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Weak engine turnover after starter replacement

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    Weak engine turnover after starter replacement

    Yesterday I let my battery die cleaning out the car listening to the radio, had my sis give me a jump and it started up. This morning went to go re park and it started up...about 45 minutes later went to start it again and nothing, well just the signs of a bad starter so I get a new starter, put it in. Since the first start with the new starter till preasant the car has a very weak turn over like the battery barely had enough juice to power the motor and it almost stalls like it has to catch it's breath before it actually fires up. any advice is appreciated

    #2
    Get your charging system tested

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      #3
      Battery and alternator?

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        #4
        If all you did after killing the battery was jump it and move it, you probably didn't charge the battery very much. Check the battery voltage before attempting to start it again, a good battery will be about 12.4 volts; with the engine running you should see about 14 - 14.5 across the battery. If you have good battery voltage and it still struggles to turn over, make sure all the battery cable connections are good at both ends.
        90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
        08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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          #5
          Ok so after further evaluation and having battery and alternator tested (pass) it just doesn't fire right up after I turn the key I have to hold the key until it catches which is usually within 2-3 seconds sometimes a bit longer. I'm thinking maybe (less likely) I bought a faulty starter or my flywheel is missing some teeth, these are just guesses though

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            #6
            Just so I understand, when you say "it just doesn't fire right up", do you mean the engine is cranking, but there is no ignition (cylinders firing) for several seconds? Is it not that it take 2-3 seconds for the engine to start turning, correct? Have you charged the battery fully since you killed it?

            If the engine is turning ok, then it is not the starter or missing teeth on the flywheel. Missing teeth on the flywheel would be manifested by the starter motor whirring (probably accompanied by some grind noise as well) and the engine not turning at all. It might manage to turn the flywheel enough that if you tried again it might catch. I haven't had this happen to a car in a long time.

            Does this happen only when the engine is cold? Will it start almost immediately if the engine is warm?

            With the engine cold, cycle the key to "on" (do not go to "start" yet), when the check engine light goes out, turn the key to "off", turn the key to "on", when the check engine light goes out, turn the key to "off", turn the key to "on", wait a second, then go to "start"; does the engine start much quicker?
            Last edited by Fleetw00d; 04-07-2017, 11:18 PM.
            90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
            08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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              #7
              I've experienced faulty remanufactured starters a number of times (4 times in one day, even!) The issue with those starters was that the solenoid didn't kick the gear out far enough to catch the flywheel. I'm not sure if that could be your problem, but it's worth mentioning.
              A faulty starter can also be a power drain.






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                #8
                If you can, getting your starter tested at a car parts store is helpful.
                I'm faster then a prius

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                  #9
                  If it's the solenoid, as with the ones I had trouble with, they appear to function. The solenoid pops the gear out... just not far enough. We tested them all before we realized that. Definitely test at the store, though. It's a pain in the ass to learn you got a faulty unit after installing it! Especially if you have an auto. They're a bit more annoying to change than a manual (my friend's was an auto... that's the one we swapped 4 times before getting a good one.)






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                    #10
                    Ok so the second start e has just been out in battery is 100% charges and alternator tested good...but at this point when I turn the key to accessory everything works but when I go to turn on there is no sou,d in the engine bay just a small click which seems to be in the dash area, I checked all fusesthere was a blown 10 under the hood (not in the fusebox) in a fuse holder between 2 wires near the left brake fluid container, I replaced it and still nothing

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                      #11
                      *second starter has just been out in*

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Tuage View Post
                        Ok so the second start e has just been out in battery is 100% charges and alternator tested good...but at this point when I turn the key to accessory everything works but when I go to turn on there is no sou,d in the engine bay just a small click which seems to be in the dash area, I checked all fusesthere was a blown 10 under the hood (not in the fusebox) in a fuse holder between 2 wires near the left brake fluid container, I replaced it and still nothing
                        The fuse wasn't in either fuse box (under-hood or under-dash)? That's odd. I'm not aware of any fuses that aren't in a fuse box. Perhaps a previous owner added a circuit somewhere. That could make diagnosing the problem more difficult. Can you get a picture of the fuse and its location? Can you trace the wire to see where it goes?






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                          #13
                          Ok if that fuse isn't normal...there has been a kill switch installed by a previous owner that's probably what it is then, pull that fuse under the dash and car won't start period

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                            #14
                            So the last post have me the idea to check the kill switch which was in I pushed it in (not sure if seated any further down), and put the car in neutral and it starts...does this neutral thing ring any bells im not convinced it's the kill switch

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Well...since you let the battery die, and you got a new starter, and its still weakly turning over..id say have a parts store test the battery

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