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Old 12-24-2013, 02:46 PM   #21
Flushcb
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Thank you both so much!
Now I'm just waiting for all my parts to arrive and I can get to doing this swap.
This is my first swap ever, I can barely wait.
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:32 PM   #22
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:24 PM   #23
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I've hit a problem. I'm missing the motor mount stud on the engine:
Could I tap out the stud from the F after I've taken it out and put it on the H? How would I do that?
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:34 PM   #24
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There's not supposed to be a stud there. It looks good to go to me.
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:47 PM   #25
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Oh okay. I was a little worried for a sec. So it's only supposed to have one?
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Old 12-25-2013, 01:17 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flushcb View Post
Oh okay. I was a little worried for a sec. So it's only supposed to have one?
yes... google h22a cb7 youll get a lot of pictures... but now to the important part.. that engine looks like its been sitting in the elements for years..you dont have an upper timing belt cover.. you need to replace your timing belt and balance shaft belts and check over all the idler pulley and belt cogs. clean the surface rust off and do a once over. whatever jackass that thought itd be cooler to not have the upper timing cover was terribly wrong.get a new cover. Its not cool not having one..until the day you actually dont and need to cut cam pulley reliefs into the valve cover.
Id also go in and change the seals that have been sitting exposed, I bet the cam seals on the timing side are hard as rock now. Im sure all the seals are oem. Im just trying to save you heartache down the road. Plop that engine in as it sits and youll have a pretty boat anchor before you roll 10,000 miles.. but whatev its your stuff. good luck

edit: Oh I see the aftermarket timing belt tensioner pulley(no upper timing cover explained).. thats more of a B series thing. The timing cover is a lot more important then that wheel on a stock engine.
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Old 12-25-2013, 09:47 AM   #27
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I'll get to all that soon, I figured it would have a few bad seals. /: I'll be ordering some tomorrow then. I appreciate your help btw!
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Old 12-25-2013, 10:46 AM   #28
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I'll get to all that soon, I figured it would have a few bad seals. /: I'll be ordering some tomorrow then. I appreciate your help btw!
good man, yw .. i just shake my head when people are amped up to swap in an H and do it fast, but keep the 20+ year old rubber inside, thrash on them then on here asking about leaking oil..coolant..blown up motor etc.,. I found a FULL gasket kit for fairly cheap and Ive been pleased with them. It includes 99% of everything
http://www.yonaka.com/Complete_Engin..._p/ymgk006.htm

When I ordered mine I found it on *bay for ~89 bucks. Gates timing belt. Password JDM billet cam seal plug.

If you have any more questions just ask, were all here to help. Good luck



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Old 12-25-2013, 12:13 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by illinois_erik View Post
good man, yw .. i just shake my head when people are amped up to swap in an H and do it fast, but keep the 20+ year old rubber inside, thrash on them then on here asking about leaking oil..coolant..blown up motor etc.,. I found a FULL gasket kit for fairly cheap and Ive been pleased with them. It includes 99% of everything
http://www.yonaka.com/Complete_Engin..._p/ymgk006.htm

When I ordered mine I found it on *bay for ~89 bucks. Gates timing belt. Password JDM billet cam seal plug.

If you have any more questions just ask, were all here to help. Good luck



Thank you! Yeah I'm amped to do this swap but I want it to be done the right way, so no leaks or oil being burned.
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Old 12-25-2013, 04:23 PM   #30
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H22 are known to use some oil. SO don't be too bummed if you burn some oil.

Mineral spirits prob would have been easier to use to clean the motor rather than your shower.

steve
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Old 12-25-2013, 04:33 PM   #31
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H22 are known to use some oil. SO don't be too bummed if you burn some oil.

Mineral spirits prob would have been easier to use to clean the motor rather than your shower.

steve

Naw hot water and dawn dish soap took all the grunge off, even the pistons, everything looks brand new in the shortblock now. LoL i was in a 2nd floor 600 sq ft apartment. Used a dolly to bring the engine upstairs Mineral spirits probably wouldve tipped off I was getting industrial in there lol
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Old 12-25-2013, 04:43 PM   #32
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Haha, that must have been a sight, pulling the block to your apartment lol. Aren't the cam seals, or plugs or billets, whatever they're called the same on both ends of the cam?
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Old 12-25-2013, 05:48 PM   #33
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h22sparkle may have said something they shouldn't have...
Motor so good he had to bathe in it lol.
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Old 12-25-2013, 08:00 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Flushcb View Post
Haha, that must have been a sight, pulling the block to your apartment lol. Aren't the cam seals, or plugs or billets, whatever they're called the same on both ends of the cam?
Oh yeah I did it at like 1 am.. this was the whole engine too. put it on the dolly ratchet strapped it and took about 15min getting it up the stairs quiet as a mouse, all by myself lmao.
The one cam seal I mentioned is on the left side, intake cam. They have a reputation for going bad/leaking. So the billet one is an upgrade. Ill put a little hondabond on it too. The rest you can use rubber, and I dont think theres any like upgrades for those. just OEM or AM

Left side:



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Old 12-25-2013, 08:13 PM   #35
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Awesome lol so billet upgrade on the intake cam and the rest is rubber. How would I replace the seals on the timing side? I'm learning a lot lol thank you again.
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Old 12-25-2013, 09:33 PM   #36
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illinois_erik is absoulely correct replace the rubber and the seals It's a lot easier NOW out of the car. Easier to do it right than do it twice. Even if it meant waiting a month or two to save a little more cash. Replacing the seals and belts ARE good preventive maintenance. Doing so means many miles of driving fun with very few worrys
I ordered many of my parts from Rockauto.com but, ALL of the seals (front & rear main seals, balance shaft seal and molded hoses for the oil cooler are Honda)
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Old 12-25-2013, 10:41 PM   #37
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I wont mind waiting a little while longer to swap, to assure that the H will hold up and be reliable lol. I'll be ordering that kit and a new aftermarket cam seal soon!
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Old 12-25-2013, 11:00 PM   #38
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The H 22 has an auto-tensioner that NEEDS to be swaped out.
Many people do the H23 tensioner swap, if you search on here you will find lots of information on how to do it.
Another alternative is kaizenspeed’s H22 timing tensioner, it directly replaces the stock H22 auto tensioner.http://www.kstuned.com/products/h22-timing-tensioner
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Old 12-26-2013, 12:09 AM   #39
Flushcb
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Yeah I've scemmed through a few posts about it, it's seems pretty easy. Idk how to get the lower valve cover off though, it's like the pulley is in the way. Do I have to take it off?
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Old 12-26-2013, 12:13 AM   #40
Flushcb
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Could I get this little kit to replace the automatic tensioner?
: http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=41997
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