Is it worth it

[Grumpys93]

Ok so update on the car, the motor is an H22a, I didn't notice any leaks. It had one hasport mount on the driver side rest are stock. Does have a CEL but didn't have time to jump it. Spark wire plugs were not coated in oil. But I forgot my spark plug puller so I couldn't pull the plugs. The car will turn over sluggishly even when attempting to jump it. The swap was done very well. They said they bought the car 2 years ago and it stopped cranking two weeks ago. I don't think it's the starter because it turns over.

The bad thing I found was there was little to no oil on the dipstick when I dipped it 3 times and the little bit I got looked like it hasn't been changed in a while.
And I didn't check to see if the car had gas in it

I wanted to pull the valve cover but it started to rain heavily and I didn't want any water getting in the motor

So is it worth it to buy it and part it out or take a chance and hope it's the distributor or something with the automatic transmission? Which I know nothing about. If I had my spark plug puller I'm sure it would have told me more what's going on such as if the plug was wet, or had oil on it or if it was igniting. Heck it could be something as simple as a bad coil or igniter

I did notice when I jumped it, I initially saw sparks come off the battery to chassis ground. Not sure if that ground being loose would cause it not to crank over.

If there was plenty of oil on the dipstick and it looked decent, I would have paid for it right then and there. But seeing no oil makes me wonder how long it went without oil and what damage was done internally.
Thoughts?

[CyborgGT]

No start sounds like a fuel or ignition problem.

That's definitely a tough call. A known good long block from HMO is around $1500 shipped, and you want a known good engine in your car or else why bother? Depending on how you go about getting rid of the rest of the car, this engine shouldn't cost more than $300. But without knowing how simple or serious the problem is, repair costs are unknown. If it is just fuel or ignition, you get away fairly cheaply. The fact that it's a JDM engine means a better chance of relatively low miles (which would explain the lack of leaks), but that's just hoping - especially if it was ran for any length of time on low/bad oil.

If you're leaning towards taking the risk, what you need is tools and real time to look at the engine. At the very least, I'd pull the oil pan and filter to see if there's any metal in there. Also pull the plugs so you can rotate the engine manually to see if it feels like it's starting to show signs of seizing up or if it feels pretty smooth. Look under the valve cover for obvious signs of wear as well.

[Grumpys93]

No start sounds like a fuel or ignition problem.

That's definitely a tough call. A known good long block from HMO is around $1500 shipped, and you want a known good engine in your car or else why bother? Depending on how you go about getting rid of the rest of the car, this engine shouldn't cost more than $300. But without knowing how simple or serious the problem is, repair costs are unknown. If it is just fuel or ignition, you get away fairly cheaply. The fact that it's a JDM engine means a better chance of relatively low miles (which would explain the lack of leaks), but that's just hoping - especially if it was ran for any length of time on low/bad oil.

If you're leaning towards taking the risk, what you need is tools and real time to look at the engine. At the very least, I'd pull the oil pan and filter to see if there's any metal in there. Also pull the plugs so you can rotate the engine manually to see if it feels like it's starting to show signs of seizing up or if it feels pretty smooth. Look under the valve cover for obvious signs of wear as well.

The other thing to is that the fuel pump could have gone out in the accord. Which I could careless because I don't plan to use that accord, which would then fix my issue if I were to put it in the cb.

I have the tools for sure, the time is the issue and should I spend 500 on a motor that may have to be rebuilt or use that 500 towards the motor im already building?

When I saw this post I only wanted it because I really just want to have the accord driveable again. It's been 6-7 years since I have last driven it. With the H22a I could drive it until the f22b is fully built and then pull the H22a, sell it and use the money for something else.

Like I said my biggest fear is I buy the car and 1000 miles later I spin a bearing and now I have 2 project motors laying around no driveable accord.

Decisions.... decisions

[sonikaccord]

Also if/when you pull the spark plugs, try to rock the pistons using a plastic or wooden dowel or a stick. If they move excessively, you may have to pull the oil pan.

[deevergote]

Sluggish crank could be a power issue. I had a similar situation with my car. Replaced the starter and battery, and still cranked sluggishly. Wouldn't start. I could pop-start it, though. Turns out, the battery connections were covered in corrosion. That was it!

I say buy it, and get to work parting it out. Make your money back ASAP, and scrap/sell the shell. Once you're back to where you started money-wise, it won't really matter if the H22 is a dud. You will have wasted time and effort, but that's a fair trade if you end up with an engine that runs well enough.

The low, dirty oil is scary, though. H22's are known to burn a little oil, but a noticably low level may indicate more significant problems. That engine may be damaged internally, and it may have been seriously neglected. H22's don't like neglect.

[Rilas]

I'd say for the price it's still worth it. If nothing else you can rip apart the motor if it is a dud and sell the head alone for a couple hundred dollars. The block might not be worth saving. But parting out everything else will recoupe the money you are into it. Hell if nothing else you'll come out with more money than you spent even if the H22a is a dud.

[Grumpys93]

I messaged them and told them after looking it over I would pay 300 and tow it for them. I just have a lot going on and I wouldn't be able to touch it until May. Honestly the car was in rough shape and makes me think that the engine was neglected as well. If they counter with 400 I would buy it. That can easily be recouped

[Accrdwgnguy]

From you're description sounds like a bad ground. That could be all. There's that main ground strap that connects to the transmission, and it can rot out. But who knows if the engine is any good? From the photos thats the only good thing on that car. And it's possibly junk. IDK if I were you I'd focus on the project engine, keep your eyes on the prize.

Of course if you really want it, and have time to dick with it. Connect your jumper cable to the transmission ground point from the batt -, and try turning it over. If the seller wants you to, that is.

[Grumpys93]

So for all you h22 people out there. Since it has low oil, would the oil pressure sensor cause the engine to turn but not crank? So by simply doing an oil change could that fix it? Or does the oil pressure sensor just put the motor in limp mode?

[Accrdwgnguy]

The oil pressure sender turns on a light on your dash. Thats it.

[Grumpys93]

The oil pressure sender turns on a light on your dash. Thats it.

In the complete parts thread they mentioned VTEC oil pressure sensor. So I didn't know if that had anything to do with it.

[Grumpys93]

So I ended up buying it. Look at my MR thread for updates and full troubleshooting process