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Old 01-20-2017, 09:02 PM   #1
lbean122214
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1992 honda accord lx turbo build

Hello, have been a member of this site since i bought my firs accord and wanted to turbo my f22a1 ( till i sold it and bought a ridgeline! ) but ive just aquired another cb7 and am planning my build. I was wondering if i should take my head off and have it ported and polished springs and valves and ect redone and an arp bolt kit, along with im sorry but budget is tight but an ebay complete turbo kit. I hear a lot of bad things about them but i know for sure i can replace junk parts for qaulity as i go along. I also know i need a different computer and proper tune to get maz efficiency and engine life. I was also thinkng about going to the junkyard and finding a non v tech f23 or h23 head and having thay one rebuilt but i dont know exactly which one would be best or the full code ie f22a1/ f23a1? sorry for the long question and yes i have done my research and half the time i get to a thread on here someo ne asks a question and is told to do some research and have no experience with theyre car, but i can proudly i have a decent amount of knowledge on the f22a1 so dont give me crap please
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:19 PM   #2
Raf99
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So you want to "get maz efficiency and engine life" but you want to use cheap parts and you budget is tight and you have done your research?

If you are going to go turbo, do it right the first time. If you've done your research I don't need to tell you why.
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Old 01-21-2017, 05:42 AM   #3
Grumpys93
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The head on an F22 isn't the issue when motors give out. It's the ring lands on stock pistons. So if you want any reliability I would at the very minimum upgrade your pistons. I won't lecture you, you've done your research you know what's in store for you if you don't do it right the first time.
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:02 AM   #4
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A turbo will push plenty of air into the engine. So, you don't need to worry about any performance upgrades to the head, such as porting or different camshaft or valves. Although an ARP bolt kit might be prudent.

As Grumpys says, the key is replacing the pistons. Otherwise you are just playing roulette every time you fire the engine up. And while you have the pistons out, check the bearing clearance. The turbo will put more load on the bearings, so it is important that they are not worn.
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:28 AM   #5
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I will also agree with bypassing the head work and focusing on putting your money in the block and turbo set up. It is best not to cheap out on the bottom end and turbo. The head can easily wait for another day if you feel that an upgrade is required.
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Old 01-22-2017, 01:02 PM   #6
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There's some great advice given here. The head isn't the issue. The stock head flows just fine for street turbo use. It's the block you absolutely need to modify.
Cheap Chinese turbo kits found on eBay may look appealing, but a failure of any number of components can toast even a properly built engine. If you put $1000 and a few dozen hours into building your bottom end, the last thing you want is your crap turbo to come apart and send shrapnel into your combustion champers (I know at least one person that experienced such a thing.) You definitely don't want your cheap wastegate to fail, causing a boost spike that feels GREAT until a piston punches a hole in your passenger seat (or your passenger...)

My advice:
Go on raceeng.com and buy some upgraded rods and pistons. They're probably the most affordable option that is worth trusting. New OEM replacement pistons will NOT last, and stock rods will not be compatible with aftermarket pistons unless they are modified (and unless you're experienced in such a thing, I don't suggest trusting modified rods.) You will need aftermarket forged internals. Pick up some ARP head studs to ensure the head is on as securely as possible. Factory bolts can stretch, and the extra strain of turbo can cause the head gasket to blow out.

Then go on treadstoneperformance.com and buy one of their kits. They use quality components. Sure, it's $2000 instead of $600... but unlike the $600 eBay kits, the Treadstone kit will actually last, and won't likely nuke your engine due to component failure.

Finally (or better yet, while you're collecting the rest of the stuff...) find yourself a good, experienced tuner with a dyno (or at least with access to one.) Make sure they are familiar with tuning Hondas. Once you find a tuner with a good reputation, ask them what engine management system they prefer to use... and buy that. Don't roll up with an AEM EMS when your tuner is most familiar with Hondata. Buy what your tuner knows, so you can be sure they tune your ECU properly. Most good tuners charge by the hour... so you don't want to pay them for the time it takes to learn the engine management system you arbitrarily bought!
In many cases, a simple chipped P06 ECU will work just fine. As long as you aren't planning on making crazy power or doing any fancy racing, the basic tunability of a chipped ECU will be sufficient. However, trust your tuner's word, and follow their instructions.
You CAN NOT run your turbo car on a stock ECU, or on a "basemap" (those are intended to get the car running so it can be tuned... you never want to drive on it.) Your ECU MUST be tuned specifically for your setup, and it can only be done by a knowledgeable tuner using data collected from your running engine. Any tuner that suggests they can sell you a "tune" without ever touching your car is a scam artist.


