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Old 07-23-2018, 07:50 PM   #741
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Assuming XXXXX = blocked off, your first idea should work, and even with one fan.

Assuming your car doesn't overheat with AC off and parked in the driveway, does your AC work well?

https://www.yourmechanic.com/questio...-car-overheats
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Old 07-23-2018, 10:04 PM   #742
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A/C works fantastic. I'm not going to rule out the pump starting to fail, although I did totally go through it and don't see a reason why it should be failing other than wear on the pistons. Then again it is 25 years old. Well I've added a second fan to the condenser only, sitting beside the radiator.

I'm going to go for a drive here shortly to see how it goes this time around. If need be I can always swap compressors, I just don't want to.

Hopefully I'll get the time to go through pictures and upload and link some tonight.
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Old 07-24-2018, 01:56 AM   #743
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Hey Will, does your AC give off a funky gassy smell when or if the pump starts getting too hot? Any idle problems also once it starts to go above normal operating temps?
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:27 AM   #744
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Alright guys we are finally making progress! With a fan on the back of the radiator and the back of the condenser I can finally use A/C out on the highway without the engine overheating. The only problem is now that it is running a little hot while at low speeds, even without the A/C on. Either I need to buy a race fan to replace the standard fan, as they push quite a bit more CFM of air. Or hook up 3 fans, a pusher and puller for the condenser/radiator, and a 3rd for the condenser alone.

Mark A/C gives off no funny smells, and over heating doesn't affect idle.
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Old 08-02-2018, 09:03 AM   #745
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Well I have managed to finally solve the over heating issue. I put the stock radiator back in the car. Rock solid temps all the time even with the A/C on. I guess the Civic radiator just doesn't have enough surface area to keep the fluid cool enough with the condenser generating heat in front of it, and reducing air flow to the radiator. I do have pictures, per usual though I haven't had time to upload any of them. You know spending all my free time working on the car instead. Later today I'm headed out to go on the NWPAC Summer meet over at Rockaway Beach, Oregon. Wish me luck guys, it's only like 9 hours there or something...

No matter how many fans I ran, in multiple different configurations I couldn't keeps the temps down at slow speeds (ie: town driving, stop and go traffic).
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Old 08-04-2018, 08:55 AM   #746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
Well I have managed to finally solve the over heating issue. I put the stock radiator back in the car. Rock solid temps all the time even with the A/C on. I guess the Civic radiator just doesn't have enough surface area to keep the fluid cool enough with the condenser generating heat in front of it, and reducing air flow to the radiator. I do have pictures, per usual though I haven't had time to upload any of them. You know spending all my free time working on the car instead. Later today I'm headed out to go on the NWPAC Summer meet over at Rockaway Beach, Oregon. Wish me luck guys, it's only like 9 hours there or something...

No matter how many fans I ran, in multiple different configurations I couldn't keeps the temps down at slow speeds (ie: town driving, stop and go traffic).
Yep, or the civic rad is bad.
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Old 08-06-2018, 08:56 AM   #747
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Doubtful, I had 2 Civic radiators doing the exact same thing. So one of my good buddies that I drove the last bit of the way to NWPAC with also has his condenser in, and had overheating problems as well this weekend. It seems to hold true that if you have a condenser the Civic radiator just doesn't have enough surface area to keep the fluid cool. I'm going to purchase a full size aluminum radiator and a shroud. I'll get some pictures up today or tomorrow. I finally have a bit of free time.

Lola and I made it to NWPAC and home mostly unscathed. So part of the way there, I swapped out the Black ECU for the stock P13, as my wideband fully died about halfway to Seattle. I didn't want it to lean out as I was descending to the coast, and I couldn't keep an eye on it. It had a few hiccups that I couldn't relate to anything but the gas possibly. Made it to Seattle otherwise fine and spent the night. The next morning we headed off to Rockaway Beach, OR. Both of the cars did flawlessly driving down there. Had a great time for the weekend and headed home yesterday morning. Everything was great on the way home until I bought gas in Spokane. At that point the car started to have hiccups all over the place, losing some power at points. I was getting really concerned as I didn't want to have the car towed home. Well finally near the top of Lookout Pass, Lola popped a CEL (thank god). I haven't checked the codes but I'm 99% sure it was the O2 sensor because as soon as the computer wrote it off, it ran so much better than before. I honestly think this O2 sensor has been faulty from the beginning. It was brand new 4 months ago. It had a really strange slight idle hunt that I couldn't figure out. Now that the O2 sensor is dead the hunting is gone. After the CEL came on she ran perfectly the rest of the way home. The round trip was 1438 miles.
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:00 AM   #748
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That's a very long way to drive when you're worried like hell the entire time that something will lean out and blow! Congratulations to you on making it safely with an O2 sensor as the lone casualty.

