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SUSP: ABS removal.

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    SUSP: ABS removal.

    ok this is my first DIY so sorry if it sucks i just got finished doing my car. after several hours of work im going to say i dont reccomend doing this. it was alot of work, and ABS is put there for a reason. i take no responsibility if you do this and kill yourself cause you have no abs or something.

    i had a few reasons why i did this. my abs doesnt work (needed a new abs modulator), i wanted a cleaner engine bay, i was putting wagon brakes on the front and had non abs knuckles and since the wheel bearings in the knuckles on my car were frozen in i couldnt have used them anyway, and the weight lost doesnt hurt either.

    if you still want to do this then here we go...

    part you will need:

    90-93 integra proportioning valve
    2 front brake lines from a non-abs cb7 (they are a pain to get out if the motor is in the car, luckily i found a car with out the engine)
    2 lines going into the master cylinder
    proportioning valve from the donor cb7 (optional)
    i also got a new master cylinder as mine was bad, this is not nessecary.



    tools you will need:
    10mm flare nut wrench
    basic had tools (air tools, as always are helpful)
    double flaring tool (you can rent this at autozone like i did)
    tubing cutter (autozone, less then $10)

    basically all you have to do is pull all the abs crap out of the car. pull off your intake pipe, and battery to make room. i started with the abs modulator, there are 3 12mm bolts on the bottom of it, there is really no easy way to get them so just keep trying. after you get the bottom bolts out then you can pull all the lines off. be carefull when pulling the line going to the pump as there will be pressure in there. i sprayed myself in the eye

    after all the lines are undone you can pull the modulator out and move to the front of the car and pull out the pump. the pump and modulator are held on with some random brackets you can pull off and add to the pile.

    now move over to the master cylinder and pull the 2 lines going into it off. then look down below the master cylinder and you will see a H-shaped thing with lines going into it, unhook all those lines and unbolt that as well. i had my master cylinder off which may or may not make it easier.

    now the fun part, getting all those lines out, there are 3 brackets that hold the lines to the firewall unbolt those. you will probably need to pull the fuel filter, vaccume box, and canister out of the way. once you have the lines all undone i dont really have an easy way to get them out of the car, i just got under the car and started yanking on them. i also dropped the rear crossmember so i had more space. when everything was out i tucked the abs wiring where ever i could so it wasnt just hanging there.

    once all the lines are out you should have a pile that looks like this.


    make sure you get the abs control unit in the trunk just forward of the jack.

    now, you have to do a little work before you can start putting stuff back in. take one of the lines you removed with the larger size flare nut and cut the line with the tubing cutter. once its cut through pull the flare nut off and get the new line you got that goes into the back whole on the master cylinder. push the flare nut going that goes into the master cylinder back on the line as far as you can. cut this line as close to the end of it as you can. pull the smaller flare nut off and put the larger one off your old lines on. now you take the double flaring tool and flare out the end on this line. you may need to bend the line straight to get the tool on the end of it, this is fine just be very careful not to kink the line bending it.

    now what i did was i took the braket on the accord prop valve and put it on the integra unit. the bolt that hold it together are tamperproof but with a little time they can be taken out with a pair of vice grips, just be carful on the integra unit not to have both bolts out at the same time or it will come apart and most likely be pretty hard to get back together. the accord unit, doesnt matter, i only got that for the bracket on it. you can replace the tamperproof bolts with regular 10mm bolts.

    next thing to do is feeding the new pass line in, really no easy way to do this either, just be careful not to kink the line. the driverside line is fairly simple to get in. then put your new prop valve in, hook up all the lines including the 2 going to the master cylinder. replace everything you took off the car, bleed your brakes, and take it for a test drive, make sure you stay off ice.

    #2
    thanks for the heads up, im sure this will come in handy for someone pondering it.


    "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
    "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
    "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

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      #3
      I'm happy my abs works because I wouldnt be doing that shit Joe.....and it seems you wouldnt do it again on my car if I asked
      1993 Accord LX - Sold
      93 BMW 525it - SOLD
      92 Accord EX Sedan - SOLD
      2000 Accord Coupe - Traded-In
      2003 Accord V6 6spd Coupe - Sold
      2001 Honda Civic Ex - SOLD
      2013 Chevy Traverse LTZ - Kid hauler
      2003 Acura Tl 3.2 - Daily Commuter

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by driftt View Post

        part you will need:

        90-93 integra proportioning valve
        2 front brake lines from a non-abs cb7 (they are a pain to get out if the motor is in the car, luckily i found a car with out the engine)
        2 lines going into the master cylinder
        proportioning valve from the donor cb7 (optional)
        i also got a new master cylinder as mine was bad, this is not nessecary.



