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Old 07-20-2005, 12:43 AM   #21
starchland
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starchland may have said something they shouldn't have...
according to http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/400/12-38.pdf when removing the rear spring/shock assembly, the upper ball joint has to be disconnected is this necessary?
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Old 07-20-2005, 01:43 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starchland
according to http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/400/12-38.pdf when removing the rear spring/shock assembly, the upper ball joint has to be disconnected is this necessary?
def. not!!!!, i didnt touch the ball joint at all.
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Old 07-20-2005, 02:10 AM   #23
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me either, just loosen the bottom obolt a bit, then the top 3, then i kicked it inwards and it came right out.

to put it on u have to push it down a bit to get it aligned, thats it though.
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Old 07-21-2005, 01:36 AM   #24
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i just finished installing my setup, never done suspension before. took me a while and only finished 3 out of 4 when i ran into a problem i had getting the middle nut off of the front left shock assembly, had to force an allen wrench in the top and then clamp it while loosening the nut with another wrench. almost killed myself when it shot off! thanks for the write up!!!
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Old 08-16-2005, 07:52 PM   #25
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Here's a tip to save time...if you're keeping the top hats, don't even bother taking them off. Also, for the rear suspension, there's a huge space directly in front of the mount up top. Put all the bushings/rings on the shaft and let the assembly move in that space while you do the next step. Line the BOTTOM holes up first as it's basically impossible (at least it was for me) with the top stuff locked in place...then put some weight on the hub to lower the assembly, push the shaft down and put the spring/shaft back into the top hat, and tighten everything up.

To me the front is easier than the back...again don't remove the top hat; just take off the shaft nut and all the bushings under it, push the shaft down, separate the fork from the hub, blah blah take everything apart and out. Then just put everything back.

I did my back suspension today in about 1.5 hrs, no joke...and this was including disconnecting and reconnecting the sway bar on one side (which wasn't necessary).

Also, make sure you have a real jack w/jackstands...the jack comes in handy when reconnecting sway bars and stuff.

That's my contribution...
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Old 09-17-2005, 12:21 AM   #26
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It is a BITCH getting the bolt off the bottom part of the fork in the front. I couldnt do it when I tried tonight, so I put it all back together. And whats the word on using the cars weight as a spring compressor? Yay or Nay? (should I or should I be safe and get some actual compressors?)
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Old 09-17-2005, 12:35 AM   #27
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OHHHHHHHHHHHH never mind, if you have stock springs def. take the full assembly out. I've been working with dropped cars for so long I forgot what a compressed unloaded spring looks like ...SAFETY FIRST!!!
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Old 09-17-2005, 12:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxcx
It is a BITCH getting the bolt off the bottom part of the fork in the front. I couldnt do it when I tried tonight, so I put it all back together. And whats the word on using the cars weight as a spring compressor? Yay or Nay? (should I or should I be safe and get some actual compressors?)
You could rent a spring compressor at checkers or buy a craftsman for $40, much safer. For the lca to fork bolt in the front I just set a torque wrench going one direction and a breaker bar going the other (so the wrenches looked like this / \ from the front). Loosen just one side since the wrench on the other side will push into the ground. Didn't need much wd-40 to break them loose but you might want to try that if you havent already.
Just make sure the top hats are on right otherwise the fork wont line up.
Hope that helped.
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Old 09-17-2005, 01:15 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowoctane
well on the front, mine went right in, had no problem what so ever, heheh...but on the rear the bolt was a bitch to get it to thread in and line up correctly...well sense i had mine on a lift when i did it, i took two(2) Flat Head Screwdrivers and finaggled it into place, basically used them both the manuver everything, made it a lot easier, but that was for me..could be harder for others.
amen, those rear bolts are a bitch to line up

but then, that's only an issue if you're able to take out the strut and spring assembly themselves. I unbolted the bitches and for the life of me, I could never remove the strut assembly from the car because I could never get it to clear the rear fenders. I tried everything, including standing on the rear hub and then trying to get it to clear...nothing. And the hell if I could allow the struts to just drop, since I didn't have a lift and I was just doing one side at a time with a car jack. Sucked ass and I just had a shop do the rears. The fronts were cake...can probably do them in 15 minutes for both.

