Best suspension kit

[CB7<3]

It's been awhile guys and I'm not to sure on a couple things does anybody know the best suspension kit to get or what needs to be replaced for your suspension all around? I heard eBay kits are good if you upgrade the bushings it energy but like I said I'm kinda scared had a bad experience with a snapped tie rod driving on the highway one day... Any information helps I need to upgrade my suspension asap

[h22sparkle]

It's been awhile guys and I'm not to sure on a couple things does anybody know the best suspension kit to get or what needs to be replaced for your suspension all around? I heard eBay kits are good if you upgrade the bushings it energy but like I said I'm kinda scared had a bad experience with a snapped tie rod driving on the highway one day... Any information helps I need to upgrade my suspension asap

I'm not sure which is the best but iv'e seen raceland coilover setups go for a good price. I don't have them but I plan on getting them. Theres the basics, ultimos and primos

[CB7<3]

I'm talking like ball joints and control arms race lands I heard are a good bang for your buck

[JL351]

Ive had really good luck with Moog replacement ball joints. I initially had a set of driveworks uca's, and tore through them in 10k. As for the bushings I upgraded, I've used both Prothane and Energy. I can't find any big difference between the 2.

[F22Chris]

Balljoints - Senki 555
Tie rods - OEM
Bushings should be OEM or equivalent unless going poly
Struts - Koni Yellows/Strt depending on goals, Bilstiens, or OEM
Springs - Neuspeed, GC, H&R, or OEM

Racelands are not that great. If you want a good adjustable setup, go with Koni Yellow/Ground Control. Quality suspension is important, and whoever told you eBay kits were good should really stop giving their opinion.

If you can't dish out the cash for OEM; Moog seems decent in reviews. If you get Mevotech ball joints replace the nut. One of our members has had the nuts come off of the joint which could be mad dangerous.

[JL351]

^^ agreed, and x2 on the mevotech nut issue. I should add, I'm about to add Koni strt's to replace my blown front Gabriels. My rear Monroe sensa-trac's are surprisingly awesome.

[CB7<3]

Can someone break don exactly what's needed for suspension rear and front like ball joints lca uca inner putter tie rods??

[Jarrett]

Nothing is needed unless it's worn out. Generally, most of the cars this old are in need of many suspension components because by the time the OEM parts wore out, it was not cost-effective to replace them on such an old car.

If you're wanting us to list each suspension wear item, that's a tall order. In no particular order it's:

shocks and springs
upper shock mounts
rear lower shock mounts
front lower control arm bushings
sway bar end links
sway bar mounting bushings
upper control arm bushings
front upper control arms (integrated ball joints)
rear upper control arms (integrated ball joints)
front lower ball joints
outer tie rod ends
inner tie rod ends
steering rack bushings
rear trailing arms bushings


There are aftermarket versions of most of these, but it will all be a matter of what your eventual goals with the car are.

[CB7<3]

Thank you right now I'm just trying to get the car driving perfect until my job is stable because eventually I wanna lower it and boost it

[deevergote]

Don't ever buy a "kit". All you're doing is paying someone to assemble the parts for you. If the price is low, it's because they are using inferior parts. Buy quality components. Learn what each part is, what it does, and why it is important. OEM is what you want for most things, especially if you're not lowered (and don't intend to be.) If you're lowering, get parts that are appropriate, such as adjustable ball joints or anchor bolts from SPC or Ingalls (those things may not be appropriate for a non-lowered car, however.)
Once you understand the importance of the individual parts, I guarantee you will be scared shitless of anything that may be of inferior quality. When something like a ball joint breaks, you crash. And that stuff won't usually break in your driveway. It'll break when you're hitting a sharp turn a little too fast.

Also, just to address the comment above about Racelands... do not buy that garbage. Save yourself a few hundred bucks and just aim your car straight for a ditch. You'll get the same result as installing Racelands.
If you want to lower your car, buy quality parts from quality manufacturers... companies that actually engineer and manufacture suspension components, rather than simply ordering them from Chinese/Taiwanese knockoff companies. If you're paying less than $1000 to lower your car using new parts, you're most likely doing it wrong.

Once you get to boosting... before you need to ask... you're going to need to install forged internals. The stock block with forged internals can probably hold 300hp, maybe 400hp if it's healthy and not abused. Beyond that, you'll want to sleeve it. I find that anything over 300whp is fairly difficult to use on public roads in a relatively lightweight FWD car anyway. Especially if you retain your open differential.

[StoobyMcDooby]

I'm really surprised that no one has mentioned Moog. Moog in my opinion meets or exceeds OE in almost every way shape and form. It's available from almost all retailers and online; almost all parts are made in the USA, almost all parts carry a lifetime warranty.
Obviously, a company like Moog is going to cater to the OEM replacement crowd, not aftermarket post production modifications. But, things like tie rod ends, ball joints, etc, would be an excellent candidate for Moog replacement parts.
At the dealership I work for, when OEM suspension and steering parts are no longer available for older model vehicles, Moog is always our go to, and in the 5 years I've been there, we have NEVER had a warranty concern or failed part when it comes to Moog.
Good luck!

[deevergote]

Moog apparently changed suppliers a few years back, and their quality went down the tubes. I installed a Moog rear upper control arm on my car a few years ago, and the ball joint boot ripped in 3 months. I NEVER DROVE THE CAR! It was so crappy that it broke just sitting there! Many others have had similar experiences with Moog parts purchased in recent years. Probably why it hasn't been mentioned in this thread. It's no longer a go-to brand. IMO, it's about on par with the cheap eBay junk now.
Mevotech was the new "almost OEM" brand for a while, but complaints are starting to surface about their quality as well.

[masospaghetti]

Moog apparently changed suppliers a few years back, and their quality went down the tubes. ... It's no longer a go-to brand. IMO, it's about on par with the cheap eBay junk now.
.

I think this is a little unfair, I've had one bad Moog part out of all the years I've used them. They are clearly superior to the low-bidder eBay crap. Most of their stuff is still made in the USA.

For suspension they are still the best overall choice in the aftermarket. Beck/Arnley is also a fairly reliable source for decent parts.

[deevergote]

I didn't believe all the negative comments about Moog myself, until I experienced it firsthand. They may be better than the cheapest junk, but I definitely believe their quality has suffered considerably.

[Jarrett]

For suspension they are still the best overall choice in the aftermarket.

Even at the top of their quality, they weren't. It's just what has been available here. Lemforder (German) and Disa (Turkish) are actual OEM suppliers who both supply VERY high quality parts. The trick is whether or not they make parts for your car.

The problem these days with Moog is that you can order two of the same part from them and get one that's made in Taiwan and another that's made in the US. Sure, the parts they have that are made in the US are great. But if I don't know that I'm getting a US-made part, and your decision as to whether or not to supply me with one is based on convenience with your supply chain, then I'm likely going to shop elsewhere.


http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=97594

http://www.feoa.net/threads/warning-...g-parts.69943/