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Old 06-06-2011, 09:38 PM   #41
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Of course the legend had this as standard lol. Its the most expensive car honda made besides the NSX

LS 5 speed legend? Now thats rare.
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:04 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xkjnboix View Post
ya i have all my parts i just gotta figure out which pin on the white connector is ground for the ICU. when i pulled the whole interior fusebox out of the CD5 and CB7 the plug ins are in different configuration so i will have to test light it.

Hey, You dont have to swap out the entire fuse box panel... Just remove the ICU with a flat head from the fuse box panel thats original to the car.

So a11 ICU plugs right in to the CB fuse box panel... No need to do extra work and remove the entire fuse panel.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:32 PM   #43
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I just modified my 87 crx to give it variable intermittent wipers and figured a couple new things out. I now should be able to modify the stock cb7 brown icu to give it variable intermittent function.
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Old 06-10-2011, 11:15 PM   #44
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I'm confused on how the key in buzzer is wired. I see on the pigtail to move the blu/wht wire to the slot above it, but now here are my next questions: what kind of relay do i need? and where on those "L" shaped pins do I solder the relay to? anywhere?

Also, what is the black wire coming out of the relay and going under the circuit board?



For the variable wires, which wire from the pigtail (pigtail wires on right) connects to which wire from the switch (switch wires on left)?


PIN 6 IS THE WHITE/LIGHT BLUE ONE ON THE RIGHT. PIN 7 IS THE RED/YELLOW ONE ON THE RIGHT

Thank you in advance for reading this post, and I hope to hear from someone soon about this question!
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Last edited by P5ylance; 06-10-2011 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 06-11-2011, 01:51 AM   #45
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In the picture where I soldered internally is 4 and 13, for the relay to change the positive switching to negative for the key buzzer. I moved the terminal from 13 to unused slot 4. #4 connects to relay's 85 terminal, relays 86 and 87 are grounded, and relays 30 terminal connects to icu #13. The black wire is the ground which connects to on the other side of the board to the internal connector. I used a small 12v circuit board relay that fits inside the case.

You could also just put the relay external and cut the wire at pin 13, harness side goes to relay 85, icu side to relay 30, and 86,87 to ground.

It does not matter which wire from 6 and 7 connects to at the switch.
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:45 AM   #46
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oh okay thanks one more question, where'd you pick up this relay from? If i were to go to an electronics store, what would i ask for?
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:05 AM   #47
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i got an A11 ICU, now i just need the stalk switch! looking forward to gaining this functionality. i have handfuls of mini through-hole relays, shame they are all 5volt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by P5ylance View Post
oh okay thanks one more question, where'd you pick up this relay from? If i were to go to an electronics store, what would i ask for?
any 12volt relay would work, its just that 30amp automotive relays are overkill and quite large in size. an electronics store (radio shack) should have "regular" 12volt relays which tend to be much smaller, for installation onto a circuit board, or in this scenario, internal installation into the slim ICU case. lucifer1's pin numberings refer to automotive relay pin numbers, but those should be easy to match up to the diagram that comes with whatever relay you buy. a basic SPST relay is sufficient, but if you find SPDT or DPDT those would work as well. if you have an automotive relay on hand already, installing it externally works too, like lucifer1 said.
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Old 06-12-2011, 02:37 AM   #48
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thank you! I saw quite a few stalk switches, but I went with the CL one because thats the one Lucifer1 used, and I didn't wanna leave anything up to chance. it was the A11 ICU that was a doozie to find. I had to go to one of those specialty junkyard stores for the 95 v6 accord, and had to haggle em down to 65. bleh.
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:47 AM   #49
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Both my EX and LX 5th gen accord did not have that feature


The ultimate would be to retrofit the rain sensing system my BMW has... Just leave the stalk in one position and it turns on the wipers and adjusts the speed based on a metering sensor on the windshield.


To the op it is great you figured all this out ... Cant wait to see what else you "decode"
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:28 AM   #50
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This thread is so helpful, thanks.

I had JDM LHD control arm set swapped several years ago
but didn't know how to make it funtional until few months ago.
Too bad that I did not do enough homework, searching on the forum,
so that I bought 2 JDM ICUs, 38600-SM2-J1 & 38600-SV2-J100,
and none of them would do the things right...
The 38600-SV2-J010 ICU has the intermittent funtion but it will
cancel the power suply of the driver's door for window or mirror.
That's what happeded on one of my friend's car and I found
the other 2 ICUs I bought from Japan the same thing.

Another friend of mine had this funtionality realized few months ago.
He uses a 38600-SV7-A12 ICU and soldered some lacked resistors
on the board to retain the funtion on the corners.
Comparing A11 ICU with A12 you will find the difference obviously.

I bought an A12 from the US and just got it after long shipping.
I am considering of whether re-wiring or do some soldering...
Another 2 friends are also working on this.
Will try to get some pix of their DIYs to share.
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:44 PM   #51
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Am i the only one who has NO IDEA where pins 6 and 7 are???

I have read EVERYTHING and can't figure out what pins these are.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:52 PM   #52
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I ended up listening to xkjnboix and wired to pins 1 and 2 and it worked right

pins 6 and 7 did not work for me
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Old 08-31-2011, 05:09 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippey764 View Post
I ended up listening to xkjnboix and wired to pins 1 and 2 and it worked right

pins 6 and 7 did not work for me
Actually you couldn't be using 1 and 2 since those are used for other things.


You must be thinking logically and reading the numbers on the back of the actual connector. Unfortunately Honda does not use these numbers to describe pin locations on any of their wiring diagrams. Honda reads pins from the back, wire side. Start upper left as pin 1 reading left to right, top to bottom. The numbers on the connector are reading the pins from the front side of the connector.

So pins 6 and 7 are actually labeled 1 and 2 on the connector.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:07 PM   #54
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Pins 1 and 2 were blank on the accord harness

I soldered internally like you did so i internally soldered to 1 and 2 and it finally worked

I read on the back of the male connector inside the car that the pins i used were 1 and 2

When i used the ones labled 6 and 7 it did not work

I used the 2 pins on the right side on the upper row and it worked. They were labled as 1 and 2 on my car

On my car on the male connector is started with 1 in the top right corner and 7 at the left corner.

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Old 01-13-2012, 12:23 AM   #55
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^^^ Tippey bites his nails =P

just an update. the keychime on my car works and i didnt mod the A11 ICU or my stock wiring other than to add the wiper pins. I have a 93 EX. Not sure if that makes a difference or maybe someone else can confirm this. Everything else on the car functions correctly and the newer key tone is refreshing and not as annoying.

the CD5 i pulled it from had the blue and white wire in the same location as the cb7 because i cut the pigtail for a reference. this might have alot to do with it.

this is the CD5 A11 icu ( modded but not used on my cb as this is my spare ) and cd5 pigtail unmodded.
All wire lengths on the pigtail are the same length which is hard to tell by their angle but all the wires are original to the pigtail
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:40 PM   #56
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sorry but im still condused on what to connect the extra 2 wires from the new wiper arm to. i got mine off a CD5 doesnt look like you need to shave anything.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:20 PM   #58
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oh my bad sorry guys. kept reading it like that was for the chime. good diagram thanks!
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:17 PM   #59
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How do you get the stick box off without taking the whole fuse panel off? Green clip won't un clip
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:24 PM   #60
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Palm the whole thing with your right hand with your fingertips on the side closest to the firewall. Pry it towards you as if it had a hinge on the side furthest from the firewall. It will come out. Then it will dangle from the green connector and you can easily unplug it.

Remember, only the '95 Accord V6 has it.
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