boosted bisimoto bottom end build

[GhostAccord]

You may want to recheck what it is your buying. That F/IC is not an EMS, it's only for fuel and ignition. With the amount of money going into this engine. My suggestion would be to use your chipped P28 travel the 3-4 hours and get a proper tune on eCtune/Neptune Demon or Hondata S300. I would not use an F/IC piggyback hardware on this build. Do yourself a big favor and save the extra $2-$300 for piece of mind.

Engine management and a good tune is the most important part of an engine build. Aside from clearances....... You could spend $10k on an engine and without a proper tune it could be a $10k paperweight in no time.

[92Inspire]

You may want to recheck what it is your buying. That F/IC is not an EMS, it's only for fuel and ignition. With the amount of money going into this engine. My suggestion would be to use your chipped P28 travel the 3-4 hours and get a proper tune on eCtune/Neptune Demon or Hondata S300. I would not use an F/IC piggyback hardware on this build. Do yourself a big favor and save the extra $2-$300 for piece of mind.

Engine management and a good tune is the most important part of an engine build. Aside from clearances....... You could spend $10k on an engine and without a proper tune it could be a $10k paperweight in no time.

i know its not an ems thats why i put the link. an ems is about 1200 bucks. ive seen many people use the aem piggy back and get great results. almost all the shops around here have started using them as well as hondata. i am still not sure what im going to use at this point ive still got a long way to go, as of now my motor is a 6k dollar paperweight. most likely i will end up using the ecu i already have but like i said theres a lot more work to be done. thanks for the input and support ghost accord.

sweet machine work!

woohooooo 4,600 posts for me

the machine shop i used is the best in town and i know most of the guys there. lol thanks for using me for your post roll over. thanks again and stay tuned

[rexload]

i know its not an ems thats why i put the link. an ems is about 1200 bucks. ive seen many people use the aem piggy back and get great results. almost all the shops around here have started using them as well as hondata. i am still not sure what im going to use at this point ive still got a long way to go, as of now my motor is a 6k dollar paperweight. most likely i will end up using the ecu i already have but like i said theres a lot more work to be done. thanks for the input and support ghost accord.

umm Crome is free and eCtune is $199, both are 1,000,000 times better than "the hack" way of tuning. I haven't seen anyone use an AFC hack in the Honda world in at least 5-6 years... just my .02

[GhostAccord]

The AEM F/I C is not exactly a hack. Sure it is a piggyback fuel and ignition controller. However, it is leagues ahead of the old SFAC/VFAC or whatever that shyte was. It reconditions the stock ECU signals very well and has other control functions as well. I'd still take a chipped ECU over one though! These were really for the guys that had to remain stock OBD2 for emissions reasons. it is fully CAN-BUS compliant... Meaning that the code reader can't see it...lol

[Julio@Bisimoto]

i know its not an ems thats why i put the link. an ems is about 1200 bucks. ive seen many people use the aem piggy back and get great results. almost all the shops around here have started using them as well as hondata. i am still not sure what im going to use at this point ive still got a long way to go, as of now my motor is a 6k dollar paperweight. most likely i will end up using the ecu i already have but like i said theres a lot more work to be done. thanks for the input and support ghost accord.

I just sent you a pm

The AEM F/I C is not exactly a hack. Sure it is a piggyback fuel and ignition controller. However, it is leagues ahead of the old SFAC/VFAC or whatever that shyte was. It reconditions the stock ECU signals very well and has other control functions as well. I'd still take a chipped ECU over one though! These were really for the guys that had to remain stock OBD2 for emissions reasons. it is fully CAN-BUS compliant... Meaning that the code reader can't see it...lol

The AEM F/IC is a good system but would only recommend for setups that can not use a AEM EMS V2 being that the F/IC will be a bit limited on tunablity being you can not modify rev-limit.

With the AEM EMS it will be a plug and play to your factory harness with no modfications and will be able to have total control over your fuel ignition maps as well as a ton of other great features like boost controller functions, wide band uego datalogging, coil on plug support, 8 injector drivers and much more.

Hey i didnt get a license plate thingy when k got my rods from bisi. What gives?!lol. JULIO!
Anyway. Looks like we both doing the same thing man. You just ahead of me right nw. Keep at it!

