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Old 11-12-2014, 01:25 PM   #101
H311RA151N
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LOL @ the rear bumper, I was actually going to suggest the front bumper until I read that!

Screw working in the cold, we are in single digits to low 20s here right now. Snow is on the ground. Brrrr.
Good thinkin'!

You guys are super cold up there. The low 20's is about as cold as I can stand. It's definitely not pleasant but I can do it.
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Old 11-12-2014, 02:16 PM   #102
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Dorman coolant overflow reservoir came in today. A little smaller than I wanted but it will work just fine.


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Old 11-13-2014, 05:38 PM   #103
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First things first... I built a fire in my outside wood stove as it was about 30* today.




I went and got a Wix fuel filter.



There is no longer one piece of old fuel hose on this truck. Thank fuck. The old hose was soft and I'm surprised it hadn't caught on fire long ago.



Outlets to the new heater core.



Heater hoses ran.






It's coming together. Slowly but surely.



I was never a big fan of the Bullnose body style. But it's really growing on me.

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Old 11-13-2014, 06:52 PM   #104
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Gotta figure out exactly where I wanna put the coolant overflow reservoir tomorrow. I would like to buy another one and run two eventually being as they are so small. That's the largest universal I could find without a windshield washer reservoir built in.

I'm also going to bolt the battery box in and start running the battery cables and starter solenoid. Which is greatly needed as the current rigging job someone did on it sucks and just plain doesn't work right.

The battery cables are not going to be crimped, they will be soldered into the connectors.

On Saturday the brass float is supposed to be in and then the fuel pump and tank will being going back in. I'll be glad to be done with that mess.


Whats next:



BRAKES:

Dorman Front Brake Hoses
Dorman Rear Center Brake Hose
Wagner Thermo Quiet Brake Pads
Motorcraft Rear Brake Shoes
Dorman Rear Wheel Cylinders
Dorman Rear Drum Brake Hardware Kit

ELECTRICAL & LIGHTING:

Motorcraft Ignition Lock Cylinder & Key
A1 Carodone Wiper Motor
Standard Wiper Switch
Standard Headlight Dimmer Switch
Standard Headlight Dimmer Relay
Standard Turn Signal Switch
Standard Headlight Switch
Replacement Front Turn Signal Bulb Sockets
Dorman Rear License Plate Light
Front Turn Signals
Side Marker Bulb Sockets
Brake Light Sockets


HVAC:

Motorcraft Blower Control Switch
Standard Motor Products Blower Motor Resistor
Four Seasons Blower Motor
Four Seasons HVAC Blower Motor Wheel
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:56 AM   #105
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Brass float came in and it works.



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Old 11-18-2014, 07:07 AM   #106
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What material do you plan to use as anti squeak between tank straps and tank?
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Old 11-18-2014, 07:25 AM   #107
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What material do you plan to use as anti squeak between tank straps and tank?
I haven't thought about it yet. I'm glad you brought it up. Last person used denim jeans cut into strips.

What would you use?
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Old 11-18-2014, 06:16 PM   #108
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I ordered GM Parts tank anti-squeak strips from LMC Truck because they were the only place I could find it. It reminds me of tar paper that is used on roofing but not as sticky. I took a picture of it and I'll try and upload it.
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Old 11-18-2014, 07:08 PM   #109
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I ordered GM Parts tank anti-squeak strips from LMC Truck because they were the only place I could find it. It reminds me of tar paper that is used on roofing but not as sticky. I took a picture of it and I'll try and upload it.
Sounds like a good product. Yeah, when you get time I'd like to see it if you can.
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:27 PM   #110
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neoprene rubber strip (tape) might find some in the roofing supply area locally
or online, I dont know how wide or long your bands are.. heres an example

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubber-Neopr...item58b63bf352

they have all sorts of dimensions..or if you know someone with some scrap EPDM rubber roofing, that shit would work well.

Perhaps even some blackjack (plastic roof patch) coated on the straps before installation, would make a good rust barrier...whatevers cheapest wins in my book lmao.

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Old 11-18-2014, 08:36 PM   #111
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neoprene rubber strip (tape) might find some in the roofing supply area locally
or online, I dont know how wide or long your bands are.. heres an example

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubber-Neopr...item58b63bf352

they have all sorts of dimensions..or if you know someone with some scrap EPDM rubber roofing, that shit would work well.

Perhaps even some blackjack (plastic roof patch) coated on the straps before installation, would make a good rust barrier...whatevers cheapest wins in my book lmao.

I will look into that stuff. I have to go get new bolts for the straps tomorrow at Lowes so I will see what they have along these lines.
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:36 PM   #112
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Brass float came in and it works.







i already know all the info you blacked out
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Old 11-19-2014, 12:46 AM   #113
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i already know all the info you blacked out
Yes you do! I don't really care if people know. I just want to make it harder for someone to find out and to not put it out there on front street.

I guess the worst thing someone could do is have me swatted. But if anyone knows me very well they know that that would result in my death and the death of at least the first officer that busted through my door. So if someone hates me enough to have me and another innocent person(s) killed then be my guest.
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Old 11-19-2014, 07:06 AM   #114
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Why goop it or buy the wrong thing? The right part is $5... I attached a screen shot of the part number and cost from LMC. (Item 18 in the diagram)

I have received a few hard to find OEM items from LMC Truck and have been happy with their shipping too. They have always sent me genuine parts with GM stickers, I don't see why they wouldn't send you genuine Ford parts. They also have that brass float you were looking for in stock (item 10 for $5.95).

