nice one bro! Fellow kiwi here, but living in Perth...
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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New guy from New zealand!
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Thanks guys
Bought the DC2 home from work finally and is back in its garage / home in hibernation for winter.
Picked up the snail / manifold / WG for the DC2's new engine too
Had my IACV adaptor turn up from Rosko racing
Also got a steal on a full exhaust off a CD6 which consisted of Mugen headers, and a Tanabe G medallion rear muffler, Along with a custom shitty midpipe.
The headers will get need to be polished before I use them on the H22A I'm building for the car, But I thought in the meantime I would put the muffler on. Needed slight modification but I've made it so it bolted up to the stock midpipe so if I want to I can change back to the stock rear muffler
As soon as I started it, I knew it was exactly how I wanted it to sound. Subtle, but with a noticable burble, Whilst at cruising speed, Can hardly even tell it is there - Perfect for the daily.
Heres a short video, Don't mind the fact the car is filthy :P
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cwi-NIFnPLs
Thanks for reading!
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Bit of an update now, A friend of mine polished up my muffler for me whilst I did some work on his B20V EJ1, It came up great!
And tonight I went and saw my engine builder and picked up my shortblock Has been acid dipped, honed, new genuine honda rings, new bearings, crank/rods/pistons have all been acid dipped, crank has been polished. Can't wait to get this thing finished!
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Im on the wrong side of the pond but this looks raddd! good choice of cars, btwsold! But here's my build thread for those interested.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864
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Thanks
Bit of an update, just going to copy/paste from my build thread over on nzhondas :P
I took it to work, put it on an engine stand and proceeded to put on all the bits I've had laying around for a while now, oil cooler, water pipe, oil pump, pickup / sump etc.
So the details of the bottom end are:
H22A blacktop closed deck
Acid dipped block, crank, rods, pistons.
Honed
New genuine rings
New big end and main bearings, new thrust washers
All O-rings on the oil pump replaced
New front and rear crank seals
New front balance shaft seal
New sump gasket
Euro R oil pump pickup
Euro R sump
New water pipe O-rings
I went with the Euro R sump over the blacktop sump as its a little larger, maybe 500ml - 1l larger. The extra oil capacity will help with lubrication, oil temps etc.
Did a service on the CB last week, Gave me a chance to have a look to see if it has developed any oil leaks and such, None bar a slight drip from what I assume is the cam seal (Not doing it as H series should be done soon hopefully)
Managed to get a hell of a steal on some BC golds out of a CD accord from strongs last week, So bought them and put them in the CB.
After fiddling around with the ride height for a while I found a happy median. Wheel centers to guards measure in about 325mm front and 330mm rear. puts the jack points on the sills about 115mm off the ground.
Before photos of height for reference!
Picked up my head from being machined, All valve seats have been cut, all valves have been refaced and the head has been refaced too. Ready for me to reasemble with the new valve stem seals, Then can bolt the head onto the block, exciting progress!
After work tonight I reassembled the head, with new genuine valve stem seals, And bolted it back to the block using a new genuine euro r head gasket, and euro r headbolts (multi point vs single hex blacktop bolts). Will reassemble rocker assemblies, install the cams and set valve clearances tomorrow night / on the weekend
Can't wait to get this thing in the CB
Have been looking for wheel options but its quite hard to find a particular set of wheels here, in the spec i want, in 4x114. So am currently looking into doing a 5 stud swap on it, Will open up wheel options alot more to me, get rid of the hub over rotor front end, and look alot sweeter
Was reading info from this thread, looks like it will be quite easy to do
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=15681
Thanks for reading!Last edited by Zombine; 11-12-2015, 04:33 AM.
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Thanks guys!
Not much to add, Valve clearances are done, New thermostat housing o-ring (where it bolts to head) installed, and new front water neck o-ring installed after giving them a good scrub. Getting there
Quick question about using the euro r manifold, If I get the throttle cable adaptor from rosko racing, which throttle cable should i use in my car? still using the auto pedal and cable, Will an auto BB1/4 H22A throttle cable work with the euro r manifold and RR throttle cable adaptor? Don't want to have to change pedal if I can get away with it
Thanks!
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Bit more of an update
After sealing down all the end caps, I installed some new cam seals
Installed a new blox polished cam end plug
Installed the OBD1 H22A distributor with a new o-ring
Modified the Euro R throttle cable bracket so it would suit my stock F22Z throttle cable
And got a new cambelt, tensioner and balance shaft belt
Random photo of it
All parts I use are genuine BTW
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Massive thanks to a local NZHondas member for giving me a set of spark plug leads and a prelude power steering pump and bracket to use! I'll have the last pieces of the puzzle next week, yay!
Found a F23A crank pulley which is identical to my factory pulley, which means I can reuse my AC / Alt belt, And will just need a different P/S belt to suit
Mitchell started polishing my headers while I did some work on one of his cars :P
And bolted the lower half of the manifold on to see how it will fit, They tuck up nice and close to the sump so will give great ground and subframe clearance!
Compared to the stock lower half, its a little bit shorter, so for the meanwhile ill extend the mugen lower half so it matches up with my stock exhaust. early in january I'll get the 2.5" system made
Also got my P91 ecu back from another local NZHondas member who has loaded a basemap onto it so I can run the car in and get it to the dyno for a proper tune once the new exhaust is on
Not long to go now and am getting excited to having this run running in my car!
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Ended up going to pick a part on saturday afternoon, and got the P/S high pressure line off a BA8 prelude.
[img]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1280x1024q90/907/fiM***.jpg[/img]
Also bought my vtec solenoid gasket and bolted that on, Found out the top gasket in the vtec solenoid is missing too so will have a new one here today for that.
The P/S pump before I rebuilt it
All the o-rings and the shaft seal
And after it was cleaned and rebuilt
And thanks to domanib18b / Markus for having an aluminium 10mm EGR blanking plate laser cut
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