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Upper Control Arms hitting, cut a hole?

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    #31
    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
    When the camber is adjusted, I believe the arm is allowed to sit a bit lower, and it doesn't travel enough to hit.
    Accordtunerx, the founder of this site, discovered that running -1 degree of camber with Neuspeed Race springs (2.2" drop in the front) resulted in no contact.
    at 0 degrees pretty much only had contact on extreme dips at a slow speed, a solid wack. with regular ubj's i have -2.65 natural camber (~2.25" drop)..i had to switch back; the SPC's were feeling "floaty" at highway speeds.They had maybe 25k miles on them and about 50 hits

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      #32
      you can try filling in the two pieces with gap filling foam and then all weather caulking to seal up the cracks.

      After my anchor type camber kits dug into where my control arm bolts to and tore the sheet metal away, i took it to a fab shop and he cut a custom piece to restore the fatigued and cracked metal. I painted it after that and it's been good since for about 7 years now.

      They're professionals for a reason and would know the best way to cover this up/make an access panel. The guy only charged me about an hour's worth of labor so roughly 60 bucks to cut, and weld that piece in the D/S front, rear control arm hole.

      member's ride thread
      93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
      99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
      91 Accord SE 176k
      97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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        #33
        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
        When the camber is adjusted, I believe the arm is allowed to sit a bit lower, and it doesn't travel enough to hit.
        Accordtunerx, the founder of this site, discovered that running -1 degree of camber with Neuspeed Race springs (2.2" drop in the front) resulted in no contact.
        also ditching a balljoint kit for an anchor bolt kit will give you back whatever you lost from the increased height of the balljoint. And when you're lowering a car a significant amount every little bit counts. I've never had any banging issues, and have been pretty dang low (tucking tire on 17s).

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          #34
          Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Post
          you can try filling in the two pieces with gap filling foam and then all weather caulking to seal up the cracks.

          After my anchor type camber kits dug into where my control arm bolts to and tore the sheet metal away, i took it to a fab shop and he cut a custom piece to restore the fatigued and cracked metal. I painted it after that and it's been good since for about 7 years now.

          They're professionals for a reason and would know the best way to cover this up/make an access panel. The guy only charged me about an hour's worth of labor so roughly 60 bucks to cut, and weld that piece in the D/S front, rear control arm hole.
          Why are you in Canton, MI?
          http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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            #35
            Can't believe all the body filler suggestions here for the gap between layers, bleck.

            Heat up the bottom layer (doesn't take a lot) and body hammer it up against the top layer, and then weld the perimeter. Weld on a cap if wanted, then follow with proper prep/primer, etc.
            Originally posted by sweet91accord
            if aredy time i need to put something in cb7tuner. you guy need to me a smart ass about and bust on my spelling,gramar and shit like that in so sorry.

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              #36
              Originally posted by foamypirate View Post
              Can't believe all the body filler suggestions here for the gap between layers, bleck.

              Heat up the bottom layer (doesn't take a lot) and body hammer it up against the top layer, and then weld the perimeter. Weld on a cap if wanted, then follow with proper prep/primer, etc.
              Good idea and the metal is soft but the pieces are the same length. He would have to cut the top by 1/4" and then bend the bottom up over it. Tricky but easy to do with a dremel and pliers. Heat if needed. Good idea. Not that this would make it water tight but still a good idea.

              Actually isn't there a tool to "crimp" metal together? Like a seal maker....

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                #37
                My suggestion of piping in a sealant was made with the knowledge that I was making it to a 17 year old that has already opted to ignore advice on the right way to do things in favor of the cheaper, easier way. He can't weld, and the cost to weld up those holes would probably be prohibitive.
                I do agree that it's the best way to do it, though.






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                  #38
                  Originally posted by SSMAccord View Post
                  Why are you in Canton, MI?
                  I moved to MI for a job

                  member's ride thread
                  93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
                  99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
                  91 Accord SE 176k
                  97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                    My suggestion of piping in a sealant was made with the knowledge that I was making it to a 17 year old that has already opted to ignore advice on the right way to do things in favor of the cheaper, easier way. He can't weld, and the cost to weld up those holes would probably be prohibitive.
                    I do agree that it's the best way to do it, though.
                    I do see your point. Better to do something than nothing.
                    Originally posted by sweet91accord
                    if aredy time i need to put something in cb7tuner. you guy need to me a smart ass about and bust on my spelling,gramar and shit like that in so sorry.

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                      #40
                      I'm faster then a prius

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