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Old 03-31-2008, 03:12 AM   #1
owequitit
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SUSP: Progress Rear sway bar install

This is a highly recommended upgrade to any CB7 suspension. It is affordable (about $150), fairly easy to install, well made, and most importantly adds a whole new dimension of balance to the way the car handles.

The downsides are:

1) It is significantly heavier than the stock bar. Given the plusses, this isn't a huge deal, but it is there.

2) The installation instructions provided could be clearer. I can see it being a daunting task for someone relatively new to modifying cars.

3) It DOES NOT bolt up to the stock locations, so some modification of the rear subframe will be required.

4) It is quite a bit larger than the stock bar 14mm vs 22mm or roughly 60% larger, so it may not clear all setups. Fitment is on an individual basis. Having said that, it DOES provide more exhaust clearance than the stock bar.

The comparison:





You can clearly see the larger size of the new bar.

Included with bar:

Instruction sheet - 1
Anti-roll Bar - 1
U bracket - 2
Angle bracket - 2
1/4 spacer - 4
Backing plate - 2
Pivot bushing (for the end links) - 2
Grommet (for the end links)- 8
Cup Washer (for the end links) - 8
3/8 ID sleeve (for the end links) - 2
3/8-16 x 6.00 Hex bolt (for the end links) - 2
3/8-16 x 1 Hex bolt - 2
3/8-16 nylon luck nut - 4
3/8 flat washer - 4
5/16-18 x 1.00 hex bolt - 4
5/16-18 x 1.50 hex bolt - 2
5/16-18 nylon lock nut - 4
5/16 flat washer - 8
Polyurethane grease tube - 1

You will need the following tools:

1/2" socket

1/2" open end wrench

9/16" socket

9/16" open end wrench

12MM socket

14MM socket

19MM socket

Drill

5/16" drill bit

Marker/paint/chalk

To begin:

1) Park the vehicle on a smooth level surface, block the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle. Remove the rear wheels.

2) Remove the bolts that hold the stock sway bar to the rear subframe.

3) Lower the suspension down onto jackstands, so that the weight of the vehicle is being supported by the suspension and NOT the frame of the car. This will allow you to work with the car at ride height which unloads the sway bar.

4) Remove the two bolts that secure the stock way bar to the trailing arms and remove the stock sway bar. Remove the 2 subframe brackets that held the "D" shaped pivot bushing for the stock bar. There are 3 14mm bolts holding each one on. This will keep them from interfering with the new bar, and they are no longer needed.

Here is what it looks like with the Progress bar and the bracket in place. Notice that the bar is touching this bracket:

The interference is marked in yellow, while the bracket bolts are marked in red:



This is what it looks like with the bracket gone:



5) Secure the angle brackets to the trailing arms, using the 3/8-16 x 1.00 hex bolts, 2 3/8 flat washers per side and 2 3/8 nylon locking nuts. You will need a washer on each side as illustrated below:



DO NOT TIGHTEN THESE FULLY AT THIS POINT. Some modification of the brake line mounting tab may be required (mine did not, so it may be a rear drum thing).

6) Assemble the end links for each side as shown and secure them to the angle brackets you just installed.

You will need the following for EACH end link:

3/8-16 x 6.00 bolt

4 polyurethane grommets (make sure the ridges on the poly face each other)

3/8" I.D. sleeve

4 cup washers (make sure the "cup" of the washer is on the bushing)

3/8-16 nylon lock nut



Lift the ends of the swaybar into position and place a 3/8-16 nylon lock nut on the end of each end link. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM AT THIS POINT.

7) Lubricate the "D" shaped pivot bushings using the supplied grease tube and snap them over the bar. They should locate just outside the bend in the middle of the bar.

8) Assemble the backing plate and 1/4" spacers together, place the assembly on top of the "D" shaped pivot bushing and put the pivot bushing bracket over the poly bushing.

You will need to lift the bar up to the rear subframe at this point, and make sure it is sitting where it is going to be mounted. I highly recommend using a jackstand to support the bar as close to the mounting position as possible, as it will make the next step much easier.

