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Jarrett : 1993 Accord EX (2)

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    Alright, I got my knuckles and front LCAs back from the powder coater today. I decided to go ahead and put the spindle shafts and bushings in place just to not have them sitting loose.

    Here's some picture vomit of the process and reassembly.


    Even when new, these parts weren't super attractive. Now that hundreds of thousands of miles of dirt, grease and road grime have accumulated on them, they're even less so.




    The powder coated acid dipped them to remove most of the coating, first,then he sandblasted them to a uniform finish. Even after both of those processes, the TL front knuckles still looked pretty bad. The came off of a junkyard car and I just let them sit for years. No clue why they got so bad. More on how bad they were in a bit.




    Everything was taped off before coating. I didn't think to tell him that he could powder coat over things like the front ABS sensor boss or the rear ball joint cover area. He just saw areas where something would need to mount to, and masked them off. I forgot to tell him I was no longer using those provisions.








    Getting sprayed and baked.








    The finished product!










    Here's more on the TL front knuckles. The wheel bearing presses in from the front here until it bottoms out on a lip in back. At that point, a large snap ring goes on top which holds it in place. The snap ring had rusted so badly that it had fused with the iron of the knuckle and not allowed it to come out. No combination of penetrating oil, heat or snap ring pliers would cause it to even budge. So I reluctantly cut grooves into the knuckle just deep enough to separate the snap ring into multiple pieces so that I could chisel them out. Luckily, I didn't cause any damage that would prevent the bearing from sliding in, And the new snap rings will still install just fine. The flange from the hub will cover up my ogre-quality repair.




    Now to get the rear spindle shafts and bushings reinstalled. As many on here have done, I've used the bushings intended for the front upper control arm anchor bolts for the rear lower shock mounts. The CD5 knuckles on the car right now have Hardrace bearings installed. I'm not about that life (anymore), as the youth say.












    Picture credit goes to my lovely fiancee who is always eager to help just as an excuse to hang out in the garage with me!
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      Those came out looking really good.:tu
      My 90 coupe Mr thread....
      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=178452

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        I’ll second that. Those are very nice. Good color too.
        5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

        ~Mark~

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          Got the front knuckles buttoned up now that my new NSK bearings came in the mail today.

















          There are these thin stainless steel tangs that slide over the caliper mounting ears on the Brembo-equipped knuckles to prevent galvanic corrosion between the aluminum caliper and the iron knuckle. The ones that came with these and my spare knuckles have seen better days and they're $0.83/each from Acura. So I'll order a couple of those and the caliper set screws to be completely done with these. Oh and I need to replace a ball joint boot. It was torn on installation. Brand new, zero mile, genuine Honda part. Woops.


          Last night I finally sold our RHD Legacy that was in the garage. So this weekend I'll head up to Bryan where the car is and start getting it ready to roll so that I can trailer it down here. I haven't had the car with me since March of 2015! I'm so excited! I won't be getting it this weekend, it will just be for prep, but it's still a huge milestone to have the Subaru out of the way.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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            Damn that’s nice. And getting the car soon. Even better. So now we have to think about the box-O-options in my garage. I got the Haynes manual for the pilot/MDX and while it doesn’t have the diagram I really need, it does have the wiring diagram for the ‘07 MDX combo switch. It looks like as long as I can isolate the functions and their wires, I can swing even that new of a mod. I’ll study it more. Hit me up bro. Can’t wait to see the car finally home.
            5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

            ~Mark~

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              Yeah, I'm pretty excited to be getting so close to having the car back! Though it did pain me a bit to take my brand new, shiny suspension bits up there to put on the car to get it rolling. Of course it's eventually going to get dirty and gross from road use, but I was hoping for some pretty pictures before that happened.

              The plan is to get the car back here to Houston not this weekend, but the coming one. Once it's here, I'll lift it up and pull all four wheels back off and remove all the suspension from it. There are still things I need to powder coat like the rear trailing arms, rear crossmember, shock forks and front upper control arms, and I'd prefer not to buy them again. So I'll just wait until the car is here and immobilize it for a while. It's used to a life on jack stands at this point.
              My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

              Comment


                I hit a pretty decent-sized snag in getting the car down here with me in Houston when I had planned. Nothing is wrong with the Accord, but I had other car problems that took up both my time and the garage space. Story time, in case anyone cares to know.

