ENG: F22 Spark Plug Tube Seal Replacement

[HondaFan81]

Step # 11

Photo of new lower tube seals or O-rings installed. Be careful not to encounter any sharp metal edges when installing these, as to not slit them. Put a light coat of oil on all four O-rings before installing them.

** EDIT - There is NO NEED for Hondabond or any RTV/silicone on these O-rings. It was a false alarm on my previous comment with oil seeping into cylinder #2 spark plug tube. I checked it ~ 25,000 miles after this job was done and there is NO OIL IN ANY OF THE TUBES. **

[HondaFan81]

Step # 12

Rocker arm assembly installed. Be sure to first hand tighten and snug all bolts in the proper installation torque sequence. Then, follow through and use a torque wrench and torque the bolts in the installation sequence. This means torquing the rocker arm assembly down evenly as well, which means you have to conduct the torque sequence may times until the target torque specification is reached.

The smaller bolts are 108 in-lbs and the larger are 16 lb-ft.

Reinstall the timing belt and set the belt tension. The timing belt should already be in it's loose state if you have followed the directions. Slip the belt back on, lining up the marks you made previously to keep the cam timing the same. After the belt is on the cam gear, put a mark on one of the cam gear teeth. Now go to the adjustment nut for the timing belt tension (14mm) and loosen it one full turn, then turn the crank counter-clockwise (wratchet, 19mm socket and 6" 1/2 inch extension) until that cam gear tooth mark you made moves the distance of 3 cam gear teeth. Finally, go back to that adjustment nut and snug it down good. This sets the tension on the timing belt.

After reinstalling the timing belt (must have belt on to turn the crank & camshaft), do a valve lash adjustment and set all the intake and exhaust valves to specification. Please refer to a Haynes/Chilton or Helms manual for this procedure. You will need a screwdriver, 10mm combo wrench and feeler gauge with the following measurements:

intake .010"
exhaust .012"

[HondaFan81]

Step # 13

Valve cover is installed and spark plug boots put back in their proper places. The four 10mm acorn nuts are 84 in-lbs and make sure to replace everything that was removed from the valve cover. Remember to reinstall the ground wire and 10mm bolt that fastens it down (below oil cap).

[HondaFan81]

Step # 14

Reinstalled spark plug wires at the distributor end. Having the wires and distributor cap labeled makes for an easy job and no mix ups at this point. That's why I mentioned it previously.

[HondaFan81]

Rocker Arm Assembly Torque Sequence

Rocker Arm Assembly Torque Sequence Diagram:

Note: Thanks to wb7h - Mike for scanning this for me, I didn't have my Helms manual on-hand.

[TheTempest]

wow, in concert with the original write up, that is fantastic. Great work guys. Much appriciated.

[HondaFan81]

Yea, I have had these photos for a while now and decided to put them to good use. I saw no point in making another DIY, when ACCORDianate already had a well-written DIY, just needed some more photos is all. I bet I'll get a few comments on how dirty my engine bay area is lol, but the car has 274,000 miles on it and I'm not going to spend the time in cleaning it up, other than maintaining it. It's not worth it on that car.

[ACCORDianate]

I bet I'll get a few comments on how dirty my engine bay area is...

Wow! What a dirty engine bay! j/k

Nice addition. Well done. Very, very cool.

[HondaFan81]

Wow! What a dirty engine bay! j/k

Nice addition. Well done. Very, very cool.

Glad you like it, I was waiting for your comments. I was in no way trying to steal your glory or whatnot, just trying to improve this DIY like I mentioned to you before with more photos I happen to take.

[Michalob]

Yep, gonna be doing this project on the weekend! also a very needed valve adjustment. i cant wait! Thanks for the write also!

just a side note if ya feel like putting this at the top of the DIY. the fel pro gasket set (comes with gromets, valve cover gasket, bottom and top tube seals) part # is VS50365R

[Michalob]

Just finsihed the job today. me and my pal dave worked on it all day. took some time but thats because it was freezing outside! valve adjustment took awhile too because it was both our first times, on a SOHC...lol. his teg was easier from what he said.

Car runs great though. i gotta head and grab some oil, a lil low, nothing bad though. No more diesel out it and runs sooo much smoother! thanks for the DIY guys. hopefully no more oil in sprak pulg tubes anymore either!

[NoSloCB7]

Yeah...the SOHC's do seem a bit more difficult...mainly a space issue

[FishyMan]

Hello guys,

I have some questions.
Did you guys use sealant for the valve cover gaskets?

When you guys talk about having a 2nd person holding the trans end, do you guys mean near the 4th valve? I don't know where the bearing cap is to hold the cam down. As you can tell, I have my timing belt on, so therefore the tension is created. I just d k exactly where I should watch out and where the bearing cap is located.

Is it number 8? in the sequence.

Thanks..

[FishyMan]

anybody??

thanks.. wanna do this.

[FishyMan]

/?? come one peeps.. help a fellow noob outs..