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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Rear speaker deck removal and costomization
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I tried doing trunk struts in my accord, no reason other than to be different. It's actually not as easy as you would think. IDK, maybe if I worked at it a lot more I could get it to work. I used Mazda 3 trunk struts. The thing is that trunks using struts have exterior hinges that mount to the trunk gutter, not hinges that go into the trunk like we do (this allows for more packing space in the trunk). The exterior hinges have multiple folding points that allow the pressure to be evenly distributes. When you install struts, or at least when I did, what happens is that they apply constant tension to the hinge causing the deck lid to stick up in the front corners. When you pull the release the deck lid flies up violently. You would have to step down to lower pressure struts.
I was just thinking that if you could find lower pressure struts, you could install those. The thing is, you would have to find struts that were "weak" enough that they wouldn't raise the deck lid on their own, but would hold it up when fully extended. Just like hood struts...no factory hood struts will raise the hood on their own, with all of them you need to physically lift the hood, but they will hold them up.
I'm drinking beer right now...maybe I should have been drinking beer when I was installing the struts... I think I just figured out how to properly do this while typing lol.
If you went to a junkyard and got a set of Mazda 3 trunk hinges, they have the ball sockets on them that struts snap onto. Just grind the backside where they're peened over, and punch them out with a hammer and punch. Then where you install them, drill a hole just big enough to put that in, and weld it in place.Last edited by wherm; 08-11-2011, 07:19 PM.
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Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View PostTo remove the rear deck - Rip it out.
I had very little luck removing it in one piece, you can try, but I doubt your luck after 20+years.
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Always wanted to do this
1 or 2 active 10s with a passive 12 in a sealed box
Front face of the box would be cut to fit the rear deck. Box would be shallow as shit too, maybe 2 cu ft, which at a box that would be at least 3-4' would not be big at all.
Could also use + secure the box as a rear strut brace
Trunk springs are a challenge though
Originally posted by lordojaim with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
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Totally different direction
All of this info is awesome, but I just recently had another and completely different idea. Maybe I could get a couple of opinions on it.
Putting a port from a custom box in the center armrest of the back seat. The arm rest would be folded down at all times, but if the port were to be going directly into the cabin instead of the trunk, it should be louder or at least feel louder?
Anyway, I'd cut out the area behind the center armrest and put the port coming into the cabin and having the box in the trunk. I'd make the box and port detachable for adjustments or upgrades.
I'm thinking this will reduce trunk rattle significantly and increase dB's into the cabin.
I think it's a good idea but idk. I'll try it here in the near future. Take some pics and maybe if it sounds good, I'll make a write up. Till then, let me know if it sound like a good/bad/stupid idea!
THANKS!
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Originally posted by 91LXGOLD View Postquick question what is the easily way of removing the two humps on the rear deck to switch out speakers ?
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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Originally posted by Cyclopy@) View PostAll of this info is awesome, but I just recently had another and completely different idea. Maybe I could get a couple of opinions on it.
Putting a port from a custom box in the center armrest of the back seat. The arm rest would be folded down at all times, but if the port were to be going directly into the cabin instead of the trunk, it should be louder or at least feel louder?
Anyway, I'd cut out the area behind the center armrest and put the port coming into the cabin and having the box in the trunk. I'd make the box and port detachable for adjustments or upgrades.
I'm thinking this will reduce trunk rattle significantly and increase dB's into the cabin.
I think it's a good idea but idk. I'll try it here in the near future. Take some pics and maybe if it sounds good, I'll make a write up. Till then, let me know if it sound like a good/bad/stupid idea!
THANKS!
I think the best thing to do would be to make a shallow box for 2 10s and make one a passive driver... so you'd get the performance of a big ported box from 2 little 10s
Originally posted by lordojaim with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
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Anymore pics of rear decks with a mdf board?This gives me ideas how is it mounted to the metal tho?
Car audio classifieds...
http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...ferrerid=12120
Youtube page http://www.youtube.com/user/blackoutt334?feature=mhee
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Originally posted by Cyclopy@) View PostNevermind, I see why I'm confused.
I'm not just talking about replacing the speakers with 8's...
I'm talking about having my 6x9's where they usually go and putting two 8's in the middle.... so 4 speakers total in the rear deck.
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