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Old 01-13-2018, 09:32 AM   #21
fleetw00d
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Latest part number for the TCM is 28100-PX0-823. I have one if you need one.

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Old 01-15-2018, 10:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
Fleetw00d is right on this. My '93 SE has a broken passenger side front spring right at the front of the perch.
I'll have to check that out, along with the TCU whenever it gets warm. It's friggin cold outside and my back is messing with me. I'm in no condition to be picking the yard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
Latest part number for the TCM is 28100-PX0-823. I have one if you need one.
I thought it was called TCU? In any case please PM me how much you need to ship it my way.

I'm also looking for a negative battery cable, if anyone has one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by excalibur02 View Post
wow broken crank pulley bolt! that sucks. I would have been so upset..

All your work is great! ever think of doing some OEM upgrades? f22a6 intake manifold?
Nah, not too much mechanically; not right now anyway. My main focus was getting it running and getting everything functional again, which I have for the most part. I had the itch to grab a later PCU(M)? and cam because I had the head off anyway, but I figured I wanted to make sure it would run reliably first. Now I'm just chasing extra things like lighting, funny noises, cosmetic stuff, getting the suspension tip top, etc.

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Old 01-18-2018, 04:52 PM   #23
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Over the past couple days the car has been intermittently just dying on the road. I've been able to restart, but only after turning the key all the way off and trying again. I just went out to start it up and now it won't even start.

I'm getting a code 15 for Ignition Output Signal. So I'll be going to get a new ICM soon from Vatozone or somewhere. In the meantime if you have a known good one I'll buy it from you for a backup since the aftermarket ones aren't as reliable.


**I spoke too soon. When reassembling everything after the cylinder head replacement I'd neglected to replace one of the electrical connectors that the PO had broken, probably when replacing the dizzy before. I reconnected it and zip tied it up and it starts up and runs just fine now.

Last edited by wtfisafleek; 01-18-2018 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 01-18-2018, 05:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfisafleek View Post
I thought it was called TCU?
Control unit, control module, it's all the same thing. Different brands have different names for things, and depending on who you learned from, you'll pick up different ideas of what to call them. There are actually several different acronyms for the engine computer. See, you're using PCM, and most of us here are used to ECU (engine control unit).
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Old 01-19-2018, 11:50 AM   #25
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Makes sense to get the car in tip top shape before modifying. That cam and the pt6 ecu would benefit for later like you said.
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Old 01-19-2018, 03:00 PM   #26
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That's about the gist of it excalibur.

So it wasn't that connector after all. I went for a donut run this morning, and the damn thing died on me three times on the way there and back, about a 2 mile run or so.

I went to Autozone last night and got an ICM for the distributor. Looks like I needed it after all. After fighting a stuck rotor I was able to swap it out. After a short run around I think it may be fixed, fingers crossed.

Up next, whenever time allows: upper/lower control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, shock upper cushion/hat, and driver's door window run.
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Old 01-19-2018, 03:51 PM   #27
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Moog yes!

Driveworks tie rods actually didnt work for my cb. Didnt have enough threads to get a good alignment.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:03 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfisafleek View Post
Up next, whenever time allows: upper/lower control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, shock upper cushion/hat, and driver's door window run.
Did you get the run channel new (OEM), aftermarket, or good used?


Officially (Majestic's site) it is ATCU (automatic transmission control unit) and ECM (engine control module)

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Old 01-22-2018, 08:19 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by excalibur02 View Post
Moog yes!

Driveworks tie rods actually didnt work for my cb. Didnt have enough threads to get a good alignment.
I'll have to make sure and compare them before I try and install.
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:20 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
Did you get the run channel new (OEM), aftermarket, or good used?
)
Seeing how intricate the design is, I went with OEM. I wasn't aware they were made in the aftermarket.
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Old 02-13-2018, 04:35 PM   #31
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Just a little update on my gas mileage. I bought 12 gallons of gas today and by my math I got almost exactly 25mpg, which seems a little low. However, my suspension is pretty worn and out of adjustment judging by my tires wear pattern. Also, there's been a couple days when traffic on the highway slowed to a crawl so I didn't get the mileage boost from that.
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Old 02-18-2018, 10:16 PM   #32
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I replaced the factory stereo yesterday with a top-of-the-line (for 1998) Alpine. I was going to scour Ebay for a factory style that worked and didn't play Ozzy Osbourne tapes backwards but my friend just gave me this one. All in I think I spent $50 on an adapter harness et al.
It sounds great, is super configurable, and the best part, it fixed the problem with sound crapping out of the passenger side speaker. Not to mention the bass and treble are clear at much higher volume levels. With the original stereo it would start to hiss and distort.
I also ordered some Moog outer tie rods since Driveline's are apparently crap, as well as a window regulator and other suspension rubber bits I missed.
I can't wait to rebuild this suspension and have a good feel for the road.
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Old 03-12-2018, 04:16 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfisafleek View Post
That's about the gist of it excalibur.

