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    Automatic Transmission Questions

    I been into the game a while, but this is my first dealings with an automatic transmission.

    So I bought a 92 LX (f22a1) for a daily that wouldn't go in reverse.
    Put a F23 transmission, torque converter and flexplate (package deal) in.
    It is a little hard to get it out of 'P' but with a little jiggling works.

    My issue:
    I was driving at night and hit a red light. Went to take off in D4 and it just revved up. So I went to D3 ad no results. It wanted to move, but slower than normal.
    I proceeded to shift to '2' and was able to shift to D3 but I don't think I ever made it out of D3, since D4 light would just light up upon acceleration.
    Literally if I let go of the gas pedal the light would go away.
    The 'D4' CEL was not illuminated or blinking. Fluid is good.

    I go out to the car this morning and everything is acting fine.

    Is it possible that the shifter mechanism itself is going out?
    Also, I do not have to push the shifter button to go from D4-> D3, is that right?
    I ask because to downshift, everywhere else you gotta push the button in, or is it just like that dor both gears being a "D" gear?

    Any advice is def helpful, thanks gents.
    Last edited by drummersteve7; 06-08-2013, 10:29 AM.
    MadLab Racing
    Southern Maryland



    #2
    Sorry I can't help with most of this. But on my car I can down shift from D4 to D3 without pushing the button so I think that part is normal

    Comment


      #3
      Hey Mr. ECU guy, here is what i have saved under my account:


      Automatic transmission drain and fill:


      First off, you probably haven't changed your transmission fluid.

      Here are the steps to a proper drain and fill for the automatic transmission:

      You will need a 3/8 ratchet, a transmission funnel, a jack and jack stands and 3 bottles of Honda ATF (automatic transmission fluid)

      Loosen the passenger front wheel, jack the car up and remove the passenger wheel.
      On the transmission by the radius rod, there is a square indentation on the transmission.
      That is where the 3/8 ratchet fits into perfectly.
      Loosen that bolt and drain all of the transmission fluid.

      When the fluid runs down to near empty, close up the drain plug, put the wheel back on and torque it to specs when you lower the car back on the ground.

      Now go under the hood and towards the front of the car, by the lower radiator hose, look for the little dipstick that sticks into the transmission.
      Pull that out, and using a transmission funnel, pour in 1 quart of Honda ATF.
      Check under car for leaks, if it leaks, then you forgot to tighten the drain plug. If no leak, proceed.
      Pour the 2nd bottle of Honda ATF into the transmission, then replace the dipstick.

      Now the part where you break your back, lol

      Start the car, let it warm up to normal operating temperature.
      Raise the car so both front wheels are off the ground.
      Sitting inside the driver seat, put the gear into REVERSE and let go of the brakes.
      Allow 30 seconds to pass by.
      After 30 seconds, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a complete stop.
      Put the gear into neutral and let go of brakes.
      Allow 30 seconds to pass by.
      After 30 seconds, put the gear into D4
      Allow it to spin for 30 seconds
      After 30 seconds pass by, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop.
      Put the gear into D3
      Allow the wheel to spin for 30 seconds
      After 30 seconds pass, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop
      Put the gear into 2
      Allow the wheel to spin for 30 seconds
      After 30 seconds pass, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop
      Put the gear into 1
      Allow the wheel to spin for 30 seconds
      After 30 seconds pass, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop

      Now you do the same steps, from 1, then 2, then D3, then D4, then Neutral, then Reverse and finally PARK.

      After you cycle all of the gears with 30 seconds per gear, shut the car off in park, and lower the vehicle back onto the ground.

      Check the transmission dipstick for fluid level to see if it is low or full.
      If it is not full, pour in half a quart, jack up the car and run the gears in the air again until the level is up to the full line.

      Now hit the reputation bar on the left

      <<<<<

      Thats a pretty proper way to drain and fill (without having to put load on transmission)

      I personally did it to my transmission and have been running it for over 4 years now (without a drain and fill) and it has not given me any problems.

      MRT

      Comment


        #4
        well Im glad your so sure of yourself, and no rep awarded.
        especially since its copy and paste.

        but yes, the fluid was drained when I swapped the trannies.

        Turns out the tcu no longer worked.
        That is another investigation...

        but the tcu was shot. probably try to resolder
        MadLab Racing
        Southern Maryland


        Comment


          #5
          It may be possible that you may need to adjust the shift Cable at the shift lever. I would start there.
          The beginning of a new era............................
          165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
          184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

          Comment

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