What was the reason for using a Civic radiator in the first place? Did you have turbo "aspirations" in mind, or just trying to save some space?
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Old 08-06-2018, 12:08 PM   #749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
That's a very long way to drive when you're worried like hell the entire time that something will lean out and blow! Congratulations to you on making it safely with an O2 sensor as the lone casualty.

What was the reason for using a Civic radiator in the first place? Did you have turbo "aspirations" in mind, or just trying to save some space?
I really wasn't worried about leaning out with the stock P13. I ran my wideband on it for a few months before getting the KS Black ECU. The P13 even with the Type S pistons was able to keep everything in check. I swapped it halfway to Seattle just to be safe, the only worry was that damn hiccup, which I wish the damn thing would have died sooner. Instead of leaving me 200+ miles from home hiccuping all over the place. Like when I was with everyone else so if it died, I had a ride. Although I did bring all my tools with me and a bunch of spare parts. Granted I didn't have an O2 sensor.

I don't want to turbo anything. But I really want to try a centrifugal super charger on something, most likely the F23. If I'm still not happy then Lola is getting a J engine. Although the space gained was really nice to have .
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Old 11-16-2018, 08:50 AM   #750
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Alright guys and gals, I know that I've fallen far behind in my updates of this MRT. I finally have some time to do things at home. For the most part since the trip out to the Portland coast, our family hasn't been home a single weekend. We have been spending the weekends over in Washington working on the house we are building. Things have fallen far behind at home with house keeping and just maintenance on the house, to getting ready for winter. Well most of that is all caught up now. When you are only home 4-5 nights a week after work it's hard to accomplish much of anything, anywhere. Also when we are working on the house there is no internet out there, or cell service so trying to keep this updated, just didn't work out.

This weekend I'm going to sit down with my log book for Lola and give you all a run down of what I've been doing while I've been MIA. The next post is probably going to be a monstrous post, I'm sorry but it will bring everyone up to date on my car.

Thanks guys!
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Old 12-04-2018, 03:29 PM   #751
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8/9 Ordered a new Bosch 17018 wideband O2 sensor. Also ordered 2 short O2 extenders/defoulers.

8/13 Ordered a new Denso O2 sensor.

8/14 Installed new window pin kit on the driver's side door. Had to re-use the old pin, as the new one stripped the screw head trying to install it also stripped out the old head. Window no longer rattles when shutting the door, if the window was mostly down.

Installed both O2 defoulers, as well as the new Bosch wideband sensor. Had to cut the plug off the old wideband and affix it to the new sensor, as they had different plugs.

8/18 Installed new O2 sensor after extending the wires on it. Also found main fan was unplugged plugged it back in.

8/21 O2 readings seem a bit slow, ordered some different O2 extenders.

8/26 Installed new O2 extenders.

8/27 Went for a test drive, wideband readings appear more responsive. Swapped spoiler LED for one from the junkyard in L.A. Had far less cracks in the plastic. Also found left trunk tail light unplugged. Plugged back in, now dash brake light is off. First time since owning the car.

8/29 Hammered in driver's side body tail light housing. The light was pushed out a bit from the body/trunk lines. Worked the metal back into shape. Tail light housing now sit's where it is supposed to. Looks much better. Also found a broken piece of the tail light in the trim under the tail light. It was rattling around. This fixed another random rattle in the car.

8/31 Went for a drive to heat up the oil. Added Seafoam to the crankcase after the Oregon trip. Drained the oil. Mileage at 215018. Filled with Castrol 10-30w with 1 quart of HyperLube additive. Fumoto oil drain valve worked phenomenally. Need to buy these for my other vehicles.

9/1 Went to Pull and Save in Spokane, WA. Found some treasures. 40/40 proportioning valve, gery high rise center console arm rest (wagon only), 90-91 foglights + harness + switch. Also found a 1994 Prelude 4ws. Going to try and go back next weekend to get the 4ws setup.

Removed the Fumoto oil drain valve from the oil pan to install OEM crush washers. The ones provided have been leaking shortly after installing them. Might have stripped the threads in the oil pan. Going to put oil in to see if it's still leaking.