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=57 <- link to the location for your goodies.

The photo was corrupted that I took, but the material is made for the job and the environment. I personally wouldn't substitute.

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Old 11-19-2014, 01:59 PM   #115
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Why goop it or buy the wrong thing? The right part is $5... I attached a screen shot of the part number and cost from LMC. (Item 18 in the diagram)

I have received a few hard to find OEM items from LMC Truck and have been happy with their shipping too. They have always sent me genuine parts with GM stickers, I don't see why they wouldn't send you genuine Ford parts. They also have that brass float you were looking for in stock (item 10 for $5.95).

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=57 <- link to the location for your goodies.

The photo was corrupted that I took, but the material is made for the job and the environment. I personally wouldn't substitute.
If I thought LMC would send me quality parts or the right parts I would possibly buy from them. It seems every Ford guy I run across (which is quite a few now) has had one or two orders from them and will never use them again.

On the pump I talked with a guy on FTE that was in the same predicament as I was a couple years ago. LMC sent him an E350 pump when he ordered the pump for his 85 F250 and swore up and down it was the right pump even though it looked nothing like their own illustration.

I would have liked to have known that they had that brass float. I'm sure (hopefully anyways) they wouldn't mess that up.

I went to my neighbor who done a frame off restoration on his '76 F100 (who is ironically also on FTE) and he had the proper material for the straps.
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Old 11-19-2014, 02:09 PM   #116
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The tank is in. The fuel level gauge works. And it runs off fuel in the tank. I'm so glad this part is done with.

From a bone dry tank: 5 gallons of fuel gauge pegged at empty but will run off fuel in the tank. 10 gallons of fuel gauge comes off pegged empty and moves to the "E" or empty line. 15 gallons of fuel the gauge moves to 3/4 of a tank. 20 gallons and the gauge reads full. So actually it reads empty at 1/4 of a tank or there about. Being a 7.5l 460 I guess it safer that way.

So glad to see this...

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Old 11-21-2014, 06:32 AM   #117
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Super pissed this morning. I put ATF in the transfer case and gear oil in the transmission and fired it up. A few minutes later I noticed my damn fuel gauge reads empty...

After all the hell I had with the rear tank I'm like fuck that POS. I assume the new float had a pin hole in it. Going to wait until I cool off before I talk to the seller to resolve the issue.

So, the front tank has (or had) a hole in it. So I took some sand paper to the visible hole in the front tank (which I now think may have been deliberately done by the previous owner) and clean up the area real well, took a dime and some liquid steel and patched it. I let it cure while I went to the gas station to get two 5 gallon gas cans filled to test the tank and pump.

The front tank doesn't leak with the hole fixed. That's good. But the level sensor doesn't work and neither does the pump. How I know is because I flipped the switch for the front tank and the engine ran out of fuel. So my fuel selector valve works. That's good...

But now I'm going to knock a hole in the tank, drain the fuel, pull the tank and replace the pump assembly with one a guy from FTE is bringing me in just a little bit.

What a pain the the ass...

I know knocking a hole in the tank isn't the best idea but the way the metal fuel hose piece is you cannot get a siphon down in the tank.

I got the idea of using a dime and liquid steel from a hole that had been patched in the rear tank I found. It works.

Yeah, I stayed up all night but it's because it was 40* F all night and going to be warm today too. So to hell with sleep, who needs it.
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:56 PM   #118
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I'm so tired I can barely think straight so lets see if I can get this right.

I got the fuel pump assembly for the front tank from a dude I met on FTE.

I removed the front tank to install the fuel pump assembly I received today.

Upon removal I found the top of the tank to be rusted badly as can be seen but still usable.

I got the fuel pump assembly in, and the fuel tank in.

The results:

The front tank will read the fuel level but not pump fuel to the carburetor.

The rear tank initially would just supply the fuel without giving a fuel reading.

But upon driving around the field a bit it appears to have started working. Although, it stays at the same level for both tanks... which is odd or it could be a coincidence.

What all this points to is the need a new tank selector valve. No big deal.

So what this means is I will have both tanks working and the gauge will work for both as well. Looks like I'm ending up with more than I desired! I'm not going to complain.

Here are the pics.














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Old 11-22-2014, 06:45 PM   #119
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So I got the tanks working.

I know they are working correcting because it burns 1/8 of a tank as shown on the gauge idling for half an hour. I used that time to fine tune my ignition timing and tweak with the carb a little.



I also found out this bad ass feature. I have a light to check the bed of the truck and also to help me see when backing up. Just twist the headlight knob all the way counter clockwise until you hear a click.



^^^ I really need a new tailgate...
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:52 AM   #120
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BRAKES

Since I replaced the master cylinder and brake booster I have not had brakes because I did not bleed it afterward. Which I did purposefully, no biggie. I still drive it around the field to test the fuel tanks and such as it's easy to stop with the granny low and park brake.

I done some reading and these trucks came with 2 different rear brake set ups.

8500 and under GVWR are 2.5" rear drums/shoes. 8500 and over are 3" rear shoes. And, according to my door tag, I have the heavy duty F-250.



So today I'm going to go buy the following and get started:

Front Brake Hoses
Rear Brake Hose
Front Brake Pads
Rear Brake Shoes
Rear Wheel Cylinders
Rear Brake Hardware Kit

NAPA opens at 9:00 and Auto Zone opens at 8:00. So I'll be headed that way shortly.
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