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1990 Honda Accord 5 speed vibration

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    1990 Honda Accord 5 speed vibration

    Hello. I'm having my first issue with the latest cb7 I bought. When I first drove it and took it for a test drive I noticed that in first gear accelerating the steering wheel will shake back and fourth all the way from first til like fourth gear around 40-50-70mph the shake is like not even there.

    Could it be something related to the transmission? Would that shake the wheel like that?

    Tire related?

    Please post any ideas of what you think it may be. Thank you in advanced.

    #2
    Sounds like its torque related (not speed related), more torque in lower gears = more vibration.

    May be a loose or worn suspension part. Check your ball joints, wheel bearings, and radius rods for movement. The radius rod in particular can cause wheel instability if its installed incorrectly or has worn bushings.

    Bad CV axles can cause vibration under load, too.
    1992 EX, 306,000 miles - Track toy - M2S4, H23A1, ST rear swaybar, Wagon brakes, GC coil sleeves, KYB AGX dampers, Stoptech pads, Toyo Proxes R1R, 2.25" exhaust



    Stock F22A6
    VIR, 5/22/2016: https://youtu.be/eR5-ylSPsxk

    H23A1 powered
    NCCAR, 9/4/2016: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI5WpxGrEpE
    CMP, 10/16/2016: https://youtu.be/DOqoe5f-GLY

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      #3
      It could also be warped brake rotors. Usually one of the last things people check for shake in the wheel. Usually after they have replaced all of the other suspension components.
      MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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        #4
        So I replaced both outer tie rods because they were extremely worn lol.

        Now the car has the same problem but more prounounced and I think it has something to do with the rim-tires. Starting at 30mph the steering wheel shimmy bad and the faster you go the worse it gets. I checked the rims to see if any were bent and no bent rims but doesn't this sound like a tire issue? Everything in the front end is really tight now. BTW both wheel weights are still on the rim.

        Comment


          #5
          Does it turn left and right quickly? Put the rear tires up front and see what happens, Kev. Left and right vibrations at low speeds are usually tire related. If a rotor has too much lateral runout, it would mainly shake when on the brakes.

          A lady came up to me today talking about the same thing and she needed her tires balanced. I tried balancing the tire like 4 times before I said fuck it. I took it off the wheel, and there was rubber shavings inside the wheel from when she rode on a flat tire. Could be that...

          My scion used to do that too actually, and one day I wasn't paying attention and went over a speed bump at like 30mph. The tire actually broke the bead so I got it replaced under warranty and it stopped the shaking.

          Sorry to babble. I think it's tire related though.

          Comment


            #6
            It's all good Chris thank you for your help.

            What gets me is it seems when I let it out of gear and in neutral the shimmy in the steering wheel stops. That's what I'm confused about if it was the tire wouldn't it continue? I noticed the drivers side axle at the inner joint it seems like you can move it up and down a little? Could that be the issue? The axle is working harder when accelerating vs doing a steady 50 or so. I don't think there should be any play in the axle up and down atleast.

            Yes I actually switched both tires already and I thought it got better but sometimes it's worse then others. I noticed it got better with the new passenger axle because the boot was torn so maybe the drivers needs to be changed too. But I'm going to check a few more things out in between working before I go ahead and replace the axle.
            Last edited by Kev1990; 07-23-2016, 06:56 PM.

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              #7
              So I'm still trying to figure this out.

              I put all four new tires and rim from another car of mine that has no vibrations at all and the vibration-shimmy is still there.

              I saw a post above mine about the intermediate shaft and that's what I'm really turning to and the axle. But in his last post he said ultimately motor mounts fixed his issue. So if anyone has a idea of where I should go from here please post. I'd prefer not to invest crazy amounts of money into the car like a new intermediate shaft unless I absolutely have to.

              I don't have any vibrations or sounds ether as far as I can tell. Just a shimmy in the wheel. Literally the wheel just shimmys back and fourth lol.
              Last edited by Kev1990; 07-24-2016, 07:55 PM.