9/4 Oil pan appears to be leaking at the drain. I stripped the thread, I'm sure. Need to figure out a solution. Thinking about installing a heli-coil. Went for a drive need to check the oil in a bit.

9/5 Worked on creating a conversion harness for old Lola. I did the same thing on new Lola.

9/6 Installed a new ignition switch as the old one was beginning to fail. Brake light was on again. After checking both outer lights were off. Disconnected and reconnected plugs multiple times. Bother outer lights are now working.

9/7 Went to Pull and Save in Spokane, WA and got a complete 1994 Prelude 4ws rear end. Also got the 4ws ecu from the trunk, wiring harness, and steering angle sensor. I did not get the emergency brake lines. These may be required, they were quite a bit longer than the standard cables. This is going to be a winter project. How cool would it be to have an electronic 4ws Accord?

9/8 Washed Lola. Found an oil spot on the floor. Aluminum oil pan needs to be repaired. Going to see if the machine shop can possibly fix it. Went for a drive. At high sustained rpm's there is a burning oil smell. Clearly the oil pan needs some work.

9/9 Started to deloom 4ws harness to figure out if the ABS needs to be retained or not.

Cut camber bolts on the Prelude 4ws rear end. They were rusted in place. Going to have to cut one of the trailing arm bolts as well. Using a hacksaw to minimize damage to the bushing sleeves, just in case they need to be reused.

9/12 Sanded and primered passenger side wiper arm. This is only because old Lola needs decent wiper arms.

Finished cutting apart Prelude 4ws rear end. Cut the trailing arm off the lower control arm. Put it away in the attic with the rest of the parts.

Talked to Kim and Mike at the machine shop about bearing specs, and ring gap specs. Looking for an alignment pin for my crankshaft. Need to get the valves and valve springs ordered soon, from Bisimoto.

9/17 Stopped by the machine shop. Crankshaft has a pin in it now, to align the flywheel. Bought a new oil pan to drain the oil into. Going to reuse the oil as it only has around 100 miles on it.

9/18 Removed the header and oil pan. Machine shop is going to fix drain plug threads on the oil pan.

After removing the oil pan, I found out I have broke the drain valve extension and not the pan. While good new the oil pan is a major pain in the ass to remove.

Painted passenger side wiper arm black. Should be installed tomorrow.

9/19 Installed freshly painted passenger wiper arm. Moved old wiper arm to old Lola. She now has both wiper arms finally!

9/20 Picked up oil pan gasket from Honda. Cleaned mating surfaces on pan and block. Put Honda Ultra Flange II on the pan and bolted it to the block. Haven't found the pan plug. Torqued bolts after waiting a bit for the silicone to setup.

I have to head out of the house now. I'll get the rest of this posted up later today. Also I will get the pictures up after all of the write up is done.
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Old 12-04-2018, 07:03 PM   #752
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9/24 Checked torque on oil pan bolts. Installed header. Installed transmission stiffener plate. Went to Honda and bought a new drain plug and crush washer. Bought a few paint strainers to strain out any particulate from the new oil drain pan.

Had a weird hesitation the last time I drove Lola. Need to see if this re-occurs.

Thinking it might be time to replace the fuel pump. I have a Walbro 255 sitting on the shelf brand new. This needs to be installed before the F23 run the first time anyway. I also think it's time to start learning how to tune with Hondata. I don't really trust other people with the engine.

Used CRC Electronic cleaner on my outside drivers side tail light. After checking the connections I noticed one pin was actually corroded off. Cut off and soldered on a new pin. Cleaned other corroded pins. Still have the brake light on. Need to buy a new outer passenger light anyway. Going to cut a chunk of the harness off and replace the entire plug with good pins. This should fix the brake light on the dashboard.

Loosened injector harness bracket and tightened intake manifold nuts. Still need to check the bottom nuts. Looking for the slight vacuum leak.

Starting to think the throttle body could be my slight idle issue cause. Need to order a larger throttle body for the F23 anyway.

After all of that, I'm finally ready for a test drive.

Passenger side rear blinker not working. Still has a hiccup sometimes at exactly 4000 rpm.

9/25 Checked passenger side rear outer tail light plugs for corrosion. Found some and cleaned it up. This got the blinker working again, but the dash brake light is still on.

Thinking I need to go for a drive to burn up most of the gas in the tank, so that the fuel pump can be swapped out.

