How freely should rear wheels spin when jacked up?
So I'm just trying to figure out why my car gets such horrible gas mileage other than the valve cover and tube seal leaks. When I jack my car up in the air without the e brake on and I spin the rear wheel I can hear a faint rubbing noise on the same spot like it's warped. it doesn't spin freely but it also isn't incredibly bad. I'm wondering if that's normal. My car is an LX so it is equipped with drum rear brakes. The four-wheel disk swap is coming in the future.
-
-
Sounds about right, if it soun freely it would mean that adjustment was necessary so the shoes would apply correct pressure to stop vehicle and most importantly e brake.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z] -
So they shouldn't spin freely.. Huh...i figured they would. I feel like a lit of my questions are things i should know...oh well.. Thank you for the help.Originally posted by Crankshaft View PostComment
-
Definitely make sure your ebrake cable is properly adjusted. If the brake is pulled while you're doing this and the wheel spins, your brakes are either done or in dire need of adjustment.
Chances are your rear drums are absolutely ancient anyway, so this might actually be a really good time to change them. Or swap to rear discs, which is a popular upgrade... though it requires a little work to do it right.
Comment
-
Yeah my e brake wasn't on. And the drums actually look fairly new and the shoes still have half life left. I am going to do the rear disc brake swap sometime in the future. I am more worried about my suspension right now I just ordered a Megan front upper strut bar I'm hoping that helps with the body rollOriginally posted by deevergote View PostComment
-
I'm not sure the bar will help much with body roll, but it does tighten up the front end a bit. I noticed a difference when I installed mine. Megan is known as a knockoff company (their strut bar is a direct copy of the DC Sports design). However, their front upper strut bar is one of the few things they make that I'd actually recommend. It works as well as a more expensive brand, and costs a good deal less.
For a more significant difference, the Neuspeed 4 point bar is one of the best you can get (as long as you don't have a DOHC engine swap... they don't fit then.)
ESP (explicit speed performance), who is an active vendor on this site, also makes some amazing chassis braces for the CB7. They're not cheap, but for the level of craftsmanship you get the price is incredibly reasonable. They could charge more for their products, but they know their market, and they know we're on a budget... so they take care of us. Check their stuff out at www.explicitspeedperformance.net, or in their Member Shop here on the forum.
Comment
-
Sounds like you have rear drums too (not rotors). Your question about rubbing at a certain spot is most likely due to a warped rear drum. Happens over time and from heat / old age. Could be other things too.Comment
-
If you don't feel pulsing when you hit the brakes, then they're probably isn't enough warping to worry about - I'm still running the original drums on Ruby at 354k. Having just a little drag is not unusual. Does your ebrake work? Are the wheels good and tight when the brake is applied? Check both wheels. Check how freely the fronts turn as well. How good is your alignment - bad alignment creates excess drag at the tires.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner ForumsComment
-
I know for certain i need an alignment. I haven't had one since lowering. I'm just hesitant on doing it till i get my new shocks. Going with ground control sleeves on stock shocks was a horrible idea.Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostComment
Comment