For all those interested in converting from standard filament bulbs to LED bulbs, here's a little info/DIY that might help.
Quick LED facts:
-They illuminate 20% faster than normal filament bulbs. May not seem like much, but at 50+MPH, that could the difference between stopping and wrecking.
-They last longer. Up to 10 years or 10,000 hours.
-They use/require less power.
Bulbs replaced:
-All 4 rear tail/brake light bulbs - RED
-Both rear turn signal bulbs - AMBER
-All 4 front corner bulbs - AMBER
-Both rear license plate bulbs - WHITE
-Both front bumper signal bulbs - AMBER / WHITE
REARS
I bought my bulbs from my local AutoZone:
"Jam Strait" Red 1157 LED $17/pair x 2 = $34 - REARS
"Jam Strait" Amber 194 LED $11/pair x 2 = $22 - CORNERS
MY rears:
C91BLX7 bought his bulbs online from Ebay:
Red 1157 "20LED" bulbs $16/pair x 2 = $32
Amber 1156 "18LED" bulbs $13(shipped) for two bulbs:
White 194 LED bulbs $6 for two bulbs:
My bulbs were the forward facing "cone-type" bulbs.
C91's were the 360° angle.
EQUALIZERS:
Now, with my LED corner bulbs in, i had no problems with hyperblinking. However, when C91 put the LEDs in the rear signals, they hyperblinked, so, he had to put in Load Equalizers. You'll need an equalizer for each bulb.
He got the equalizers at AutoZone for $12.99/pair.
Equalizer in place:
--We discovered that the EQ generates a bit of heat. In the above picture, the EQ is too close to the wires. In the pic below the EQ has been placed differently, further away from all the wires. The wires leading from the EQ have just been taped to the body of the EQ.--
BROWN BOX "BYPASS":
Now onto the next hurdle. The LED bulbs will cause the "Brake Lamp" light on the dash to come on. There's a simple fix for this as well.
CORNERS:
Now, for the front corner bulbs, the old were simply removed, and the new were put in place. As mentioned above, they did not hyperblink.
The license plate bulbs were the same. Just remove the old and insert the new.
BUMPER LIGHTS:
Amber(or white) 1156 LED (x2)
An 1156 bulb should fit just fine and thus, do the trick. This conversion will also require the use of an equalizer on each bulb. Again, you can use the exact same equalizers as used on the rear signals, which you can find at AutoZone for $12.99, for two.
We'll get pics up as they arrive.
This is a matter of removing the front bumper lens and wiring in the equalizer. Remove the light, remove the lens from the socket, wire in your equalizer, put in your new 1156 LED bulb and re-install.
Now for some vids and pics:
C91's LED test(w/o turn signal equalizer):
C91's LED test(after equalizer):
Full Rear-End LED Conversion:
Running lights only(no brakes):
Brakes on:
Thanks to myself(MikeW), C91BLX7 and cp[mike] for all pics and info.
Quick LED facts:
-They illuminate 20% faster than normal filament bulbs. May not seem like much, but at 50+MPH, that could the difference between stopping and wrecking.
-They last longer. Up to 10 years or 10,000 hours.
-They use/require less power.
Bulbs replaced:
-All 4 rear tail/brake light bulbs - RED
-Both rear turn signal bulbs - AMBER
-All 4 front corner bulbs - AMBER
-Both rear license plate bulbs - WHITE
-Both front bumper signal bulbs - AMBER / WHITE
REARS
I bought my bulbs from my local AutoZone:
"Jam Strait" Red 1157 LED $17/pair x 2 = $34 - REARS
"Jam Strait" Amber 194 LED $11/pair x 2 = $22 - CORNERS
MY rears:
C91BLX7 bought his bulbs online from Ebay:
Red 1157 "20LED" bulbs $16/pair x 2 = $32
Amber 1156 "18LED" bulbs $13(shipped) for two bulbs:
White 194 LED bulbs $6 for two bulbs:
My bulbs were the forward facing "cone-type" bulbs.
C91's were the 360° angle.
EQUALIZERS:
Now, with my LED corner bulbs in, i had no problems with hyperblinking. However, when C91 put the LEDs in the rear signals, they hyperblinked, so, he had to put in Load Equalizers. You'll need an equalizer for each bulb.
He got the equalizers at AutoZone for $12.99/pair.
Equalizer in place:
--We discovered that the EQ generates a bit of heat. In the above picture, the EQ is too close to the wires. In the pic below the EQ has been placed differently, further away from all the wires. The wires leading from the EQ have just been taped to the body of the EQ.--
BROWN BOX "BYPASS":
Now onto the next hurdle. The LED bulbs will cause the "Brake Lamp" light on the dash to come on. There's a simple fix for this as well.
Originally posted by cp[mike]
Now, for the front corner bulbs, the old were simply removed, and the new were put in place. As mentioned above, they did not hyperblink.
The license plate bulbs were the same. Just remove the old and insert the new.
BUMPER LIGHTS:
Amber(or white) 1156 LED (x2)
An 1156 bulb should fit just fine and thus, do the trick. This conversion will also require the use of an equalizer on each bulb. Again, you can use the exact same equalizers as used on the rear signals, which you can find at AutoZone for $12.99, for two.
We'll get pics up as they arrive.
This is a matter of removing the front bumper lens and wiring in the equalizer. Remove the light, remove the lens from the socket, wire in your equalizer, put in your new 1156 LED bulb and re-install.
Now for some vids and pics:
C91's LED test(w/o turn signal equalizer):
C91's LED test(after equalizer):
Full Rear-End LED Conversion:
Running lights only(no brakes):
Brakes on:
Thanks to myself(MikeW), C91BLX7 and cp[mike] for all pics and info.
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