'll try to take a photo of the gap before I pull it out and inspect the splines.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
            You shouldn't see any of the spline exposed between the transmission and the axle joint. There may be a small gap, but not enough to see any of the splines.

            Not to insult you just asking because I have done stupid crap before. Did you try to rotate the tires with the car off the ground and in gear?
            Looked at it today and I do not believe the axle is engaged.

            https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Oo...CeVc83ZpSlpHWX

            Comment


              #7
              Ya that axle is sticking pretty far out. I know on manual transmissions it should be pretty much flush. It’s either the wrong axle or it’s rusted up pretty good and you can’t slide it in all the way.
              ~Nick~
              FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
              MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

              Comment


                #8
                The large hub of the axle CV joint should be right next to the transmission housing; you shouldn't be able to see any of the spline.
                90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                Comment


                  #9
                  Axle is good, brakes are not

                  Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                  Ya that axle is sticking pretty far out. I know on manual transmissions it should be pretty much flush. It’s either the wrong axle or it’s rusted up pretty good and you can’t slide it in all the way.
                  I didn't feel comfortable attempting to do the replacement again once I got the thought of it coming undone while on the freeway... so I took it to a shop and the guy charged me 120 to get it replaced, turns out my axle was chewed up and he had to get it warranted by my auto parts store, no longer have my clicking noise from the driver side.

                  When I got in and threw it in reverse and went to stop I had a hard pedal and had to compress it all the way to stop, before it was about half way before the brakes engaged. I brake okay still, no jerking, but slowing down from 50 takes some time. I attempted the brake booster test by pumping the brakes 4 times and it got solid, turned the car over and the pedal went very low.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Knavishmammal View Post
                    I didn't feel comfortable attempting to do the replacement again once I got the thought of it coming undone while on the freeway... so I took it to a shop and the guy charged me 120 to get it replaced, turns out my axle was chewed up and he had to get it warranted by my auto parts store, no longer have my clicking noise from the driver side.

                    When I got in and threw it in reverse and went to stop I had a hard pedal and had to compress it all the way to stop, before it was about half way before the brakes engaged. I brake okay still, no jerking, but slowing down from 50 takes some time. I attempted the brake booster test by pumping the brakes 4 times and it got solid, turned the car over and the pedal went very low.
                    If the end of the axle was chewed up, you may have a bunch of debris in your transmission. I suggest doing at least one drain and fill of the transmission fluid and clean the magnetic drain plug.

                    Make sure your master cylinder fluid level is good; if so, the master cylinder may be going bad.
                    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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