LOL sorry buddy wish I had shipped the package I would have hooked you up. Talk to me next time you place an order and I will make sure I will get one out to you

[92Inspire]

ARP mains, head studs and bisimoto 86 mm 5 layer head gasket just arrived today!!!! Ordering ecu next friday, clutch the next. Will post pics when the ecu or clutch arrives. Should have the head and block married within the month.

[ON_N20]

ARP mains, head studs and bisimoto 86 mm 5 layer head gasket just arrived today!!!! Ordering ecu next friday, clutch the next. Will post pics when the ecu or clutch arrives. Should have the head and block married within the month.

The engine build looks great! I have the same pistons in my build and ran them for about a year - I bout mine straigt through Arias but they are basically the same, same CR too. I will caution you though, the first time my engine ran with these pistons I ended up cracking a sleeve straight down the middle. I'll go take a pic in a few mins and post it up to show. The pistons are 86mm, which takes quite a bit off the cylinder wall of the stock block, it takes alot of the ductile iron away which is where the rigidity is at. You'll have to take it easy with what you have, you have essentially a bullet-proof rotating assembly, but your engine block is weaker than stock - exactly what I did when I built mine originally unfortunatly. It kind of defeats the purpose of the better internals.

Also as far as the turbo goes, it looks to be in good shape, but yes everyone is right it is a bit small. You can run it however, but it will run out of airflow well before 5,000 RPM. This is where datalogging and full tuning capabilities would help alot, because if you could moniter your A/F ratio's and intake air temps at the intake, that would help alot to make your build last with that turbo. I personally ran my DSM setup for about a year, I used the first gen eclipse manifold, and 14b turbo. Boost would start easily at around 2k RPM's and it would run out of breath by around 5k RPM's. It was perfect for a daily driver though, since the lag was almost non-existent, and I was able to produce quite a bit of power. But I had excellent home tuning capabilites, and I was always closely monitering my A/F ratios and intake temps especially.

Definatly look into ECU tuning, it will take you alot further, while playing it alot safer, and allowing your build to last. I think I ended up spending about $900 on moates.com on a single order, but I bought injectors, a real time emulator (in place of tuning a chip everytime - belive me the emulater is a god-send, instant tuning in your hands), datalogging cable, and a nice Wideband A/F gauge with A/F datalogging. I basically taught myself how to tune, and was able to make myself a very stable tune that I use now. I should add that I also later bought Crome Pro- which just expands on the free edition, and allowed me to use my datalogging cable - that helped a ton!

Anyway enough rambling on , your build is looking great just take the advice for what it is, your build resembles mine alot, and now im in the process of rebuilding my engine due to a cracked sleeve. Non-the-less I'm glad to see you choose a good rotating assembly, as well as the headwork. Looking good .

[92Inspire]

The engine build looks great! I have the same pistons in my build and ran them for about a year - I bout mine straigt through Arias but they are basically the same, same CR too. I will caution you though, the first time my engine ran with these pistons I ended up cracking a sleeve straight down the middle. I'll go take a pic in a few mins and post it up to show. The pistons are 86mm, which takes quite a bit off the cylinder wall of the stock block, it takes alot of the ductile iron away which is where the rigidity is at. You'll have to take it easy with what you have, you have essentially a bullet-proof rotating assembly, but your engine block is weaker than stock - exactly what I did when I built mine originally unfortunatly. It kind of defeats the purpose of the better internals.

Also as far as the turbo goes, it looks to be in good shape, but yes everyone is right it is a bit small. You can run it however, but it will run out of airflow well before 5,000 RPM. This is where datalogging and full tuning capabilities would help alot, because if you could moniter your A/F ratio's and intake air temps at the intake, that would help alot to make your build last with that turbo. I personally ran my DSM setup for about a year, I used the first gen eclipse manifold, and 14b turbo. Boost would start easily at around 2k RPM's and it would run out of breath by around 5k RPM's. It was perfect for a daily driver though, since the lag was almost non-existent, and I was able to produce quite a bit of power. But I had excellent home tuning capabilites, and I was always closely monitering my A/F ratios and intake temps especially.