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                #8
                Check the steering rack, inner tie rod and outer tie rods.

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                  #9
                  oh well in that case look at axles or mounts. Sometimes axles can seize at an angle, so when it turns the wheel is getting pulled in an out on an awkward axis. Also look at the half shaft bearing for play.

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                    #10
                    So far I have checked everything thoroughly except drivers side axle and intermediate shaft. Motor mounts looks good. Engine only moves a very tiny bit when in reverse and has no movement when starting out in 1st.

                    I noticed that when I had the knuckle off yesterday that the axle didn't seem to be sitting properly. When I grab the axle in the middle I can move the whole axle up and down and side to side a little but it has more up and down play then anything. I haven't been able to see if it's the inner CV joint or the intermediate shaft bearing. Most likely I would believe it's the axle even though there's no sounds when turning or accelerating. How hard is it to replace the intermediate shaft bearing? Or is it easier replacing the whole thing? Like in the other thread.

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                      #11
                      So. I found out my driver's side wheel bearing is just starting to fail very little wobble but that's essentially what the steering wheel shimmy is too lol.

                      I do need some help with this question because I've never done it before. Are all auto-manual 90-93 knuckles interchangeable? I have a few parts cars with bearings-rotors and lower ball joints that I know are good and would love to swap them instead of spending the money to press a new bearing onto this hub.

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                        #12
                        Yeah they swap out. Difference is in the axle length. Manuals have that half shaft and autos don't. If you decide to go the new route, get a new wheel hub, and a Honda, Timken, or SKF bearing. Local shops are usually willing to press them on for you for like $10. New rotors aren't a bad idea either.

                        I find getting a new hub & bearing is easier than pulling the old one, cutting the inner race, and pressing a new bearing on.

                        Eric the car guy did a DIY on getting the rotor off the hub too. Search it on the YouTube.
                        Last edited by F22Chris; 08-12-2016, 02:43 PM.

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                          #13
                          Thank you Chris.

                          My local asswipe shops want 80$ just to remove and press a new one in LOL.

                          Originally my intentions were to replace the bearing and the hub but I can't find one for the right price. Where do you normally get your hub and bearing assemblies?

                          Actually SKF is what I always use for bearings never have a problem with them.

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                            #14
                            So here's what's been done and I still have the problem lol.

                            New passenger side axle - boot was ripped

                            Drivers and passengers side outer tie rods replaced - a bit of play

                            New drivers side wheel bearing and rotor

                            New struts in the front

                            Tried taking tires from another car of mine with no vibrations and the car still had the shimmy.

                            Motor mounts seem fine I get little to no engine movement when taking off in 1st or reverse.

                            Had a shop check it out and they couldn't find a thing wrong with it lol.

                            So I still have the problem. Everything seems tight in the front end and the car had this problem when I bought it but I also serviced the trans too and I know the fluid level is full.

                            Would love to figure this out so if anyone has any more ideas please post lol. Could it be the drivers side axle? Everything on it looks in tact though.

                            I honestly drove it a bit more out on some free roam roads with nobody around. The steering wheel shimmy starts out at about 20 mph as a fast shimmy back and fourth motion in the steering wheel then about 40-50 mph the shimmy is still there just less noticeable in the steering wheel. Same for 50-70 and the faster you accelerate 20-40-50 the faster the steering wheel shimmys.

                            If it may be an axle. I have my 90 auto all apart currently the front end. I do believe I've heard before that a passenger side axle for a automatic will fit the drivers or passenger side manual trans? Am I correct? Because I'd prefer to switch it out if possible to test it instead of spending the extra money considering I have my 90 auto already apart on jack stands lol.
                            Last edited by Kev1990; 08-06-2016, 10:50 AM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Was the car ever hit?

                              It still really sounds like a tire or bent wheel problem to me. You ruled it out though so it's odd.

                              You've done the entire front end other than that one axle, so I guess you can try it out.

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