Anyone have any tips for the rears and making them clear the fenders easily?
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Old 09-17-2005, 08:05 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliplyricist1
Anyone have any tips for the rears and making them clear the fenders easily?
Maybe I'm not understanding yr question b/c mine were really easy to get out. I just dropped the strut down and toward the other wheel then pulled it up over the hub at that angle. Maybe jack the car up and let the hub sag a little (or push down slightly).
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Old 09-17-2005, 08:29 PM   #31
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Rear shock removal:

I loosened up the brake line from one of the arms (the one that runs the length of the car in the front) and moved that. From there I got the bottom bolt loose and kept the top connected, and basically banged the strut off the hub...voila, uncompressed spring, removed shock.

For the install, I wish I had pics...basically there's mad room up above the rear UCA FOR the UCA, so when the suspension is fully extended you can use that room to maneuver the shock. I connected the bottom bolt and again pushed the shaft below the top of the spring, then I put weight on the hub and got the spring in the cap, and I pulled the shaft up. Pizza pie. It's tougher with longer springs and probably impossible with stock springs (what was Honda thinking? Why have tension on a fully uncompressed spring????), but with a compressor it should be doable. It just sucks to use a compressor cause it takes up precious space...but whatever, it's all still doable.

Basically, keep the top hat connected in the car whenever possible and work with the bottom half...it'll save so much time. I can change my fronts in like 1hr on a good day.
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Old 10-17-2005, 12:13 AM   #32
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Well, this noob has had an "interesting" time tonight removing his rear springs & struts. Actually only one side has been taken off as I write this ...

Pulling away the hard plastic trunk liner on each side wasn't much fun. I'd done it before on the driver's side when installing a new antenna, but still.

First off, I couldn't even see, let alone remove, one nut up top without removing the seat sides --- that outer part of the seat back. Helms to the rescue to verify how that part is attached. Squat inside on the seat cushion, applying pressure with a knee to gain access and remove one bolt with a 10mm wrench. Carefully hold on to it so that it doesn't drop and necessitate removing the bottom (and maybe top to gain access?) cushion. Lift up and out each outer seat back.

Seriously --- how did you guys remove both top strut bolts without doing this first?

Optionally remove the plastic trim on each side that covers the sides of the trunk area behind the seatback (this allowed easier access with a ratchet.)

BTW --- for those top strut nuts you need a 14mm wrench or socket. I thought something so important would be on there with death but mine came off fairly easily.

Here's something that wasn't the case for my '91:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiKKeDV16
. REAR SUSPENSION .

7.) Use a 17mm wrench and remove the one single bolt that holds the bottom of the strut to place. You will need two 17mm wrenches, one on each side. You'll need two because if you turn just one side, the other will move along with it. You will need to hold the other end still in order to remove it. You also may need a plastic/rubber hammer to hit the loosen bolt out of place.
8.) Now the entire strut assembly should come off your car.
At the bottom of the strut, the nut was "attached" (welded) to the strut --- so only a single ratchet or breaker bar was necessary to loosen the bolt.

I figured it was an "OEM thing" (my struts had never been replaced) but my new Koni Reds are the same way --- a nut is already attached there.

This begs the question: do some aftermarket or OEM rear struts not come with the nut welded to the strut, or is there an error in the DIY, or do for example 92-93 cars have separate nuts and ... you get the idea.

Anyway, my method for removing the assembly was to stomp on the rotor hub (on a lug nut actually) with one foot and kick the assembly with the other while leaning against the garage wall for balance ... this broke it free of the bottom mount, and promptly knocked the car off the T-stand on the other side! Fortunately I still had a floor jack under the center cross beam so the car didn't really go very far. I used the scissors jack to bring the other side back up ...