        why did you say proportioning valve from a donor cb7? you already have the teg prop valve so the other one from the cb7 isnt necessary.

        and you also have to make sure your master cylinder is non abs. you can also get this from a cb or brand new (recommended).

        nice write up. i started to write it up but all my pictures got erased. finally some1 put this up here

        alone in this game . ::My Ride My Way::

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by tear2wo View Post
          why did you say proportioning valve from a donor cb7? you already have the teg prop valve so the other one from the cb7 isnt necessary.

          and you also have to make sure your master cylinder is non abs. you can also get this from a cb or brand new (recommended).

          nice write up. i started to write it up but all my pictures got erased. finally some1 put this up here
          Its been here since 2006 Isaac(sp)
          1993 Accord LX - Sold
          93 BMW 525it - SOLD
          92 Accord EX Sedan - SOLD
          2000 Accord Coupe - Traded-In
          2003 Accord V6 6spd Coupe - Sold
          2001 Honda Civic Ex - SOLD
          2013 Chevy Traverse LTZ - Kid hauler
          2003 Acura Tl 3.2 - Daily Commuter

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by The_Great_Pretender View Post
            Its been here since 2006 Isaac(sp)
            holy shit i swear i searched abs removal and this thread didnt even pop up. didnt even bother to look at the date lmao this wouldve helped me alot 5 months ago.

            alone in this game . ::My Ride My Way::

            Comment


              #7
              You need a CB prop valve so you can transfer the bracket from it to the teg valve.
              1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser

              1986 Chevrolet C10|5.3L|SM465|Shortbed|Custom Deluxe

              1983 Malibu Wagon|TPI 305|T5 5 speed|3.73 non-posi


              1992 Accord Wagon (RETIRED)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Accrdwgnguy View Post
                You need a CB prop valve so you can transfer the bracket from it to the teg valve.
                o0o. well i never used the bracket. just left it like that. i did my removal all ghetto lol instead of unscrewing the brake lines from the abs unit i took some huge ass scissors and cut them. lol.

                once again this write up wouldve helped me alot

                alone in this game . ::My Ride My Way::

                Comment


                  #9
                  not bad bro some people have asked me if i know how to do this and i said no.... now i can say..... i have an idea....lol
                  DELTA CAM GROUP BUY
                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSbCQuhAnNcla gringa pt.1
                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMz-F2saG_ola gringa pt.2

                  Comment


                    #10
                    So its a good thing I bumped this thread huh?
                    1993 Accord LX - Sold
                    93 BMW 525it - SOLD
                    92 Accord EX Sedan - SOLD
                    2000 Accord Coupe - Traded-In
                    2003 Accord V6 6spd Coupe - Sold
                    2001 Honda Civic Ex - SOLD
                    2013 Chevy Traverse LTZ - Kid hauler
                    2003 Acura Tl 3.2 - Daily Commuter

                    Comment


                      #11
                      yes bc i been thinking about this as well. i dont understand why u have to change the flare on the lines although. especially if u use a non abs master cyl. anyone know the lines part number? i was just going to get new. 90/91 non abs lines work on a 92 fine right?
                      Last edited by kc8enb07; 02-21-2009, 04:17 PM.

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                        #12
                        Bout time I find this to help me. My abs pump went out and it's just takin up space and adding weight.
                        Members Ride sold...
                        I'm back...... with a coupe. oh boy here we go.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yes, 90/91 DX/LX lines work just fine in the 92/93, I have 91 LX lines in my 93EX, for example. The reason why you should reflare the 1 odd ABS fitting onto the corresponding DX/LX line is b/c you would be downgrading by installing a DX/LX M/C (7/8"?). You should keep your ABS M/C (15/16"), it's bigger and is more suited for 4 wheel disk. Plus, vtechno has run into issues w/ mismatching his EX booster w/ an DX/LX m/c, I've never compared booster po's before, IDK. Plus, by keeping the EX m/c in there, when that goes out, you can move up to the Prelude VTEC m/c (1"), would still be a direct fit. A single flare is fine for transferring the fitting over, no real need for a double flare. It was time consuming but well worth it

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Well this right up is on the money it helped out a lot. I just finished up ripping all of my ABS crap out of my 92EX. It is awesome having brakes that don't leak and work good again.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I want to do this BAD....


                              1990 Accord LX Sedan~Sold
                              1993 Accord EX Sedan~Sold
                              1995 Suzuki GSX-R 750~Totaled

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