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Old 05-24-2011, 07:28 AM   #101
CB7North
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i jus did mine last night took me about 7 hours to do it .. it is easy but if u have rust like me it a bitch!
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:05 PM   #102
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bumpin and old thread but my questions is how do I make sure the splines on the rack and pinion go straight in on the steering column shaft? I want to make sure I get the rack centered and make sure my wheel is straight. I don't want my wheel to turn sharper one way than the other lol.
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Old 02-09-2012, 12:24 PM   #103
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Question

I don't need to replace the rack yet but could you use the first part of the DIY to change your power steering fluid? Would an empty system hurt the pump?

Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:05 PM   #104
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One bolt near the Power Steering stuff (not the bracket side) is stripped, and so is the hole that it bolts into... Is the hole that it bolts into directly in the chassis, or is it bolted into a piece that can be removed? I'm trying to figure out what to do about the stripped bolt and hole. I've heard of the brand Heli-Coil, but don't know what exactly to do with it. would i need to remove the R/P to install a Heli-coil threaded insert? guidance, please! thanks!

Second Question: There are tubes connecting to the dust boots. I replaced the boot on the drivers side, but the tube is difficult to re-attach since it is very short. what is this tube for, and is it important? I understand you should always reconnect things, however, this tube was connected to a torn boot, and thus was exposed to air and all sorts of stuff so not re-connecting it is the same as its previous condition and nothing bad really occurred.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:01 PM   #105
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I have to know if I need any new gaskets or seals the hanger is a year old the rack mount is a year and a half old do I need a gasket for the ehaust ?
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:08 PM   #106
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I have to know if I need any new gaskets or seals the hanger is a year old the rack mount is a year and a half old do I need a gasket for the ehaust ?
when you take it apart? it wouldn't hurt. the exhaust hanger should be fine, as long as its not cracked or damaged (i think i'm still running the OEM ones after all this time )

the gasket shouldn't cost too much to replace. IMO, I would do it just so that there won't be any complications, if any, later (like leaks or whatnot).
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:11 AM   #107
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Yes when I pull the rack I just wonder how many gaskets I need I will look into majestic.
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:40 AM   #108
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Bump, bump & bumpity bump. Thanks for the DIY, I am getting started on this job first thing in morning. I am dealing with one exhaust pipe from header to muffler. Also, poor bastard so I am pulling my r&p from a local junk yard. Wish me luck and will post up my results.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:59 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by P5ylance View Post
Second Question: There are tubes connecting to the dust boots. I replaced the boot on the drivers side, but the tube is difficult to re-attach since it is very short. what is this tube for, and is it important? I understand you should always reconnect things, however, this tube was connected to a torn boot, and thus was exposed to air and all sorts of stuff so not re-connecting it is the same as its previous condition and nothing bad really occurred.
The tube is important. It moves air from one boot to the other (when you turn). I don't know exactly why that is necessary, but all R&P units that I have ever seen have one.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:25 AM   #110
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I just thought that I should add that:

1. It is way easier to move the hard power steering lines out of the way if you disconnect your sway bar end links and drop the driver's side of the sway bar by unbolting it from the chassis (this is a good time to replace your end links and bushings).
2. You should really uses flare nut wrenches for disconnecting the hard lines.
3. You definitely want to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left as to move the driver's side tie rod in and the passenger's side out.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:41 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabor View Post
I just thought that I should add that:

1. It is way easier to move the hard power steering lines out of the way if you disconnect your sway bar end links and drop the driver's side of the sway bar by unbolting it from the chassis (this is a good time to replace your end links and bushings).
2. You should really uses flare nut wrenches for disconnecting the hard lines.
3. You definitely want to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left as to move the driver's side tie rod in and the passenger's side out.
available at any auto parts store or Harbor Freight tools

dumbass me stripped a flare nut on my old Impala and had to buy a new hose AND the properflare nut wrenches
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:29 AM   #112
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Here's my rack and pinion vids...

Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWqV5Jb_-wM

Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xO3VDdLHLM

Hope this helps a bit...
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Old 01-21-2016, 12:02 AM   #113
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Necroposting

I have a bad inner tie rod and need to know the proper size of the crowsfoot style wrench needed to remove it
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Old 03-05-2016, 09:17 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbycos View Post
Necroposting

I have a bad inner tie rod and need to know the proper size of the crowsfoot style wrench needed to remove it
17 mm
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