9/26 Went for a short drive to use up more of the gas in the tank. Only around 1/8 of a tank left. Should be ok to drop the tank now.

Started to work on removing the gas tank. Upon removing the bottom portion of the rear seat I scratched the back of the passenger CL-S seat . Got the sending unit cover off and unplugged. Went under the car to start inspecting the removal of the tank. Removed cover on all hard line connections to the tank.

9/28 Removed gas tank to replace the fuel pump with the Walbro 255. Didn't get to the pump. The bottom of the tank had a massive amount of oil/dirt residue built up on it. Started to clean it off. Got about 60% done before it got dark outside. Will finish it up tomorrow after firewood at grandma's house.

9/30 Finished cleaning the gas tank bottom and top.

10/1 Received new full aluminum radiator and fan shroud.

Cleaned some of the body where the gas tank resides. Some of the oil/dirt residue can only be cleaned while the tank is out of the car. Once the new fuel pump is in, the tank is ready to go back in. I also need to paint a few spots that the scrubber went through the paint to bare metal.

10/2 Painted bare metal spots. Installed Walbro fuel pump. Finished up cleaning the body where the gas tank resides. There was quite a bit more than I thought there was to clean up. More cleaning still needs to be done on the under body. I will work on that during the winter.

Installed the gas tank. What a bitch that job was. 1/8 of a tank of gas is still too much. It would all slosh to one side, and I couldn't lift it properly.

10/3 Drained the coolant to install the full size aluminum radiator. Found an oil leak at the rear end of the oil pan.

Now the pan has to be removed again and with a new gasket.

Got the radiator installed. Need to grind down center foot bracket. Also need to bend an A/C line. As it is smashing the fan and distorting it a little bit. Might not be able to remove the header with the fan shroud on the radiator. Will find out when I remove the oil pan again.

Still need to reinstall rear seats.

This seems to be turning into a never ending series of events. I think the F23 needs a Logic style header. This would give the A/C lines and fan shroud a bit more room to work with.

10/8 Was looking at my fan problem. Going to mount the condenser fan on the inside of the bumper. This will give me the clearance I need on the header and A/C lines. Will look into this tomorrow.

10/9 Drained radiator, to deal with the condenser fan and Civic radiator bracket. The new radiator is sitting on the Civic bracket. This is causing the mounting plates to bend up a bit instead of sitting flush.

Cut and ground off the Civic radiator mount. Removed the header before hand.

Prepped the area for paint where the old bracket was. cut/ground off. Primered, painted and cleared the area.

Drained the oil into the new oil drain pan to be used yet again in the engine.

Installed sending unit cover from changing the fuel pump. This is a royal bitch when the wagon compartment is in the rear. Installed the rear seat as well.

10/10 Pulled the oil pan off tonight. Found that I didn't use enough sealant around the pan. Ordered a new gasket from Honda. Going to re-use the gasket that I have, as it appears to be perfectly fine. Installed the radiator. Found to install the header, the petcock and the fan shroud both have to be removed.

10/11 Installed header, petcock, and fan shroud. Installed stiffener plate. Added anti-freeze and oil. Bled the coolant. Add plug for radiator fan. Added the drained oil again. If this works, I'm going to Seafoam the block and change the oil again.

Started up the car briefly. It fired right up. Need to take it on a test drive soon.

10/16 Stopped by the machine shop. F23 block has been done for awhile, waiting on the final cost. Pre paid $600.

Put the battery charger on Lola as she has been sitting for awhile. I think the brake light issue is causing a parasitic drain.

10/17 Had to shape the Rosko Racing Euro-R IACV adapter plate to work on the F23A1 intake manifold. I need to find the correct bolt for this.

Today I found out about the VMS oil breather cap today. Also tried to order a Vibrant 1189. If this order pulls through, I'm ordering the VMS oil cap breather. If all of this works out, I need to buy the PVC plug for the valve cover.

10/18 Went for a drive. Still having a miss at 4k rpm.

Wavetrac differential arrived today!

10/19 Still waiting to see if the Vibrant 1189 is still available. Haven't heard back from the place I ordered it from.

Checked the oil in Lola. Still looks good. There doesn't appear to be any leaks.

10/20 Removed the ECU from the car.

10/21 Checked wideband O2 input. The wire came out of the butt connector. Used a good connector this time. Haven't tested to see if this is working yet.

