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Old 02-22-2011, 01:12 PM   #81
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You know, to be totally honest, I didn't even consider that someone would NOT secure their car before getting under it.

And yeah, I pulled my axle out without a prob...
If you beat the axle loose from the hub and it is stuck in the intermediate shaft... really the only thing to do is pry it loose.
Perhaps using a big flat head screw driver and elbow grease?
I'd think whatever works, as long as you don't damage that intermediate shaft.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:56 PM   #82
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As far as the various comments about muscle being important to (just about anything, but specifically to, say, removing the axle nut, I prefer clear technique and skillful application of leverage to muscle any day of the week. A four to 5 foot long steel bar slipped over your 1/2 inch breaker bar will break just any axle nut free and only costs like $10 at the local hardware store. All this preceded an hour before by a spray of PB Blast.
I use a two foot pipe I found. Slide it over the end of a quality ratchet(with lifetime warranty) and there's more leverage. you can even jump on it if muscles don't work.

As far as pulling the CV out. don't waste energy pulling it by hand. I use a big flathead screwdriver every single time. pry it out and voila. as far as putting it back in, I've never heard of someone hammering their CV in place. That doesn't sound kosher to me. I've never had to do that. I just push it in till it clicks and i can't pull it back out again with a couple yanks on the inner joint housing. All that holds it in place is a circlip. the wheels will keep it from popping out. That's why you have to seperate the lower ball joint. it will not come out with the steering knuckle still attached to the lower control arm.

Don't hammer your cv into your transmission. Why would you beat on your transmission like that? it wont pop out with the knuckle back on.

Geoff... smh... are you trolling here? That really sounds like a troll statement. Why don't you hammer your transmission shaft into the clutch? DON'T HAMMER THE CV INTO PLACE. Just line up the splines and push until it pops in. Don't worry about it popping out. It wont with the knuckle holding it in place.

Don't make things too complicated guys. LadyG's tutorial was sufficient. Remember whatever you do, leverage is better than muscle any day. There is more power in my ratchet & pipe than my air-hammer could ever deliver.
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:21 PM   #83
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Perhaps the "Muscle Comments" happen because some of us are seriously lacking. (such as myself 5'3"@102lbs) Cheater bars work, but you still have to ass it. You work with what you got!

NO HAMMER is required for the CV to go into place.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:07 PM   #84
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Size does not equal strength honey. Bigger is not always better. Bruce Lee was like 5'6" and 120lbs. He could overpower me if he was still alive. I'm 5'11" and 170lbs. He would overpower everyone I know to be honest.

The whole reason I put down the muscle comments is exactly what you said. People lacking in muscular strength are not going to beast the inner joint out of the transmission. Mechanical advantage is everyone's friend. Even if I can beast on something, I prefer to take it easy using leverage every time, over yelling and flexing like a madman.
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Old 04-02-2011, 01:09 AM   #85
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The reason that the axle is tough to put into the trans, and stays in, is the little c-clip towards the end of the splines. MAKE SURE THAT CLIP IS THERE BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE AXLE. The axle will fall out if its not there, happened to my dads CRX.

The painless balljiont separation method has always worked for me, I don't even have to kick it. I just lower the jack and it pops! You gotta wedge the tall side of the 1/2" ratchet handle in-between the knuckle and control arm. Pickle fork is not meant for Hondas, I've broken one trying.
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Old 04-07-2011, 11:31 PM   #86
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Nofx!!!!
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Old 04-08-2011, 12:33 AM   #87
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you can also use a two-jaw puller and push up on the ball joint screw, but if done wrong you will shroom the nut
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Old 04-08-2011, 02:17 PM   #88
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I have an easy way to remove the lower ball joint. I've done it for both my accord axles and 2 of the driver axles in my s2000 when I broke them.


While the car is suspended on jack stands, take your jack, put a block of wood on it. Jack up the rotor a few inches. With this, it takes about 3 hammer hits on the lower control arm and the ball joint separates easily.
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:52 PM   #89
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I have an easy way to remove the lower ball joint. I've done it for both my accord axles and 2 of the driver axles in my s2000 when I broke them.


While the car is suspended on jack stands, take your jack, put a block of wood on it. Jack up the rotor a few inches. With this, it takes about 3 hammer hits on the lower control arm and the ball joint separates easily.
"painless ball joint separation" lol
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it will go vrooooooom bauggggghhhh mmmmmmaauuugggg. Still no mmmmmbAAAAAAAUUUHHHHHHH though.
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:34 PM   #90
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"painless ball joint separation" lol
huh?
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:38 AM   #91
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Anybody know if the tasauto axles are any good?
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:15 AM   #92
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I have never heard of tasauto.

But when it comes to premium axles there is something you should keep in mind.
How do you drive?
I am an aggressive corner-er, I hate to brake, I downshift to slow down into a corner. I will not spend more than necessary for axles, because I expect to change them yearly.

There are better things to buy with that money than CV axles.
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:31 AM   #93
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huh?
you'r easier way to remove ball joints is what has been getting discussed here lol

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I have never heard of tasauto.
really? even with the huge banner on top of the forum lol


i don't know about TAS' axles, i bought mine brand new from kragen/o'rilley for $70 a pop
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it will go vrooooooom bauggggghhhh mmmmmmaauuugggg. Still no mmmmmbAAAAAAAUUUHHHHHHH though.
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Old 04-15-2011, 02:21 PM   #94
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LOL, I guess I just never noticed it!

Yeah, 70 is about average. (after core refund)
I just wouldn't spend 100+ for an axle... But to be fair, I have never priced axles outside of a parts store environment.
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:25 PM   #95
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Lol I'm not an aggresive driver but do hav my moments, they have them for 70$ new each side no core refund, its just been clickin/shutterin when I turn left or hit a bump n I feel it on my steering wheel or even when I brake hard. So I wanna get both axles n plan to use this
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Old 04-16-2011, 05:14 PM   #96
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LOL, I guess I just never noticed it!

Yeah, 70 is about average. (after core refund)
I just wouldn't spend 100+ for an axle... But to be fair, I have never priced axles outside of a parts store environment.
kragen doesn't have a core charge for the new ones, only for the reman's
i re-built my old ones and sold em on craigslist lol
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it will go vrooooooom bauggggghhhh mmmmmmaauuugggg. Still no mmmmmbAAAAAAAUUUHHHHHHH though.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:10 AM   #97
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I emailed tasauto, they said ther axles are made by "A1 Cardone" O_o
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Old 08-24-2011, 07:48 AM   #98
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bump for usability.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:37 PM   #99
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I've been seeing a lot of bad CV axle threads! Bump for viewing!
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Old 02-15-2012, 03:55 PM   #100
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Bump to ensure Noobs can Yoose.
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