Keep in mind once you go turbo, you're going to want a clutch that can handle the additional power. Don't get cheap eBay crap, unless you enjoy dropping your transmission. Buy something that is designed for the power you intend to put out. You don't need a sintered iron clutch disc capable of holding 1000+ horsepower when you're only putting down 250whp. More is not always better. If you intend to make 250whp, get a clutch designed to handle that much, or SLIGHTLY more. That's all you need. It will give you the best performance, as well as the longest life.

You will likely want to upgrade your brakes as well, since more engine power should have more stopping power. Suspension refresh or upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea either... as would new engine mounts. With all that stuff, buy quality. DO NOT cheap out. No Chinese/Taiwanese coilovers, no $7 "economy" brake pads, no generic "suspension rebuild kits" found on eBay or Amazon... buy quality. You want to maintain control of your vehicle, especially once you've doubled its power output.
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Old 01-23-2017, 09:31 AM   #7
Grumpys93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deevergote View Post
There's some great advice given here. The head isn't the issue. The stock head flows just fine for street turbo use. It's the block you absolutely need to modify.
Cheap Chinese turbo kits found on eBay may look appealing, but a failure of any number of components can toast even a properly built engine. If you put $1000 and a few dozen hours into building your bottom end, the last thing you want is your crap turbo to come apart and send shrapnel into your combustion champers (I know at least one person that experienced such a thing.) You definitely don't want your cheap wastegate to fail, causing a boost spike that feels GREAT until a piston punches a hole in your passenger seat (or your passenger...)

My advice:
Go on raceeng.com and buy some upgraded rods and pistons. They're probably the most affordable option that is worth trusting. New OEM replacement pistons will NOT last, and stock rods will not be compatible with aftermarket pistons unless they are modified (and unless you're experienced in such a thing, I don't suggest trusting modified rods.) You will need aftermarket forged internals. Pick up some ARP head studs to ensure the head is on as securely as possible. Factory bolts can stretch, and the extra strain of turbo can cause the head gasket to blow out.

Then go on treadstoneperformance.com and buy one of their kits. They use quality components. Sure, it's $2000 instead of $600... but unlike the $600 eBay kits, the Treadstone kit will actually last, and won't likely nuke your engine due to component failure.

Finally (or better yet, while you're collecting the rest of the stuff...) find yourself a good, experienced tuner with a dyno (or at least with access to one.) Make sure they are familiar with tuning Hondas. Once you find a tuner with a good reputation, ask them what engine management system they prefer to use... and buy that. Don't roll up with an AEM EMS when your tuner is most familiar with Hondata. Buy what your tuner knows, so you can be sure they tune your ECU properly. Most good tuners charge by the hour... so you don't want to pay them for the time it takes to learn the engine management system you arbitrarily bought!
In many cases, a simple chipped P06 ECU will work just fine. As long as you aren't planning on making crazy power or doing any fancy racing, the basic tunability of a chipped ECU will be sufficient. However, trust your tuner's word, and follow their instructions.
You CAN NOT run your turbo car on a stock ECU, or on a "basemap" (those are intended to get the car running so it can be tuned... you never want to drive on it.) Your ECU MUST be tuned specifically for your setup, and it can only be done by a knowledgeable tuner using data collected from your running engine. Any tuner that suggests they can sell you a "tune" without ever touching your car is a scam artist.


Keep in mind once you go turbo, you're going to want a clutch that can handle the additional power. Don't get cheap eBay crap, unless you enjoy dropping your transmission. Buy something that is designed for the power you intend to put out. You don't need a sintered iron clutch disc capable of holding 1000+ horsepower when you're only putting down 250whp. More is not always better. If you intend to make 250whp, get a clutch designed to handle that much, or SLIGHTLY more. That's all you need. It will give you the best performance, as well as the longest life.

You will likely want to upgrade your brakes as well, since more engine power should have more stopping power. Suspension refresh or upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea either... as would new engine mounts. With all that stuff, buy quality. DO NOT cheap out. No Chinese/Taiwanese coilovers, no $7 "economy" brake pads, no generic "suspension rebuild kits" found on eBay or Amazon... buy quality. You want to maintain control of your vehicle, especially once you've doubled its power output.
On top of that since you will be dropping your transmission to replace the clutch might as well replace the rear main seal. Actually all the seals on the block

Just remember the rule of 3.
You can have a fast car that is reliable but it won't be cheap
You can have a fast car that is cheap but won't be reliable
Or you can have a cheap reliable car but it won't be fast.
I have yet to find someone who has found a fast car that is reliable and cheap.