                One of my other cars is my CLS6. Sometime around May of 2017 a bolt that holds the alternator to the block just sheared off. I had just bought my new truck for personal use, and was daily-driving my work truck, so I didn't bother much with it and just let it sit.

                I ended up towing it down to Tomball from Denton and proceeded to let it sit for a few more months until I finally made a winter project out of it. I pulled the engine, removed the broken bolt by slotting it with an angle grinder (some superficial damage to the block as well), put a new one in and put it all back together. Again, I had no rush to get it completely done, so I didn't 100% finish until July when my dad needed to borrow a car. It was running like a dream when I gave it to him.

                I know I keep spouting off all of the Texas cities like you all know where they all are, but look at a map if you care enough. My Dad lives in Tyler, where he took the CL. He drove it for about a month and THE BOLT SHEARED OFF AGAIN!!! I couldn't believe it! I used a new from Honda OEM bolt when I put it all back together. I torqued it to spec and tensioned the new belt to within the appropriate range. I am at a total loss as to how this could have happened.

                He, being 200 miles away from me, took it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The mechanic tried to use a right-angle drill to get it out, but was unable to get it to budge.



                They were drilling NEXT to the bolt instead of along its centerline...





                So of course, it wasn't going to budge when they put an extractor in there.


                Of course, I didn't know all of this until I got the car trailered back down here to Houston and pulled the engine. So now I'm left with a predicament. I can sell the car complete for parts. This will net maybe $1000 from someone who really only wants a transmission. Or, I can go get a $300 J35A3 from the junkyard if I can find one with decent compression, do the swap and get it back on the road. At which point I can sell it for maybe $2000. The car has the dreaded Honda clear coat fade, and a couple of decent dents in the doors where the fenders on the car-hauler hit it. My last option would be to get my spare J35A3 short block, rebuild it with new rings and bearings, the pistons from the J32A2, and buy all new seals. Then I'd have a high-compression J35A3 with the J32A2 cams. That would run me another $300 in parts for those. Honda is proud of their bearings and rings. At that point, I'd sell it for nearly the same $2000.

                I appreciate anyone who has read this far. I'm really just venting because my garage is taken up with an immobile project that I didn't ask for, which requires me to spend money on it that I don't want to, only to not have an ideal end result with any scenario.

                What would you do? I'm leaning toward the last option just to get the block out of my way, too.
                My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                Comment


                  Keep the motor. Part the car. In that case I need some of the wiring and plugs lol. I’m sorry bro I’m no help.
                  5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

                  ~Mark~

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                    I have no shortage of J-series engines. I have the even higher compression J35A3 I built for the CB, as well as a newer J35Z3 shortblock, and 3 6-speeds. An extra engine is just something else I'd have to make space for.
                    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                      I vote last option. No point in pulling a junkyard motor that you know nothing about and hope it works out. Especially if it could cost you more then rebuilding the motor. I would also go as cheap as possible on doing the rebuild if you plan to sell it. i.e not getting honda bearings and pistons and go with eBay
                      ~Nick~
                      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                      MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                        Beyond. Stoked. Right. Now.

                        It's not completely done, but it's been over a year's wait. Ascension Motorsports is transitioning over to work exclusively on race cars, so this is one of the last two or three that he's doing for average Joe consumer. I'll take it. Still need to firm up some chassis integration, but I'll talk to him about that stuff later.

                        Here it is:
















                        This will allow my J35A3 (with CL-S6 crank and cam sensors) to interface with the AEM Infinity 6 and integrate the flex fuel sensor and VSS for the EHPS. It's also wired for my electronic boost controller, but that won't be part of the initial plans. Just want to get it running, first.
                        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                          Damn. When even wiring harnesses can look that pretty, it really annoys me how dirty an engine bay gets from just driving around.

                          Accord Aero-R

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                            That’s a nice looking harness!
                            ~Nick~
                            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                            Comment


                              That harness is sweet. It would take me a year to build that too! Lol
                              5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

                              ~Mark~

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                                So anything new?
                                ~Nick~
                                FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                                MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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