Definatly look into ECU tuning, it will take you alot further, while playing it alot safer, and allowing your build to last. I think I ended up spending about $900 on moates.com on a single order, but I bought injectors, a real time emulator (in place of tuning a chip everytime - belive me the emulater is a god-send, instant tuning in your hands), datalogging cable, and a nice Wideband A/F gauge with A/F datalogging. I basically taught myself how to tune, and was able to make myself a very stable tune that I use now. I should add that I also later bought Crome Pro- which just expands on the free edition, and allowed me to use my datalogging cable - that helped a ton!

Anyway enough rambling on , your build is looking great just take the advice for what it is, your build resembles mine alot, and now im in the process of rebuilding my engine due to a cracked sleeve. Non-the-less I'm glad to see you choose a good rotating assembly, as well as the headwork. Looking good .

All advice and input is takin. lol I see your point and have been thinking about it the sleeves after reading a few threads about sleeves, but i have faith in my honda block especially the f series. this build will be low boost for daily driving and just something to have fun in when a civic pulls up. if it goes well, then it goes and ill start again. I appreciate every ones input and advice as well as the support. stay tuned!!!!

[ON_N20]

All advice and input is takin. lol I see your point and have been thinking about it the sleeves after reading a few threads about sleeves, but i have faith in my honda block especially the f series. this build will be low boost for daily driving and just something to have fun in when a civic pulls up. if it goes well, then it goes and ill start again. I appreciate every ones input and advice as well as the support. stay tuned!!!!

Sounds good, I just wanted to give you my advice you dont end up with the headache i have now! If you take it easy you should be able to make it last, but remember a proper tune and supporting components will make it last alot longer. Yeah keep us updated its an interesting build for sure!

[deevergote]

The F22A is an open deck design, so yes... the sleeves won't take that much abuse before they crack. This is something worth addressing in the initial build, rather than waiting for it to damage the expensive new stuff you're putting in there! Bisimoto was running a deal on sleeves recently... I'm sure Julio can hook you up. Resleeving a block isn't cheap, but it's cheaper than replacing all the forged goodies you're putting in there now if something fails, and a hell of a lot easier than building the engine twice!

[ON_N20]

The F22A is an open deck design, so yes... the sleeves won't take that much abuse before they crack. This is something worth addressing in the initial build, rather than waiting for it to damage the expensive new stuff you're putting in there! Bisimoto was running a deal on sleeves recently... I'm sure Julio can hook you up. Resleeving a block isn't cheap, but it's cheaper than replacing all the forged goodies you're putting in there now if something fails, and a hell of a lot easier than building the engine twice!

Agreed. If only I knew about that before I built my block the first time. Now $3,000 later (plus a few extra goodies this time around ) Im still trying to finish up the build for this summer. Money aside, its alot of time and hassle, even for someone like me who works on cars for a living with access to the shop, Id rather be driving the car than seeing it sit!

BTW, I was lucky my internals survived the sleeve cracking, only because I immediatly stopped driving. The pistons only suffered some light scratching. Yay for me

[deevergote]

That IS lucky! As soon as coolant starts entering the cylinder through a cracked cylinder wall, and oil pressure is lost... MAJOR damage can be done to the pistons, rods, crank, head... pretty much everything that relies on oil for lubrication.

[MortsAccord]

Agreed. If only I knew about that before I built my block the first time. Now $3,000 later (plus a few extra goodies this time around ) Im still trying to finish up the build for this summer. Money aside, its alot of time and hassle, even for someone like me who works on cars for a living with access to the shop, Id rather be driving the car than seeing it sit!

BTW, I was lucky my internals survived the sleeve cracking, only because I immediatly stopped driving. The pistons only suffered some light scratching. Yay for me

Well maybe you can get them moly coated skirts/ceramic coated crowns before sticking them back in.

That should get rid of those etches.

[GhostAccord]

Well maybe you can get them moly coated skirts/ceramic coated crowns before sticking them back in.

That should get rid of those etches.

Be careful! Adding a coating to the skirts may change the current piston to wall clearances. How much would depend on the product application. The clearances would have to be checked and the cylinders may require a hone.

[92Inspire]

Bisimoto Head Gasket.



Moates.net Demon (Ordered from Xenocron tuning solutions, DEMON RTP, NEPTUNE PACKAGE)






ARP Head studs and Mains.