Also important: I strongly suggest leaving at least one if not both top nuts secured and take them off last. The suspension will not drop to the floor. If you take them off first as outlined in the DIY, when you later try to loosen the bottom bolt the whole mess will wiggle a bit, negating much of the force you exert on the wrench/ratchet/breaker bar.

Like several of you, I couldn't clear the fender to take it out. I eventually removed the caliper and disk rotor so that I could loosen the dust shield so that when I bent it it wouldn't have to be bent too much. "8.) Now the entire strut assembly should come off your car." But my naive hope was that I could remove the dust shield ... um, no. I'll just bend the other side and not take all that other shit off.

And that's where I'm at. I started to remove the other side but sheared off the lower mounting bolt, so I'm fucked. If only that nut wasn't welded to the strut I could maybe pound out the bolt with a punch or screwdriver and hammer ...

Last edited by deckeda; 10-17-2005 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:46 AM   #33
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Damn you sheared the bolt doggg??? Get that to a shop ASAP!!! I wanna ask whether you WD40'd up the bolts but I'll assume you did...

I have a 93 and my bolt was attached as well. It was a pain in the ass and a half to get the bolts to line up the first time; but it really helps if you secure the top of the strut before you try to get to the bottom, as the weight of it all won't be a factor in lining it up. Seriously, now I could prob. do a suspension in like 3 hours by myself...it's not too bad. I think I'm gonna have to get a camber kit soon so I might do a full, picture assisted DIY...
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Old 10-17-2005, 11:28 AM   #34
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WD-40? Wazzat? Seriously though, I did.

It's funny --- on the one side that came off cleanly I only sprayed the nut (doh!) because from reading that seemed to be where the problem would come.

For my problem-child side, I sprayed the bolt head side too when it was clear is wasn't easily budging.

I've got to find an angle grinder or something to "scrape off" so to speak that nut. And even then I fear the bolt is probably stuck inside the bushing.
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:53 PM   #35
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I remember back in the day when i had my other cb i installed a set of intrax lowering springs. me and my 2 friends did it with only HAND TOOLS and it took us at total of 6hrs if not more. this when i was in 11th grade and i had a lowered car back, boy i thought i was the shit anyway now i can take them out in 20mins and have them put back together with new springs and struts in a 1hrs time with a air compressor. ive did so many hondas its like cakes&pies
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:56 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gloryaccordy
Damn you sheared the bolt doggg??? Get that to a shop ASAP!!! I wanna ask whether you WD40'd up the bolts but I'll assume you did...

I have a 93 and my bolt was attached as well. It was a pain in the ass and a half to get the bolts to line up the first time; but it really helps if you secure the top of the strut before you try to get to the bottom, as the weight of it all won't be a factor in lining it up. Seriously, now I could prob. do a suspension in like 3 hours by myself...it's not too bad. I think I'm gonna have to get a camber kit soon so I might do a full, picture assisted DIY...
get a alignment and you'll be fine. what drop do you have?
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Old 10-17-2005, 10:25 PM   #37
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I have Tanabe DF210 springs in the back and coils in the front...but I think I'm just gonna go back to DF210's all around. Camber in the front is a serious issue...my right UCA is a little bent so I must have like 4-5 degrees of camber on that wheel. I'm gonna raise it up on a non-lazy free day...
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Old 10-19-2005, 05:36 PM   #38
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Is anyone else's bottom fork bolt REALLY freaking hard to get off? Like..nearly impossibly hard? Any suggestions? I already tried WD40ing the hell out of it, and Im still here asking this question, so thats probably out. Dammit..I hate that bolt
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Old 10-20-2005, 05:43 PM   #39
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Im about to pop a vein/artery thanks to these god damn mother fucking bolts. I fucking hate the fuckers. Wont fucking come loose no matter bow much WD40 OR PB Blaster I SOAK them with.
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Old 10-20-2005, 05:51 PM   #40
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The fork on the bottom in the front? I hope you know you have to keep one side still and turn the other one...are the bolts spinning?
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