F23 a1 swap into CB7

[joekt]

it also may be a different way of counting. the guy who was helping me with the wiring called me a dumbass as soon as i brought up a11, and swaped those two just to prove a point, the car did not start.

he mentioned that quite often what he reads online is the same in principle as what he is doing but he counts out the pins differently, he is a 15 year honda tech so i tend to trust what he says having anything to do with honda. so he just pulled out his 94 accord ETM (electric troubleshooting manual) found the egr pin,(a16 in that particular book, he showed me) switched those two and it runs great. in fact better than it ever has.

i was not and still am not trying to discredit you in any way, i would not have even thought to check that if i had not read your post. and i do thank you for your information, just different ways of doing things is all.




edit* i have been looking around for a little bit now and i cannot find anything to backup what i am saying. so i will ask him next time i see him but until then disregard what i said, i have no idea how he is coming up with these numbers even though i saw it myself on the computer screen,

if it weren't for my horse i woulnt have spent that year in college

[FNEG]

http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/wiring.obd1.htm

i know what happened he counted left to right top to bottom which will be a6 and a16 but to everyone else on the interweb it is a6 and a11 either way it is right and it is good that your car is running better than ever

[TOL]

I have this swap, I just use ECU and harness F23a
just rewire it to CB harness inside car
connect fuel pump (main relay), tachometer, +12, ground,
+12 to 4-wire distributor, to starter
And whats all (what I remember)


and final^

[deevergote]

All that rewiring sounds like a nightmare for such minimal gains!

[Jarrett]

Seriously. I can't think of one single reason why I would ever do this swap using the OBD2 harness. The F22A distributor will bolt up, the injector issue is fixable by eliminating the resistor box, and VTEC wires can be added. Then your cabin doesn't look like a disorganized rat's nest.

[toycar]

Congrats on completing the wiring.


In America we are lazy bastards and think wiring is hard. Lol. I'm sure you didn't complete all of this work to leave that mess behind. I would be surprised if it wasn't already wrapped up.

***Edit***
Maybe he is leaving the mess behind, who knows. Its says "final" so, who knows.

for getting the job done and have an understanding of the mechanics/electrical in a fashion that you could actually accomplish that.

Welcome to the forum

[g7kobayashi]

I would say it's not worth it to put a F23A on a CB.
I have the JDM F23A which is 160hp on my CB, almost complete system.
The F23A didn't come with manual ECU in Japan so I have
the auto ECU from RA3(ODESSEY) to run it.
I tried the manual ECU of both ACCORD and CL but had no lucky...
Going for tiptronic manual or auto would be much easier.
It's faster than the F22B but costs much more than the H22A swap.

[Mishakol129]

That looks good. Musta been a pain the neck tho. So much easier to just swap the heads I heard.
How'd you get the exhaust mani on, did you have to cut teh crossmember? GL getting an ecu that can run Vtec and the knock sensor. Sounds like more trouble than its worth. But hey, i've driven an F23 powered 6th gen before and it had beefier pickup than the F22a. Its a considerably stouter engine. I'd consider it like an F22b dohc maybe even more powerful than that.

[deevergote]

Stouter? How so?

[Jarrett]

Well the center-to-center length between the camshaft and crankshaft are a few mm longer because of the taller F23A head. This is to allow the SOHC head to accommodate all of the VTEC hardware. Same thing with the F22B1/B2. The F22B2 more so because of the revised internal dimensions caused by the added coolant passages. So in the sense that it's slightly taller by a few mm, it's more stout.

[jdm92_accorn]

the main caps are larger, the girdle is larger, the block is actually a high pressure casting vs low pressure casting of the f22, the internals are designed lighter and stronger, it has a factory windage tray and is has more displacement to boot. that seems reason enough to call it more stout. wiring one up for obd1 use with a manual trans is more simple than you would think. a $35 iacv adapter and you can reuse your f22a harness for the most part. vtec is easy aswell, run a chipped p28 ecu and depin and repin the egr wire (its the 6th pin over from left to right on connector b (the middle plug)) to the vtec output (the third one over on the bottom row from left to right on connector d which is the 2nd largest plug) and hook the egr wire under the hood to the vtec solenoid, this is cleaner and saves time wiring wise and the egr is useless anyways with the p28 ecu. then while the engine is out you can pop off the intake manifold and tap and plug the egr port on the head which will lower iat's while stopping it from dumping contaminated air back into the engine. i do this with obd2 h22 swaps all the time, works like a charm. the f23 with a mild port job, a cam and bolt-ons really isnt that bad. believe it or not most of the time it runs just as good as a usdm h22.

[HenRoc]

In Russia, lots of wiring means it works fine.

I'd really like to score an Ascot front end though.

[Mishakol129]

the main caps are larger, the girdle is larger, the block is actually a high pressure casting vs low pressure casting of the f22, the internals are designed lighter and stronger, it has a factory windage tray and is has more displacement to boot. that seems reason enough to call it more stout. wiring one up for obd1 use with a manual trans is more simple than you would think. a $35 iacv adapter and you can reuse your f22a harness for the most part. vtec is easy aswell, run a chipped p28 ecu and depin and repin the egr wire (its the 6th pin over from left to right on connector b (the middle plug)) to the vtec output (the third one over on the bottom row from left to right on connector d which is the 2nd largest plug) and hook the egr wire under the hood to the vtec solenoid, this is cleaner and saves time wiring wise and the egr is useless anyways with the p28 ecu. then while the engine is out you can pop off the intake manifold and tap and plug the egr port on the head which will lower iat's while stopping it from dumping contaminated air back into the engine. i do this with obd2 h22 swaps all the time, works like a charm. the f23 with a mild port job, a cam and bolt-ons really isnt that bad. believe it or not most of the time it runs just as good as a usdm h22.

I've seen the dynos on F23's... Not as imporessive as your F23 block F22 head build. Most I saw was AFAccord - 176.1whp/170.1wtq. Here is the link:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2475653

I think they put about the same if not more work into theirs than you did. The fact that the HP and TQ is about the same is cool though.

The guy milled his head 0.040". Very surprising how he didn't make more power than you did. Only reason I can think of why he didn't make more power than you is the secret weapon, the Bisimoto header that you have. If he had it he probably would have had about the same power, Idk.

[jdm92_accorn]

176whp is pretty average for a usdm h22 with bolt-ons, however 170wtq is not, 130-135 maybe. as far as im concerned that puts the f23a up one on the h22.

[honda2014]

I have this swap, I just use ECU and harness F23a
just rewire it to CB harness inside car
connect fuel pump (main relay), tachometer, +12, ground,
+12 to 4-wire distributor, to starter
And whats all (what I remember)


and final^

That looks horrible.. All those loose wires scare me..