9) With the bar up to the subframe and the backing plate, spacers and bushing bracket assembled around it, mark off the 4 holes that will need to be drilled in the subframe. You can feel the large lip you will be drilling through if you put your finger on the top side of the subframe. You want to make sure that the holes you drill are located on this lip. The backing plate should make it pretty obvious about where you need to drill. Mark the holes with a marker, chalk, paint etc. Repeat for the other side.

Here is an assembled approximation of what you will be doing:



10) Lower the bar out of the way. Using a 5/16" drill bit, drill out the 4 holes you just marked.

It should look roughly like this:



Here is a clearer image of the front hole (by the gas tank):



11) Once the holes are drilled, you can lift everything back into place and reassemble, making sure that there are 2 1/4" spacers at each rear hole on the subframe, and ZERO on the front hole.



* Remember, the REAR hole identifies the one closest to the rear of the car.

12) To assemble and secure each bar bracket assmebly:

A) Place 1 5/16-18 x 1.00 hex bolt through each front subframe hole.

B) Place 1 5/16-18 x 1.00 and 1 5/16 flat washer in the middle hole on the bracket with the threads facing the ground.

C) Place 1 5/16-18 x 1.50 hex bolt through the rear subframe hole.

D) lift the backing plate into place, with the spacers for the rear hole. Place the pivot bushing bracket over the front and middle hole in the backing plate, place 1 5/16" flat washer on all three bolts. Place 1 5/16 nylon locking nut on each bolt, and then tighten.

13) Once everything is bolted up, you can go around and tighten all of the bolts. Start with the backing plates, then the front bushing pivot bracket bolts, the angle brackets mounted to the trailing arms, and finally, the end links.

*The proper way to tighten the end links is to tighten just until you can no longer rotate the cup washers by hand, and then 1 more complete turn. Do not overtorque as this will lead to shortened bushing life.

14) Jack the car up to release the rear suspension, reinstall rear tires, and torque lug nuts to spec. Lower the car.

15) Push or drive the car around to settle the suspension, and then double check tightness. Tightness should also be checked periodically to ensure safety.

The finished product:



Enjoy. It is well worth the money and effort.

Last edited by owequitit; 04-12-2011 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 03-31-2008, 03:43 PM   #2
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Question

Great DIY

Do you think it would make a difference if I installed the Progress Sway Bar while I'm at stock ride height (currently) and then lowered the car in the future? I read this thread where a few members complained about the bar hitting the lower control arms.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...gress+sway+bar
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Old 03-31-2008, 05:18 PM   #3
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Great DIY. There are a few threads here and there about this but this is absolutely perfect. Thanks.
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Old 03-31-2008, 05:39 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90goldcoupe
Great DIY

Do you think it would make a difference if I installed the Progress Sway Bar while I'm at stock ride height (currently) and then lowered the car in the future? I read this thread where a few members complained about the bar hitting the lower control arms.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...gress+sway+bar

Personally, I would very much recommend it on any car. It will reduce rear body roll, but IMO the most important benefit is that it makes the rear end much more stable and predictable while simultaneously making the car handle more neutrally (the front end doesn't want to plow as badly).

Sway bars are a popular upgrade in lots of cases. One of the popular mods right now in the Honda world is to put a TL or TL Type S rear sway on an Accord V6 to get it to handle better. Honda puts small bars on stock to make sure the car handles safely, and most people probably don't like it when the rear end gets unpredictable, so they stop.

I have had the rear end snap oversteer on me a couple times with the stock bar. Supposedly, this is more progressive in its breakaway charachteristics. I will let you all know.

As far as hitting the control arms, the only thing I can say is that they either had bent components, or they installed it incorrectly.

Last edited by owequitit; 05-30-2008 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 03-31-2008, 05:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tnwagn
Great DIY. There are a few threads here and there about this but this is absolutely perfect. Thanks.

