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Old 05-14-2014, 04:16 PM   #1
nktidwel
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Only running on 2 cylinders.. Help!

Fist off its a 93 accord coupe. F22A1 with a 5 speed. When I bought it, it was known that it had a leaky iintake gasket. Car came with a bunch of parts from a donor. Anyway.. I relaxed the gasket, and swapped the manifold to one that appeared to be iin better shape and gave it a full tune up and replaced the dizzy. Took some time as I had been working 60hrs a week and Massachusetts winter was still here. First problem I noticed was sticky Exhaust valves. Im guessing by looking at the oil that maybe some flushes with some marvel mystery oil will free them up. Gave it a look today and its still running rough. Pulled the #4 wire on a hunch that it wasn't firing. No change... I figured for the heck of it to pull #1 in addition... Guess what? No change. My plan is to clean the injectors and go from there and donthe first flush. What do yall think?
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Old 05-14-2014, 05:24 PM   #2
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Hi,

The first thing I would do it to do a vacuum leak test by warming up the car and spraying carb cleaner around the manifold to see if the idle rises.. If it rises then you have a manifold leak and that could be causing part of your problems and needs to be addressed first.

Unless you have already done a compression test on all 4 cylinders already, this should be done just to make sure that your valves are closing all the way on the compression stroke. Check the internet for the compression level needed. there shouldn't be a big difference in the 4 readings they should all be similar. If one is way lower than the others, then you have some new problems to deal with and another post to put on here.

If you have good compression then go after the spark side of the equation first.

First off, make sure you have known good plugs that are properly gapped.. Do not assume that they are gapped correctly out of the box. The gap for NGK plugs is .044 I believe. I would just replace them if you haven't already.

When you remove the old plugs, notice if #1 and #4 are wet with fuel. If they are shiny with fuel, then your injectors are probably working properly and you are having a problem with spark somewhere. if they are dry, then it is obviously a fuel supply issue. but check the spark anyway because you never know.. see testing for spark below..

Test the spark for each cylinder by taking the plug out of the head and putting it back into the plug wire cap and hold the plug against a good ground or engine case or the block somewhere to see if there is even a spark coming out? Do this for all 4 cylinders just to make sure.

If there is no spark even after you replaced the plugs then its either your wires or your distributor that is the problem. Change the wires and test again. If still no spark on 1 and 4 then check and or replace your cap and rotor. Test again.. If still no spark then something in your distributor or your distributor needs to be replaced. if there is spark then go after the fuel angle like you said you were going to do.

Let us know what happens...

Just my 2 cents from my experience.... and just suggestions..

Thanks,

Mac
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nktidwel View Post
First problem I noticed was sticky Exhaust valves.
Theres your problem.

Do a compression test, and cylinder leak down. Then fix those valves.
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Old 05-21-2014, 09:32 AM   #4
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Sorry been busy.... Had spark on all plugs are ok, but dry. However It looked like the fuel filter was original after 244K miles. It was replaced. However, I found more problems... On a hunch, I pulled the valve cover off again, in addition to a couple sticky valves, a spring retainer on another, that was thought to be good, snapped in half. I think I will pull the head and go from there, unless someone has a better idea. I have not yet done a compression test.

Last edited by nktidwel; 05-21-2014 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:40 AM   #5
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I would do a compression test asap and see if the engine is even worth this effort it has high miles and with so many CB7's rusted out or wrecked plus all the other engines that can be swapped in why waste your time on a old beat up paper weight?
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:33 AM   #6
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I would do a compression test asap and see if the engine is even worth this effort it has high miles and with so many CB7's rusted out or wrecked plus all the other engines that can be swapped in why waste your time on a old beat up paper weight?
The compression test will show bad results with already known bad valves.
That's why you need to do a leak down test.

I'd swap a whole engine, (Or if you don't mind/can recover the cost if ther is further problems) put a 2nd hand head on it.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:27 AM   #7
Mishakol129
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Mishakol129 may have said something they shouldn't have...
chipped valves in two of the cylinders, that's my guess.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:16 PM   #8
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Cylinder 4... Had one split spring retainer and 1 snapped valve on the exhaust side. Lots of carbon build up on the valves, stems, and pistons.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:58 PM   #9
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not to promote the company i work for but if you want to do a new complete head it would cost around 419.00 at any advance auto parts.
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:27 AM   #10
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I would love one, however my employment is sporadic at the moment. Otherwise I would just go have my head redone or swap a k motor in.
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Old 05-25-2014, 06:14 PM   #11
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Smile

Runs awesome now! Ended replacing 1 bad exhaust valve, went through the other valves and polished as needed. Cleaned the guides. Cleaned everything I could clean with a brass brush, and some degreaser. While it was apart, I noticed a found an open vaccum port, obviously coreected that small issue. Installednthe head, connected the lines, etc. Cranked it up, it finally is quiet (been loud since march). Found an oil leak on the driver side. Pretty sure its the pan gasket. Still need to reconnect alternator and ps pump and brackets. Idle seems stable, what rpm should it be? Its around 1400-1500 rpm right now.
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Old 05-25-2014, 06:25 PM   #12
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750-800 ish rpm
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Old 05-25-2014, 06:29 PM   #13
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rpm after it comes up to temp should be 650-750 rpm

Last edited by marvin75; 05-25-2014 at 06:30 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:17 PM   #14
nktidwel
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Will attempt to correct it after I get an oil pan gasket.
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:28 PM   #15
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The leak I mentioned is either the crank seal or balance shaft seal...
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Old 06-09-2014, 07:17 PM   #16
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And Pan gasket.... replaced the seal yesterday. Cranked it up... now it runs like crap. 2 of the new spark plugs are black (cylinders 2 &3). It also started smoking (blue) out the tailpipe. This is new. Maybe the timing is off or wires got mixed up? What would cause the smoke all of the sudden?
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Old 06-09-2014, 07:19 PM   #17
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I forgot... I think it's running a little rich.. how do I correct it?
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Old 06-12-2014, 07:25 PM   #18
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Timing was the issue. Developed a water leak. Still need to replace the pan gasket.
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