Steering alignment, need some help/ideas

[cb7 calling]

While at 250,000 I can almost be certain the intermediate shaft bearing needs replaced. I can almost be certain it will not cause a wobble or shake. I have replaced two obliterated ones that where not the culprit.
Have you had an alignment?
It shouldn't be effected intermittently though if not.
Is the intermittent shake related to temperature?
If so I'm sticking with warped hub.
However my g/f has a cd5 that had a wobble. I was sure it was the cv with a bad boot for the last three years(it stays greased). I saw scrubbing on the driver front tire adjusted the tie rod accordingly and bam smooth. Of course you have new tires but what about alignment?

[bobbycos]

axle might be the easiest and fastest thing to do, then check the steering shaft

[toycar]

Read everyones post and am going to reply in one general post;






Alignment was done recently and has been done twice while the problem has been present. Before and after the inner/outer tie rods and wheel bearings specifically.


The u-joint on the column was toast. Fucking sucked to change too. My fat hands have a helluva time moving around in there. Lol. Feels much better/different and the wobble is now worse. My thought here is that the force of the wobble was in part being absorbed by the worn out u-joint.

Axles really do look ok, but I am going to replace anyways when I get back into town on Thursday. Shouldn't be too bad since I recently took the knuckles off and greased them before I put them back on.



I'm going to look at the intermediate shaft/bearing. What should I be looking for other than obvious carnage and play?







Pulling the power steering belt? What am I looking for with no power steering? Will the symptoms be more obvious, or are we looking to confirm the possible relationship with my wobble to the power steering fluid pressure?


If not, please elaborate.


I am considering going to Honda and having them take a look at it too. I still feel like the steering preload could need to be adjusted. With as much play as I have with the car going straight vs turning, the wobble being irregular, the u-joint being so damaged.

I dunno. If the axles/intermediate shaft and another round of alignment at the shop don't fix it, Im probably going to have to take it to Honda. Im not really sure I want to throw parts at it without knowing whats going on, and that is why I am avoiding the hubs.


If I change the hubs, the bearings will be toast as well. I just replaced these and the hubs for all intents and purposes seemed just fine. I used a press too, so Its not like they were abused in the process.


I dunno. Thanks again for all of the help everyone.

[Stoner51]

Could you elaborate on the steering preload you are talking about?
Is this the 40mm nut and the one inside of that on the rack?

I recently changed my axles due to vibration at highway speeds. I have changed my axles at least 5-6 times and it never went away. Recently I said fuck it and went with DSS level 0 axles and the vibration is essentially gone. I can feel a faint vibration but I'm a little OCD. You seem similar. I was using the new axles from advance. Everytime I tightened the axle nut it would stretch the joint out for lack of better terminology. When I installed the DSS axles I didn't notice this.

My problem has just about convinced me that speed variable vibration is some rotational mass problem. Tires axles or wheel bearings.

One last thing. All of your wheels are round and not bent? I have one spot on one wheel that is not perfectly round. This could also cause some vibration


Steve

[toycar]

Could you elaborate on the steering preload you are talking about?
Is this the 40mm nut and the one inside of that on the rack?

The 40mm nut is the locking mechanism for once the preload has been set. The nut on the inner diameter of that 40mm nut is how you set the preload on the plunger/worm gear that transfers the rotational force from the steering column to the rack. There is a preloaded force on the back side of that gear, and as the gear wears out the preload needs to be adjusted. I think this may be my issue.

The gear basically wears over time. And the torque procedure is something like tighten completely but not over torque, back it out, and then re-torque to like 2.6 in/lbs


Its really specific and if you get it wrong it can damage the steering rack or plunger/worm gear. I am hesitant to fiddle with this and actually this is what has me considering going to Honda. Why not let them be liable? Seems like my afternoon spent changing the rack or gear has got to be worth something. The nut is fairly easy to get to, so its not going to take them very long to adjust it. The replacement parts wouldn't be free.

I dunno, I think I'll pay the pro's to handle that if I cannot resolve this issue otherwise. I do at this point think it is the culprit though. There is 0 play in anything else as far as I could tell. I am going to replace the axles though because I think they are gonna have issues at some point either way so why not rule it out? My parts lady is awesome so Im not too worried about it. If changing the intermediate shaft/bearing and both axles do not help, I am off to Honda I think.

I recently changed my axles due to vibration at highway speeds. I have changed my axles at least 5-6 times and it never went away. Recently I said fuck it and went with DSS level 0 axles and the vibration is essentially gone. I can feel a faint vibration but I'm a little OCD. You seem similar. I was using the new axles from advance. Everytime I tightened the axle nut it would stretch the joint out for lack of better terminology. When I installed the DSS axles I didn't notice this.

Interesting. I wonder if the joints aren't pulled apart or something minor but still tight and I'm just not catching it. I did pull the knuckles off the car not too long ago, and the axles are original. I torqued to spec, but I see the opportunity for error here.

My problem has just about convinced me that speed variable vibration is some rotational mass problem. Tires axles or wheel bearings.

One last thing. All of your wheels are round and not bent? I have one spot on one wheel that is not perfectly round. This could also cause some vibration


Steve

My rims have no visible signs of damage and aren't having any issues getting balanced. I have seen the tire shop too and am in good shape there after replacing.



I am being a bit picky about it. Its all good. I don't think theres anything wrong with being OCD or picky. Just as long as I don't let it define me as a person.


With cars, shit is either right, or it isn't. Not a lot of arguing in that one right?


Lol

[Stoner51]

My wheels "looked" good as well. Balanced fine Still had the vibration. So I took the car in got them to rebalance them. They asked what was wrong and I told them the story. He rebalanced them and noticed the driver side was a little out of round. We moved that wheel to the passenger rear and the vibration lessened some

He didn't notice the spot on the wheel the first time. But when I came back he looked a little closer and found it.

So I feel your pain. I don't like things that just aren't right

Steve

[Losiracer2]

I do have to admit though, in my coupe, I bought a reman'd rack and pinion from NAPA and the car drives way tighter and vibration free than my 90' 4dr does.

I've even gone as far as replacing everything you've mentioned on that car, since its my commuter car and I want it reliable and it's got a slight vibration.

But my 93 Coupe has none on the highway. But it isn't an exact apples to apples comparison though. I've got DSS level 2 axles in it and have autozone remans in my DD.

The vibrations aren't unbearable though and they do go away after 70mph, so I pretty much just drive faster than that. They only present themselves when I go between 60-70. I guess that's the sweet spot for vibration.

[bobbycos]

with cars, it either works of it don't

[EsperHamid]

hub studs teeth where the lug nuts fit ?! mine were eaten, I wonder if I can buy studs alone