Thanks, I hope it helps anyone having to use the Progress instructions.
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Old 03-31-2008, 07:43 PM   #6
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This swaybar is awesome. I have it on my 02 civic and I notice a HUGE difference!!!

Heres a pic:
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:03 PM   #7
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I have a new Progress bar in the garage that's going on once the winter weather is over, great write up Scott
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Old 03-31-2008, 11:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granite CB7
I have a new Progress bar in the garage that's going on once the winter weather is over, great write up Scott
x2 i have had my progress rear sway sitting in the box for a few weeks now just waiting for nice weather to install....Great write up...this clarified everything for me now so my install should go smooth...great work owequitit
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Old 04-01-2008, 02:04 AM   #9
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Glad I could be of service...
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Old 04-01-2008, 02:24 AM   #10
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holy wow, thanks man. I knew i was missing something. The angle brackets.

does anyone know where i would buy those and the long bolt with nuts and bushings?
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:09 AM   #11
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hmmmm...I do have 500 extra dollars from that "accident" i had, if you wanna call repainted a rear bumper an accident. 130 you say? from where...what website?
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Old 04-02-2008, 10:04 PM   #12
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About $130? I can't find it anywhere for under $150-160 shipped.
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Old 04-03-2008, 12:34 AM   #13
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www.progressauto.com

It was $145. STILL well worth the money.
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Old 04-03-2008, 12:45 AM   #14
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would this be harder if i have an lx?? or would it be easier for me to get an ex rear cross member?
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:46 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanjdm
would this be harder if i have an lx?? or would it be easier for me to get an ex rear cross member?

The LX should already be set up for a sway bar, so my guess would be that it should be easier to work with what you have.
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:40 AM   #16
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on the lx the brake lines to where to mount the L bracket is in the way. there are either 3 options to choose from. cut the rear brake line bracket so you can move it up or down since the bracket is attached to 2 studs that are on the rear trailing arm therefore you can't move the lines unless you get SS lines or cut the bracket to compensate. #2 some say you can get ex/se trailing arms and it will bolt right on and no hard lines will get in the way of the install but i dunno since I do not have a ex/se. #3 you can buy a longer bolt for the rear sway bar to compensate for the clearance issue what you would do is turn the L bracket upside down and buy another spacer for it. thats what I did since I didn't want to cut anything yet since im lazy lol. I will post pics of what I did on a later note. I'll post up pics of bolts that came with the sway bar and what i bought.
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:50 AM   #17
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Great DIY, thanks for it, I may just have to consider this!!!
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Old 04-03-2008, 01:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trah
on the lx the brake lines to where to mount the L bracket is in the way. there are either 3 options to choose from. cut the rear brake line bracket so you can move it up or down since the bracket is attached to 2 studs that are on the rear trailing arm therefore you can't move the lines unless you get SS lines or cut the bracket to compensate. #2 some say you can get ex/se trailing arms and it will bolt right on and no hard lines will get in the way of the install but i dunno since I do not have a ex/se. #3 you can buy a longer bolt for the rear sway bar to compensate for the clearance issue what you would do is turn the L bracket upside down and buy another spacer for it. thats what I did since I didn't want to cut anything yet since im lazy lol. I will post pics of what I did on a later note. I'll post up pics of bolts that came with the sway bar and what i bought.

Well, I guess that explains this: "Some modification of the brake line mounting tab may be required (mine did not, so it may be a rear drum thing)."
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Old 04-04-2008, 01:53 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by owequitit
Well, I guess that explains this: "Some modification of the brake line mounting tab may be required (mine did not, so it may be a rear drum thing)."

yeap its a drum thing. I will try to post pictures when I can. but going to switch to a disc setup so i can redo it next weekend.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:06 AM   #20
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cheapest place I can find it for is @ this place http://thmotorsports.com/progress-te...1/i-39740.aspx for $143 and change SHIPPED. Since I recently sold my Thule Roof Rack, I already placed an order for one! woo hoo, handling here I come!
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