So it wasn't that connector after all. I went for a donut run this morning, and the damn thing died on me three times on the way there and back, about a 2 mile run or so.

I went to Autozone last night and got an ICM for the distributor. Looks like I needed it after all. After fighting a stuck rotor I was able to swap it out. After a short run around I think it may be fixed, fingers crossed.

Up next, whenever time allows: upper/lower control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, shock upper cushion/hat, and driver's door window run.
moog is great stuff. did they come with the greasable fittings?
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Old 03-12-2018, 11:51 PM   #34
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Yes, the Moog tie rods are greasable. Upper control arm ones are not.

In other news, I went to another jy the other day and they had 6 cb7s, I was so happy. Not only that, the yard was way flatter than the others I'd been to and paved with loose gravel. All the cars were set on old wheels and had plenty of space between them so they were easy to get in and out of. And the best part, no rattlesnakes!!

I was able to get both front door seals, two shift lock solenoids, fasteners for my front splash guard, and the driver's door window sash. I didn't grab them, but they had an airbox lid I wanted solely because it still had the factory stickers on it, as well as a nice straight hood on one of them. Most of them had great headlights. I'm probably going to go back for the seat belt motor assembly I found in one of the cars that seemed ok, and someone had already removed it to boot! I have the sinking feeling it won't be there when I go back....

All in all it was a good trip. I'm going to rent a rug cleaner and clean my carpet asap, then get to work replacing all the interior parts I took out to remove the seatbelts for rewebbing. They should be back Thursday.
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Last edited by wtfisafleek; 03-13-2018 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:46 PM   #35
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Update: I replaced the TCU and the gear shifter is working correctly, as well as the "S" light. Now that this is knocked out I'll be switching focus to the suspension shortly.
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Old 04-26-2018, 05:23 PM   #36
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Keep up the good work!
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:43 AM   #37
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Nice work here !!
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:28 AM   #38
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Thanks for the encouragement guys. It's almost to the point where I can drive it every day and not have all these lingering thoughts in the back of my mind about what might break next, or what preventive maintenance might need to be addressed.

I dropped it off with a friend this past weekend. He works as a mechanic for one of the garbage truck companies and said he can go through the HVAC for me today and get it up to snuff. It's cooling, just not very well. So I'm hoping since there's some refrigerant in the system that it will hold a charge and that there's no leaks, if it is in fact just low.

Best case scenario I'll have it back tomorrow and can start work on the suspension if we're not getting more rain.

Oh and I went through a tank of gas and got 27mpg, so things are looking up!
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:34 PM   #39
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I started working rebuilding the driver's side of the front suspension a couple days ago and just finished this evening. Everything save for the radius rod bushings has been replaced.

I'm also adding a set of Vigor rotors, calipers, and pads; you can see the first one done here. Beefy, eh? Once I got the knuckle off of the car it felt like the hub bearings were still pretty good with no slop to them. But I figured it would save me time and give me peace of mind just to replace them with the hub all at once. Once I get the other side's components replaced I just need to bleed the calipers and I'll be done with this piece of work.

On a side note, I picked up a middle console that's in pretty good shape. I'm going to send it to an upholsterer and get it covered with something that won't get ripped up by my dog since I know he'll make it his perch.

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Last edited by wtfisafleek; 05-20-2018 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 05-30-2018, 07:33 PM   #40
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Ok so everything is done. Observations: the Vigor brakes feel so much better. Way less squishy than my originals. After seeing how one of my slide pins was stuck in the caliper, I'm not sure I can make a valid comparison. In any case they feel great.

The passenger side tie rod was bad, replaced it and the driver's side.

All front ball joints were replaced.

My driver's side LCA bushing was about 50% gone, passenger was fine but radius rod attachment bolt threads were stripped so it got replaced too. Handling feels tighter, but bump reactions are still harsh on abrupt imperfections. Springs are unbroken.

Speaking of balljoints...what's this?


That's not a cotter pin!


I needed new tires too since the old ones were down to the wire, so I got some new Contis mounted after an alignment. Damn new tires feel great!

I also adjusted the hood latch, as it was holding the hood up a bit too high. I also noticed the clips for the grille were gone, so I've got those on order as well.

Maybe if I get off this work call soon I can install my newly upholstered console.

Up next: a wash!!
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