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build a refurbished f22 or build an old one?

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    #1

    build a refurbished f22 or build an old one?

    The engine I have in my 92 coup EX runs great, has over 200,000 miles on it and doesn't burn any oil. It does have a slow leak and I just can't find it. Some people say to buy an engine that needs work for $50 and build it the way I like it. Or, I could by a refurbished f22a6 for $800 and add the performance parts to it. It seems to me like you could easily spend $750 on parts just to make an old engine "refurbished" plus all the time, and I don't think I have the technical know how to rebuild an old engine. I do have the Haynes manual for the 90-93 CB7 which is probably the best thing I have ever bought for $20. I have replaced the front rotors. What a job that was. I had to dismantle the entire front end it seemed and take out the upper control arm and pull the hub. I've installed H&R springs and Koni struts, installed my own stereo, but that's about it. I am planning to go turbo, installing a light weight fly wheel, a cam, and maybe an ACT 6 puck clutch. I just need some advise, that's all. My plan is to drive with the engine I have in it and take my time building a performance engine.
    Tags: engine rebuild, engine replacement, turbo
    #2
    If you want to go turbo, your best option would be to do a proper rebuild yourself. For a refurbished engine, you're paying for new stock internals at best (and not necessarily...) A turbo will blow through those fairly quickly.

    Either learn how to build it yourself, or save and pay someone to do it for you... but for turbo, forged internals would be a very good idea. If you want to run a stock engine with the turbo to get the hang of it, do it to the 200k mile one you have now... just be prepared to have your car be down for a while when it blows uo.

    That Haynes manual is pretty lousy. Better than the Chiltons (I have both)... but if you want to do anything serious, invest in the Helm manual, which is the official Honda shop manual. It'll run you $80-$100 new, and you might be able to dig a used one up somewhere.



    Also, a lightweight flywheel isn't a great idea for turbo. Additionally, don't get a clutch just because it sounds like a high performance item. Get a clutch that is designed to hold the power your car is making. No more, no less. A "better" clutch will be wasted on a lower powered car, and will most likely cause driveability issues, as well as premature wear. Do your research before you buy. (at least you're considering a good brand... so many people look at cheap crap that's half the price, and 1/10th the performance!)






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      #3
      Originally posted by deevergote View Post


      Also, a lightweight flywheel isn't a great idea for turbo. Additionally, don't get a clutch just because it sounds like a high performance item. Get a clutch that is designed to hold the power your car is making. No more, no less. A "better" clutch will be wasted on a lower powered car, and will most likely cause driveability issues, as well as premature wear. Do your research before you buy. (at least you're considering a good brand... so many people look at cheap crap that's half the price, and 1/10th the performance!)
      Yeah, I have an ACT 13Ib flywheel and I wanna boost and hopefully it doesnt become too hard to drive. Not hard at all now, I love it. So glad I didnt get an 8Ib tho!!!

      Also have an Exedy stage 1. When I boost, I will have to keep it at 200whp max or I will likely need a stage 2.

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        #4
        13lb isn't too bad. I believe the stock one is about 18lb, if I remember correctly. 8lb would suck, though. People do it, but I wouldn't want to. The RPMs drop too quickly.

        You can keep the Stage 1 until it's dead. Depending on your power output, and how hard you beat on it, it might not take very long.






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