How to Bypass Clutch Dampener?

[GTRON]

Hey Dudes,
I'm planning on doing a manual swap soon. I did some research on the clutch dampener on our cars, and from what I caught on, everybody liked the clutch feel better without the dampener.

So when I swap, how do I bypass the dampener? I heard something about a line you install that bypasses it?....
I don't really know how all this clutch stuff works, haha, really new to manual stuff.

[F22Chris]

You follow the hardline and you'll find the damper. It looks like a flattish cylinder with two hydraulic lines in it. People bypass it by taking a steel braided hydraulic hose and connecting the two lines.

[Corweena]

Yup. Literally just run a steel braided line from the CMC to the slave cylinder.

[lbus9168]

you just need this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141168977173?ul_noapp=true

[GTRON]

Just put in a cable! Sweet! haha.
Thanks for the help guys!

[deevergote]

Not a cable. A braided hydraulic line.
Honestly, there's very little difference between having the dampener and not. You rarely improve something by removing parts that Honda's engineers decided to include in the design.

[GTRON]

Not a cable. A braided hydraulic line.
Honestly, there's very little difference between having the dampener and not. You rarely improve something by removing parts that Honda's engineers decided to include in the design.

You're so technical Deever, I like it.
Most guys said it didn't make a huge difference, and there was talk of dampeners that weren't working properly... I just wanna skip it if it's not necessary.

[Rilas]

If nothing else it's a ton easier just to run the braided line than to put all the stock hard lines into the body. Especially if you don't have the engine out of the bay.

[GTRON]

If nothing else it's a ton easier just to run the braided line than to put all the stock hard lines into the body. Especially if you don't have the engine out of the bay.

That's a giant plus. People were like, hard lines are better than flexible, because of rigidity, but I'm not concerned about it haha.

[H311RA151N]

you just need this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141168977173?ul_noapp=true

Not a cable. A braided hydraulic line.
Honestly, there's very little difference between having the dampener and not. You rarely improve something by removing parts that Honda's engineers decided to include in the design.

These two. Both sides of my opinion. Why? It's rather pointless. Just more room for error. Like a leak. And if you did it just use the line lbus linked. I've used it twice during 5 speed swaps. Cable is for the birds and old tech. Not to mention a royal pain for nothing. Nothing glorious about cable clutches. Owned several. Stangs, 3g's etc.

Leave it. Spend time and money elsewhere. Both can be spent much much better elsewhere. My $0.02

[deevergote]

He's not talking about converting to a cable clutch (see what happens when you use the wrong word, GTRON?) He just called the braided hydraulic line a "cable". It'll still be a hydraulic clutch setup. just with a braided steel line running from the master directly to the slave.
A braided line will actually reduce the number of connections by 50%, seeing as it eliminates the clutch damper, with its two connections.


Still, there's little reason to do it, as the clutch damper doesn't frequently fail, and it really doesn't influence performance in a negative way.

[GTRON]

He's not talking about converting to a cable clutch (see what happens when you use the wrong word, GTRON?) He just called the braided hydraulic line a "cable". It'll still be a hydraulic clutch setup. just with a braided steel line running from the master directly to the slave.
A braided line will actually reduce the number of connections by 50%, seeing as it eliminates the clutch damper, with its two connections.


Still, there's little reason to do it, as the clutch damper doesn't frequently fail, and it really doesn't influence performance in a negative way.

Whoopsies, sorry for being confusing, I'm a noob. Haha.

If it doesn't make a big difference either way (damper or no damper), then why not just skip taking those annoying hardlines out, and installing them.

[Corweena]

in my case, my M2B4 trans didn't have them, and the 5-speed parts I got came with a braided line already. So there is that. Plus I'll be doing the S2000 CMC swap too, so might as well knock it all out at once.

[deevergote]

Whoopsies, sorry for being confusing, I'm a noob. Haha.

If it doesn't make a big difference either way (damper or no damper), then why not just skip taking those annoying hardlines out, and installing them.

Ultimately, that was my reasoning for bypassing it in my car. I had some bleeding issues, and I couldn't get pressure in the line (turns out my slave cylinder was holding air...) In an effort to simplify things, I replaced the hardline with a braided line. I left the hardline intact, so it could basically be reattached if I wanted.
Just secure the braided line so it's not flopping around. Too much movement could eventually wear it out near the fittings, causing a leak.

I definitely recommend RyWire for the line. Mine was very well made, and it was at my door just a few days after ordering.

[GTRON]

Ultimately, that was my reasoning for bypassing it in my car. I had some bleeding issues, and I couldn't get pressure in the line (turns out my slave cylinder was holding air...) In an effort to simplify things, I replaced the hardline with a braided line. I left the hardline intact, so it could basically be reattached if I wanted.
Just secure the braided line so it's not flopping around. Too much movement could eventually wear it out near the fittings, causing a leak.

I definitely recommend RyWire for the line. Mine was very well made, and it was at my door just a few days after ordering.

How did you secure yours? Zipties? Haha.

Kinda off topic, but would a Exedy Clutch master and slave be fine? Planning on getting a Exedy clutch and flywheel.