10/26 Installed new P2R TPS sensor and adjusted the to 0.45 volts closed. Also adjusted the butterfly stop screw as the throttle plate would stick closed sometimes.

Went to Pull and Save. Got 2000 Accord V6 front knuckles, left outer tail light, and a good '92-'93 OEM lip. Forgot them at the farm.

Cleaned oil from throttle body, intake piping, and some of the plenum. Need to get the exhaust evacuation system working.

10/30 Check to see if sedan door locks can fit into the coupe door panels. If so it might be possible to use a Legend coupe door handles with memory seat switches in it. If this can be done, it would be a huge update to our cars. Ordered a negative battery cable to go to the engine block. Also getting some bulk head connectors. This will clean up the wiring quite a bit.
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Old 12-04-2018, 10:59 PM   #753
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11/1 Ordered bulk head connectors to pass through the firewall, cable boots, military style battery connectors, lug connectors, lug crimping tool, and cable cutter.

Started to make the piece to fix the passenger side fog light. Using a plastic garbage can, cut into pieces the correct size. Once the epoxy has set I will use the dremel to shape this into the broken piece. Got 5 of the 9 pieces epoxied together.

11/2 Epoxied the last 4 pieces onto the stack. Hoping I can start shaping the block tomorrow.

11/3 Shaped the alignment post on the block using the bench grinder. Need to figure out how to mount the block on the rear of the fog light housing. A while back I got some JDM fog lights from Nick. The housing was broken making them unusable for regular use.

Split the fog light apart with the heat gun. Cut a plate out of plastic to glue the hole in the housing closed. Added a second patch to the outside of the fog light housing.

11/4 Epoxied the alignment post to the fog light housing.

11/6 Cut off battery cable ends. Installed military style battery connectors. Installed 3/8" 0 gauge lugs onto the ends of the battery cables. This resulted in a much cleaner install.

11/8 Took apart the interior by the ECU. Trying to figure out placement of the firewall bulk head connectors. Found the ground on the AEM wideband wasn't connected. This would account for the weird readings I was seeing in the logs. Also need to add charing/jumper posts in the trunk. Moved the ECU back on it's tray. The wires coming out of the plugs were smashed into the heating vents.

11/13 Reinstalled ECU. Went for a drive. The hiccup / miss is finally gone. No more issues at 4k rpm. New TPS sensor was the fix. I only decided to change this based on a drive last summer. On our way to Craters of the Moon, Idaho we got a CEL for the TPS. I double checked the connection and re-seated it to do something. This actually cleared the TPS code. This TPS was supposed to go onto the throttle body while the engine was still getting put together but I lost it in the garage. I found it and decided it needed to be on the car.

Changed driver's side rear tail light. Installed new OEM gasket while the light was out. I removed the weather stripping around the light as most of it was broken and rotted due to age. I have since pulled the other one off of the original tail light, but haven't gotten it onto the good light.

Removed the hubs from the '97-'01 Prelude rear knuckles. Removed the hubs from the '00 V6 Accord knuckles. Going to install the hubs into CB7 knuckles. This will allow me to keep the wheel bearing that bolt in, instead of being pressed in wheel bearings. Removed the studs from the front hubs. Bearings are still good on the Prelude hubs.

Recieved Kolossus Fleks Kable 0 gauge in black today. As well as the Bose amp and TSX map light from Nick.

11/15 Installed 3/8" battery lug on negative cable. Planned where the firewall bulk heads are going. Enblarged the existing hole and installed the positive bulk head. Got both cables attached to the terminals. Couldn't have asked for a cleaner outcome.

11/16 Started install of the new negative battery cable. Have to remove the rear seat, and passenger seat. Got the cable run up to the firewall. Cut a 1 1/4" hole with a hole saw just to the left of the positive connector. Had to sand the area surrounding the hole. I couldn't use a pilot bit in the hole saw. Installed the bulk head connector. Taped it off and painted the raw metal surrounding the bulk head. Ran out of 0 gauge lugs. Will order some more tomorrow. Cut the top left corner of the ECU bracket off. Vacuumed passenger side of the carpet. Added an extension wire to the output signal wire for the wideband O2 sensor. Installed the ECU to test fit the cuts. Need to cut more in the area. Then it will clear the bulk head connector.

