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Old 12-05-2017, 01:17 AM   #1
CB7xBB4
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Question should my uca's be visible at stock height?

Hi everyone my name is David im new to cb7's i'm coming from a bb4 lude, well anyway i kinda fell into this car i got it for free as a gift and i fell in love with it, its a 92 ex sedan and im loving having 4 doors man but i noticed something and it hasn't sat right with me the car is stock everything and it looks it but i noticed that my rear uca's are peaking passed the wheel well so i can see them im not sure if this is right or if my uca or other composites are damaged, im hopping not as i was hopping this car would allow me to start working better paying job now that i can travel.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:57 AM   #2
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No, that is not correct. Especially in the rear. So if you jack up one front corner does the rear UCA on the opposite site hit the fender?

Or show us a pic.
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:50 AM   #3
talonted1990
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My uca's are peeking out on my accord also, but my car has bigger wheels with lower profile tires than stock and it is not lowered.
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Old 12-05-2017, 05:30 PM   #4
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None of that matters. The UCA is attached to the body. It tucks under the fender. Unless you are using rear UCA spacers (which is probably not possible), can't explain why UCA would hit the fender.

pic below has aftermarket UCA but you get the point
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:41 PM   #5
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He's not talking about contacting the fender, just showing out underneath. That's completely normal.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:21 AM   #6
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no it doesn't hit the fender, the car is stock height untouched, when i take a turn to hard or im going up the on ramp to the freeway to fast i noticed the uca's do rub my tires a little though. my phone is broken that why no photo sorry.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:23 AM   #7
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also when lowering w/ lowering shocks and springs should i replace the uca's? will the stock ones work?
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Old 12-06-2017, 09:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
None of that matters. The UCA is attached to the body. It tucks under the fender. Unless you are using rear UCA spacers (which is probably not possible), can't explain why UCA would hit the fender.
I'm sorry I should have said at times you can see the castle nut peeking from the fender. I just figured I could not see it before because of the tires that were on the car before.
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Old 12-06-2017, 01:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB7xBB4 View Post
no it doesn't hit the fender, the car is stock height untouched, when i take a turn to hard or im going up the on ramp to the freeway to fast i noticed the uca's do rub my tires a little though. my phone is broken that why no photo sorry.
Its not the UCAs. As you can see from the photo above, the UCA sits ABOVE the curved part of the knuckle. Meaning it will NEVER touch the tires. When the suspension gets compressed, the UCA will move up as well, so there is no contact. If you think about it, the whole knuckle with the brakes, control arms, and everything else is moving up and down WITH the wheel, so none of that will ever rub on the wheel. If you are rubbing while under hard/fast cornering, chances are your tires are coming into contact with your plastic fender liners, or something else in the wheel wells. Check those to see if any part is loose or hanging low.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CB7xBB4 View Post
also when lowering w/ lowering shocks and springs should i replace the uca's? will the stock ones work?
Accords have a double wishbone suspension design. It is not required to replace the UCAs when lowering the car. However, the UCAs are what control the camber adjustment on the suspension. Stock ones are not adjustable. So when you lower the car, you will gain some negative camber. As long as you only lower the car a reasonable amount, you really don't need to get adjustable UCAs. A little extra camber will not significantly impact your tire wear, as long as the car remains properly aligned, and the toe is in spec. Now, if you plan on dropping the car a good amount (2in+ range or so), that is when it is a good time to consider camber kits, as your negative camber will increase enough to were you may start experiencing tire wear.

As far as brands go, stay away from cheap generic kits. You get what you pay for. For the rear, SPC Performance is the only good kit still available. Make sure you get their curved version of their UCA arms, like so:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...a/model/accord

For the front, there are two different styles of kits, anchor bolts and adjustable ball joints. Both use the stock UCA, but replace different parts with adjustable ones. There are pros and cons to each design, so its really up to the users preference. Brand wise, Ingalls and SPC are the ones to stick to. Some make more than one kit with different adjustment ranges, so you have to pick and choose what you need for your specific situation.

Last edited by Corweena; 12-06-2017 at 01:13 PM.
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