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H22a swap... give gas then dies???

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    H22a swap... give gas then dies???

    My h22a swap idles fine at start, but When I give it gas, it dies. Checked wiring to injectors tps, map, vtec pressure switch and the solenoid itself, vacuum, o2.... using a stock usdm p28 throws cel 41( o2 sensor heater), 22 (vtec pressure switch), using a chipped usdm p28 with h22 basemap it throws no cel, but idles worse with same problem with dying after I give it gas... not sure what to do, or how to solve this problem. Been scouring this forum and phearables tech pages for over 6 hours to no avail all the while troubleshooting this issue. Any help would be great.

    #2
    Can you get your hands on a P13 ecu? Even a pt3/pt6 will suffice to get it running. I always suspect the modified ecu first.






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      #3
      Is your tps properly adjusted?
      What happens when you disconnect the tps and then give it gas?
      How is your IACV and other idle air related components?
      Any vacuum leaks?

      YouTube Clicky!!

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        #4
        A couple of questions, is a p13 better suited to run this? I ordered the whole swap from HMO (item #30017) and was given a p0F ecu with my swap, even though it says a p13 is what Steve ships with it normally.

        some info: My buddy who has been helping me complete this swap had a socketed p28 and gave it to me free of charge, and with help from a local, who burned me the h22a base map chip on the cheap, claims he can get the issue resolved in an hour if we bring the vehicle to his shop.

        So last night we went through a ton of stuff, rewiring the map sensor using this forum helped get it to idle smoother, inspected/cleaned vtec solenoid and pressure switch, inspected tested vacuum for leaks (none), unplugging o2 helped a bit also, he tested the tps and got it set to .5v closed and 4.5v @ wot..

        The oil pressure light flashed for a bit while revving a little, then cel 22 and 41 came on using stock p28 just to rehash the old post info..

        trying to be as specific and short to keep post size short and to the point.
        Last edited by djALBINI; 10-17-2018, 03:06 PM. Reason: grammatical errors

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          #5
          tps disconnected it wont start

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            #6
            IAB, IACV, EGR and related components deleted... got rid of the black box. No place to put those air related components on the golden eagle intake manifold.
            Last edited by djALBINI; 10-17-2018, 03:08 PM.

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              #7
              If it's a P0F, then you need to swap pins A6 and A11 on the ECU connector. That ECU is from an Accord SiR which is the '94-'97 Accord chassis. The look on those cars have pins A6 and A11 reversed compared to most other OBD1 Hondas, and to restore functionality, those pins need to be swapped.

              If you don't want to do that, then a P13 would be the better option. Or like Deev said, just install a PT3/PT6 just to get it to idle correctly.
              My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                #8
                Thanks Jarrett, I ultimately want to use the chipped p28 as this is the ecu that will get tuned using crome by the local tuner... Perhaps I purchase the P13 from a junkyard that came out of a 95 5spd prelude w/vtec and use it to get there if the swapping of a6/a11 does not work out...
                Last edited by djALBINI; 10-17-2018, 06:45 PM.

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                  #9
                  Ok, so an update on this issue...

                  Got the A6 and A11 pins switched when hooking up the poF ecu...

                  all the codes are gone, it idles, but as soon as I give gas it dies...

                  Suspect TPS or MAP sensor wiring...

                  problem was wiring indeed!

                  got her running and tuned tonight!
                  Last edited by djALBINI; 10-18-2018, 11:11 PM. Reason: solved problem!

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