Boosting a car that wasn't designed out of the factory to be boosted costs a lot of money to be reliable and can be a constant headache. But it sure it worth the rush We aren't trying to turn you off from boosting your car, we just want you to be well informed on what needs to happen and what could happen. Knowledge is power my friend! Fortunately for you, you came at a time where a lot of the weak points have already been discovered by previous members and there are mounds of information about how people have built their motor and reached numbers most of us never dream an f-series could reach.

Good luck with which ever way you choose to go and we will be here to help you along the way.
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Last edited by Grumpys93; 01-23-2017 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 01-25-2017, 09:38 PM   #8
2.2 buggy
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I am taking it you still have your ridgeline as a dd. If you want to have a budget build it can be done ebay turbos are not the best but yes they work. Make sure you get a oil restrictor not runing one is the number one killer on ebay turbos. I have run them up to 30 psi and the have done good expect to rebuild it in a year oil seals suck put a garret rebuild kit in and your golden. Keep in mind you got a stock bottom end and don't think you going to put 400 hp down 250 can be done reliable. But understand it coul brake a ring land any time. And I would not turbo anything without head studs and put a h23 intake and leave head alone untill you get over 400 hp
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:37 PM   #9
lbean122214
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Thank you so mich guys, it really means a lot. I am definitely willing to take the time and money to get it built right. So i will have about 2 to 3 grand to drop into this build. I know i will already be making the car look decent again new head and tail lights, grille, bumper, possibly a carbon hood, and exhaust system. I will definitely get the arp head bolt and main kits, forget about the head swap and all for now, but what all should i rebuild in the bottom end besides the pistons? Any suggestions of brands? Ive decides to take the time to get it how i want it to look and building it for boost safely rather than fast and cheap, plus my ridgeline keeps me pretty happy eapecially running 31s on it haha definitely turns peoples heads when they see a honda rolling through trails lol. But anyways thanks again for your help! Any info or advice is greatly appreciated and welcomed!
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Old 02-11-2017, 01:41 PM   #10
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2-3 grand is basically a budget build. You'll be able to get internals ($1000 if you shop smart), clutch ($600 or so for something worth buying), fuel management (injectors, pump, ECU, and a wideband o2 sensor... another $600 if you shop VERY smart). You're already at $2200. The cheapest Treadstone turbo kit adds $1600 to the bill. You can piece together your own kit, but using quality components, even used, you're probably going to come close to $1000, if not more. I'd say the new quality stuff from Treadstone is worth their price.

That's bare basics. Cheapest forged internals you can get (as I said, Race Engineering has a variety of options... the cheapest of which would probably hold up fine for a mild build... if you want a higher quality brand, Arias makes great stuff.) Stock head and valvetrain. Stock axles. Stock mounts. That doesn't include an exhaust, an intake (which will be custom, based on the location of your turbo), and most importantly, the tune.

I'd plan on AT LEAST $5000 in total to get everything running reliably. Even then, you're going to have to do research and buy the most affordable quality parts that you can get. No overbuilding. You'll have to have a specific goal in mind, and buy parts that will get you there.

You CAN spend $2000 and boost your car... but unless you get some MAJOR hookups on parts and tuning, you're asking for trouble.
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Old 02-11-2017, 02:08 PM   #11
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Also, before you buy ANYTHING, I suggest buying these three books:



The official factory service manual for your specific car. This will tell you absolutely everything you need to know about taking your car apart and putting it back together. Crappy Haynes/Chiltons stuff doesn't even come close.


Honda/Acura Engine Performance by Mike Kojima. This book focuses largely on D and B series engines found in Civics and Integras. However, the majority of that information will translate to your application. Kojima gives a TON of useful information, much of which is about turbo builds.


Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. This will provide you with more information than you're likely to ever need when it comes to building a turbo setup. This is where practically everyone starts (aside from those that learn by blowing things up a few times... this is the cheaper way to learn.)


Buy those books, and use them extensively in deciding what parts you want and need for your build. Not only will those books increase your understanding and abilities, they will also provide you with a solid baseline on which we can build in guiding you through this project.
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