V6 Swap questions

[Shay91Racer]

I am going to be glued to this thread... Using the CL J32 I presume.

Yes or the TL both type-S models push 260hp and thanks for your interest. Hope to give you something to look forward to.

The J series is a 60° design, whereas the C series you'd find in the 5th gen Accord, which is 90°. While more compact from front to back. I'd assume the J series is taller than the C series for this reason. I haven't seen them side by side to compare, nor do I have any measurements... but I'd imagine that could be a reason why anyone with a J swap in any non-V6-equipped Honda seems to have to cut the hood.
If you could find a way to mount it without hood clearance issues, that would be amazing.

I will look into finding measurement on the J series. Be it going to the JY for one or whatever. I would have to believe that it is possible but again, I'd have to have it in front of me to tear down. Nonetheless we will stay optimistic about it until we are proven otherwise.

Edit: I've read that the J32 is 3-5 inches taller than the B18 which is similar to that of the H22, depending on the intake manifold. The J32 is shorter in width as well.

*If money permits and luck would have it this weekend, I'll make a trip and see if I can find a J32a2 may have to settle for the a1, but I'll check its compression a bring it home*

[Apexbender]

Did you get the engine?

[GeoffM]

If you use custom motor mounts (you'll have to anyways) you can probably get it to sit lower. Then you wouldn't have to cut the hood.

[speedfr3ak]

c32

C32 then swap heads 3.5 l yada yada but c series hood closes I repeat hood closes and the legends 95 gs has a 6 spd tranny its fast as fu$k man in a cb .....not done yet with mine..........I personally could never do a h swap just cause everyone has one not original at all and to easy brotha keep it original u don't wanna be a Honda copy cat1!!!!

[Jarrett]

How on earth would you know if a C32A with a 6-speed in a CB is fast if you're not even done with yours? And why do you keep posting nonsense in people's threads?

[deevergote]

C32 then swap heads 3.5 l yada yada but c series hood closes I repeat hood closes and the legends 95 gs has a 6 spd tranny its fast as fu$k man in a cb .....not done yet with mine..........I personally could never do a h swap just cause everyone has one not original at all and to easy brotha keep it original u don't wanna be a Honda copy cat1!!!!

This thread is about a J swap, not a C swap or an H22 swap. Why are you even posting this nonsense? Just to tell us how awesome your unfinished car is?

[RustyBucket]

I just had a thought about the axle problem. I know I may be way off with this idea, but maybe it's worth considering...

The major problem is the spline count and the length difference between the CL shafts and the CB7 shafts. How much difference is there between the inner joints on the two different axle shafts, other than spline count?

Bascially, I am getting at one question:

Would it be possible to swap the CL cups onto the CB7 shafts?

[deevergote]

Anything that gets this thread back on topic is worth posting!

What do you mean? Essentially putting the CL ends on the CB center shaft?

[RustyBucket]

Anything that gets this thread back on topic is worth posting!

What do you mean? Essentially putting the CL ends on the CB center shaft?

Enough bickering, back to business!

Yup, that is what I was meaning... Swapping all or part of the CL inner joint onto the CB7 shaft.

The inner CV joint is probably going to look something like this:


If the inner bearings on the joint are the same size on both vehicles, you may be able to get away with swapping just the outer cup. If they aren't, then you might be able to swap the inner bearing and cup as well, assuming that the shaft diameter and spline count are the same.

[deevergote]

I was looking for a picture like that! That's exactly what I needed to understand the guts of an axle (never took one apart myself... I should, since I have Prelude axles in my basement that I'll never use...)

I think it would also be possible for a good fabricator to simply cut the axles apart, and weld the CL inner half to a CB outer half, while maintaining the correct length.

[wildBill83]

I was looking for a picture like that! That's exactly what I needed to understand the guts of an axle (never took one apart myself... I should, since I have Prelude axles in my basement that I'll never use...)

I think it would also be possible for a good fabricator to simply cut the axles apart, and weld the CL inner half to a CB outer half, while maintaining the correct length.

Welding may be a problem without a propper jig to keep the runout within spec. You may end up with a wobble in the shaft that will get exaggerated while driving high speeds. I think swapping the CV is a viable solution, go to Autozone and get the cup kits and try it on the axle, it can't hurt and if you don't install in the car you can return for a full refund after measuring.

After removing the boot the CV seperates very easily, all that holds it in place then is the grease.

[steelbluesleepR]

if you know the length of axles and what car the transmission you are using is out of, let me know and i can find out what you need to buy. i am in the R&D dept at the company that provides all of the brand new axles to autozone and Oreileys among others and can look stuff up by length, spline count, etc. if i can save you some money from going to the driveshaft shop i will. every OEM uses only a few inboard joint styles and a few outboard joint styles, and then mix and match lengths and styles for each applications.

edit: the funny thing is my company supplied those images in the OP, and some other company stole those images and added some text to them lol.

[RustyBucket]

I just had another thought about the axle length cross my mind this morning.

The CB7 shafts will only be the right length for the swap if the differential for the J series transmission falls in the same location relative to the wheels as the F series differential and also if the J series differential is the same width as the F series differential.

It may be possible to make sure the differential is in the right location by careful mount design, although the dimensions and shape of the J-series may make this impossible.

SteelbluesleepR's access to information may come in very handy when it comes to mixing and matching shaft lengths and joint styles.

Of course, this is all theory at this point until we either get some measurements or somebody drops a J into a CB7 to see how it all lines up.

[RustyBucket]

Oh, and by the way, somebody local to me is selling a J32a with a 6-speed tranny, clutch and a few other associated items for only $1000.

It's terribly tempting to do something incredibly irresponsible.

[tn_accords]

Going to being keeping a close eye on this. Going tomorrow or Friday to pickup a cl type s motor with auto tranny. Basically the car got totaled and I am getting everything I think I would need for the swap as I have done plenty by now. Just mad that its auto but I am hoping to make it work if I can't find a 6 speed... Which is rare. Going to just drop the front cradle with harness and ecu and go from there. I can make my own mounts if needed.

Axle issue should be easy cause I know how to take them apart and use inners or outers of an axle and make one work. Another way to cheat in the lengths is how lowered tour vehicle is cause that does play in the length of them. Stock axles are designed to work with stock height. The lower you go the shorter the axle length needs to be to work like it needs to be. So if the lengths are just slightly smaller the. I would try it if you were lowered about two inches.

On the hood clearance .... It's all about the mounts. Hasport has two different mount kits out. One is the original set which makes the hood stick out and the newest ones which some say you can close the hood no problem but the oil pan sits closer to the ground. Again...it comes down to preference and drivability.

Transmission issues..... If you go auto then it's more about wiring then anything. For the standard shifts .... Just make sure you get the cables and shifter. Any more info on the auto will be looked into once I get more into it.

Engine issues to be considered. Depending on what year motor you get the first things to look at is if the motor is a DIS or not and also if drive-by wire or not. Of course the early models are better for that purpose cause they have a distributor and throttle cable. If you savy about wiring and making things work the above is not that complicated. If you get the ecu with the newer model motor then the dizzy issue is solved. The throttle by wire is complicated. Need to swap the TB for an older one and do some wiring to wire in the tps. Haven't gotten that far to look into that deep but that is what direction I would take.

So far that is what I know.

Have to do this the poor mans way cause that is what I have to work with and that is how most are on here. So why not try it that way and see what happens. My goal is to put it my CE1 but might put it one of the CB's laying around here first to see if it will run cause its basically the same thing for the 5th gens.

Might bring in a couple more ppl in on this too.