11/17 Drilled out 5/16" and 1/4" 0 gauge lugs to 3/8". Swapped bulk head connectors. Finished painting the new bulk head hole while it was out. Cut the ECU tray a bit more. Cut a mounting tab off the Black ECU so I can run the power cable by it. Got the ECU tray installed with battery cables. Made a ground cable from the bulk head to transmission casing. Still have enough cable to make a ground cable from the transmission casing to the chassis. Put the chassis lug on the ground cable. I need to wait for more lugs to arrive to finish this cable.

Cut 2 pieces of 3/8" mild steel to raise the right rear corner of the passenger seat to level it out. Need to get another piece of 1/8" mild steel to make the last piece. Didn't make it to the store to buy the metal. Welded on the first piece and ran out of welding wire.

11/19 Bought more welding wire. Welded on the second piece to the foot bracket.

Recieved Pro-Flow crankcase evacuation exhaust stream piece. Went to Ace and bought 3/16" mild steel bar stock 1" wide. Cut a 2" piece of it off. Welded it onto the top of the seat foot. Bolted the seat and 4th bracket into place. Seat finally sits level. Will weld these together later.

11/22 Installed a 5/16" copper lug onto the transmission to chassis ground cable. Put heat shrink on both ends and installed it.

11/23 Bought a Cusco Powerball PS header for the F23A1. Took off bulk head to transmission ground cable, and put on heat shrink. Reinstalled cable with a new Fastronix boot. Got new 2 gauge positive battery cable. It is smaller than my current cable which is 2 gauge as well. Going to look at other options.

Bought an ultra sonic cleaner. Got busy with cleaning bolts. Should have them all cleaned soon.

11/24 Finished installed battery cable with boots at both ends. Cleaned more bolts in the ultra sonic cleaner.

11/26 Ordered ARP extended wheel studs, wheel stud installer tool, and extended lug nuts. Finalized order with ESP.net for front upper control arms.

11/28 Received Cusco Powerball header for the F23A1 head.

11/30 Received Muteki lug nuts, ARP studs and stud installer.

12/4 Received new CB7 front wheel bearings. I went to press the hubs into them and realized that the hubs are too large of a diameter to press into the wheel bearings. I'm going to order a single Odyssey wheel bearing and see if it will bolt into the CB7 knuckle. If so this will be yet another solution to 5 lug your car while retaining your stock knuckles.
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Old 12-04-2018, 11:00 PM   #754
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Alright guys and gals. I will get the pictures up over the course of the next few days. I'm only roughly 3 months behind at this point, so it's going to take me awhile to get this all sorted out, uploaded and posted to the forum. I haven't fallen off the planet, just haven't had much time to keep this MRT up to date.
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Old 12-05-2018, 05:15 AM   #755
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Great work. I know you know this but they do make a oil pan bolt repair kit. Basically reaming out the old threads for new and new bolt. Seen a South Main Auto youtube video recently where he did that to a Ford.
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:19 AM   #756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
Great work. I know you know this but they do make a oil pan bolt repair kit. Basically reaming out the old threads for new and new bolt. Seen a South Main Auto youtube video recently where he did that to a Ford.
The main reason I wanted the machine shop to repair the oil pan, which I thought was damaged. Was to make sure that is was all done perfectly as I have the OEM aluminum oil pan from the H22A4. Turns out I had cracked the extension for the Fumoto oil valve. Mike at the machine shop wanted to finish pulling the threads out of the pan, and he turned the extension a bit with a wrench and it just broke the rest of the way off.
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:08 AM   #757
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On Wednesday evening I received new CB7 wheel bearings. I went to press the 00 V6 Accord hubs into them. Found out this won't work as the hub shaft diameter is larger than the CB7 wheel bearing opening. After some research it appears that Odyssey hubs will press into the CB7 wheel bearings. I'm going to order a set in a few days.

Last night I received my ITR rotors from Mark. I figured it would be a good time to see what a rear wheel looks like with my 18" A-Spec wheels off my '04 Acura TL. All was going well until I tried to tighten the nut down on the spindle threads. From reading most people were able to barely stake their nuts. Well once tight my nut still had about 4 threads sticking out. The end of the spindle was in the main part of the nut with no hope of staking it. I tried to tighten it down a bit more and ended up stripping the threads off the spindle. Resulting in needing a new knuckle on the rear. My entire evening was pretty much ruined over this. I think the solution will be to tear the knuckle off of old Lola, even though I really don't want to. But it will allow me to move the car out of the garage and work on the other vehicles, in the mean time. Since I won't be able to get to the junkyard until around Christmas time.
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